20 Most Recent 2006 Yamaha V Star Classic - Page 8 Questions & Answers

Could be the kick stand switch. Will turn off the bike if you put it in gear with the stand down. Your kick stand switch may be stuck or just bad.

Replace your right switch assembly on the handle bar. Your starter button is dirty or broken and the only way to replace it is to replace the assembly. Your starter button is a two position switch that both turns off the headlight to direct more power to the starter and activates your starter solenoid. Either the right switch assembly has become unplugged from the harness inside the head light bucket or a broken power wire is causing the system to not work. But most likely a dirty or broken starter button is the cause of your problems.

Exactly which year and model of Yamaha was not mentioned. However, the web site below has over 1000 service manuals available for free download. Just go to the site and check to see if they have the manual you need. Please rate my answer. Thanks!
www.carlsalter.com/motorcycle-manuals.asp

Welcome to Fixya
Check/test the wires going to the driving lights using a voltmeter. see if you are getting current. If there's a current then you need to replace the bulb.
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It has an intake valve out of adjustment. Adjusting the valves is part of normal maintanance, usually after the first 1000 mi and then every 10,000 or so. Can be accomplished with the factory repair manual fairly easy if it has adjustable rocker arms, not so easy if the valve lash requires shims for adjustment. If it requires shims that involves removing the cams, but still can be accomplished with few special tools and following the repair manual. Good luck!

it sounds like you need a new shock absorber. there is also an adjuster on most shocks. theres a small coil spring around the shock. underneath the spring is a piece that resembles stairs but it has spots for the post on the shock to set in. if you look at the rear shock you will see it. if you rotate it to the higher adjustment you should get a slightly stiffer shock as a result. there is also a type of shock that has threads on it. if you tighten the retaining nut that holds the coil on it should get stiffer. if that doesn't help you probably need to buy a new one.

Idle jets are pluged up take off carbs and clean jets there are two jets in each carb put back together put some sea foam in gas tank It is a cleaner Get it at auto parts store Good luck MOPAR KENNY

Follow the link, part # 4 is your idle adjustment screw. It is located under the carbs.http://www.mrcycles.com/fiche_image_popup.asp?fveh=28600&section=1050744&year=2009&make=YAMAHA&category=Motorcycles&dc=792&name=CARBURETOR

G'day, you are right on the money. Yes there is a gasket here. It is the clutch cover gasket.Order a new one & change it & you should be right. Watch for any stripped threads on the cover screws. It's not uncommon for the alloy thread from the case to "pull out".I loosen the screws first,then try tighten them to make sure all is ok.Then I loosen again & remove the cover. If you do have a pulled thread, then the repair is to install a helicoil or recoil insert. You can get these from a tool or engineering shop.NEVER use screwdrivers to pry off the cover-you will damage the mating surface. When you have the cover off, remove ALL old gasket & check the mating surfaces for damage.You don't have to use any sealant on the new gasket IF the surfaces are OK.If you must use sealant use it spareingly.
Good luck & just let me know if you have any problems.
Kind regards Andrew Porrelli.

Two different techniques may help you get the air out of your front brake line.
First, instead of the traditional "pump and bleed" technique, borrow or buy a brake bleeding gun. Mity-Vac is the best-known manufacturer of these vacuum pumps, but you can buy a nice brass pump, with all its accessories, from Harbor Freight Tools for $15-20 when it goes on sale (about half the price of a MityVac). With a vacuum pump, you'd hook it up to the bleed screw at the caliper and gently pump. The suction will pull air and fluid out of the caliper, drawing down whatever is in your brake line--that's where the persistent air bubbles are most likely located. Keep the fluid reservoir open and keep adding fluid as the level gets drawn down--don't let the lines **** in more air, or you'll just have to keep doing this procedure over and over to get those out, too. You may have to pull through a fair amount of fluid to get air bubbles out of the brake line, if they're located relatively far away from the caliper. Eventually, you'll start pulling nothing but brake fluid, and you can close the bleeder valve, close up the brake fluid reservoir at the handlebar, and see if you now have brakes.
A second technique that was recommended to me for persistent air bubbles is to squeeze the brake lever and use a bungee cord or some other device to keep it depressed overnight. This opens up the master cylinder and lets some air rise up into the reservoir. I have not found that this technique works very well when you have a lot of air in the system, but it's been useful when I have mushy brakes that aren't working to their full capacity.

explain please.

Sounds more like the clutch cable might not be adjusted properly

Dirty jets and passageways can cause this. Also if the carb needs readjusted, it could happen. Has the bike been setting for a length of time over two or three weeks? If so, I recommend putting 1/2 can SeaFoam in the fuel tank and ride it an hour or two and if it improves, dirty carb is/was the problem. If not, the carb needs readjusted.

have you checked for prpoper oil level in oil reservior.if its ok den you shuld remove air from cylinder, bleeding nipple is provided at calliper, the time you open the bleeding nipple oils comes out, same time you must keep feeling oil in oil reservior .
and it gots its pressure after some use

You are dealing with a stuck float, a stuck float needle, or a worn/bad float needle. Tap on the bowl of the carburetor with the plastic end of a screw driver. This may unstick the float then, a fuel system cleaner like Chevron Techron can be put into the gas gas to clean up any varnish causing the issues. If this does not fix the problem you will have to take the carburetor off , clean , and inspect the needle and float.

Check the link

There must be a short perhaps caused by the wiring to anything on that circuit touching earth. Only a good inspection of the wiring for the tail lights and the instruments will find it and concentrating on the areas where th wiring bends like around the steering head might find it faster.-------- Also check the tail light fuse, if its causing the short.Remove the fuse and clean it and re- fit it. Fuse is in the box under the left ram air cover. Should be labeled "Signals" on the diagram on the fuse box cover, in most of the Yamaha motor cycles.You will have to test for voltage when brake is applied.If the tail light shows voltage,there is power.If no voltage, then there is short.The tail light bulb, at the back of bulb, there will be a connector from where, you will have to follow the wire till the front wiring harness.If there is short, the wires will show voltage, even without depressing brake and turning the bike ON.The shorted wires must be getting power directly from battery, as per that , you can re-wire the tail light.-------- You can run additional wire from tail light bulb socket to main wiring harness and see, if tail light works properly.If its works, that means old wiring is causing the short and wirings needs to be rebuild.But if tail light not working with new wiring too, then its ground issue, the connections are getting in contact and causing the short.-------- As per that you can start troubleshooting.---------- this should help.Thanks.Helpmech.

it has 4.3 gallon fuel tank if you want to know more about this bike.....
http://www.motorcyclecruiser.com/roadtests/yamaha_v_star_1100_custom/index.html

you mean rings or ring ? there are 2 of them..

anywaym use a hammer and pliers and fit it back into place. then use a spanner wrench to adjust the preload ring(s).

tighten it up and see if it holds, if not replace it.

Hi,,,id definately say its your starter(not enginge)