2006 Yamaha YZF-R1 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Was it connected before? Many manufacturers add plugs which aren't used on a particular model but are used on others. If it was in use, It would be in reach of the part you are holding. They are often taped into the harness tightly. https://kojaycat.co.uk/epages/950000457.mobile/en_GB/;ClassicView=1?ObjectPath=/Shops/950000457/Products/R1-4C8-MAINLOOM https://www.google.com/search?q=yamaha+r1+2006+ignition+wiring ..

load test the battery. not just check for voltage. a battery can have 12vdc but no amperage.

Let the throttle off just a little bit to allow the shift lever to slide out of gear and then raise the engine rpm about two hundred rpm to match the next lower gear. If you get the rpms matched, the shift lever will slide smoothly into the next lower gear.

You need a puller tool. Remove the bolt holding this unit onto the crankshaft and then install the puller

replace the sensor in the left snorquel Fault code No. 22 Symptom Air temperature sensor: open or short circuit detected. Diagnostic code No. 05 Air temperature sensor Orde r Item/components and probable cause Check or maintenance job Reinstatement method 1 Connections ? Air temperature sensor coupler ? Main wire harness ECU coupler ? Check the coupler for any pins that may have pulled out. ? Check the locking condition of the coupler. ? If there is a malfunction, repair it and connect the coupler securely. Reinstated automatically if a normal signal is received. 2 Open or short circuit in wire harness. ? Repair or replace if there is an open or short circuit. ? Between air temperature sensor coupler and ECU coupler. (Brown/White?Brown/White) (Black/Blue?Black/Blue) 3 Defective air temperature sensor. ? Execute the diagnostic mode. (Code No.05) ? Replace if defective. Refer to "CHECKING THE INTAKE AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR" on page 8-91.

Best give it to a mechanic as it's too complicated for an amateur, plus if the timing chain broke the probability is that that you have a nightmare inside that poor engine, and every moving part is probably twisted.

tdc number 1 cyl and there should be a mark on ignition pickup that lines up , cams should have marks on each cog and all valves on number 1 cyl should be closed then you can put chain on

There are 2 possible causes here. Either there is a voltage drain from something on the bike or the battery is discharging on it\'s own accord. If it is a wet battery (ie non gel type) often when it is new and first acid filled some people make the mistake of quick charging them straight after filling. What then happens is the battery only gets a surface charge, so it will charge up to ie; 12.8 volts fully charged but have no cranking amps. Secret is to fill the new battery with acid then let it sit for an hour to get full penetration of the plates then slow charge it for 4 to 5 hours to get good battery performance and life.

The error code 17 means you have a malfunctioning EXUP exhaust valve, or EXUP servo motor. It could be that your servo motor has fried, could be that some wires got loose, or it could be that your exhaust valve just needs a good cleaning and lubricating, if it's had a hard life.

sounds like you need to use better fuel higher octane

Exhaust valve actuator cables out of adjustment.

check connection from battery live to relay, from relay to starter. cross the 2 bolts on relay (will spark) does this turn the engine, if so the starter button to relay is faulty or the relay is faulty

Usually the first thing to do in situations like this is to give the bike a good service. Especially the filters.

Check for injector pulse, if not present trace wiring/plugs etc. if you have a pulse then has to be a mechanical issue. Check timing , compression .

Check the connectors and then check for an output voltage at the switch.

The clutchs start to stick together after they have been sitting for a while. Most of the time, you can hold the brake and clutch while starting, and they will break loose. If not, you'll have to remove the clutch cover and seperate the clutch discs, then put them back in.

Get a multimeter and test the battery voltage right at the posts...if its fully charged you should see 12.6 V....now test while trying to crank....if battery voltage remains high11.5 V...but you get the clicks...you have a bad connection....thoroughly clean the battery cables and make sure they are secure.

Sounds like a fuel supply issue. When you say you "cleared the throttle body" did you strip the injectors, check fuel filter etc? Also check temperatures of your header pipes, excessivley low temperature on one header will indicate which cylinder(s) have a problem. Are there any fault codes flashing on your FI light?

It could be a few things. First thing is to check the connection on your battery. Are the cables on securely and ground wire attatched? Check the fuses, make sure none of them are burnt out or loose. Check the wiring harness to make sure none of the connections vibrated loose. If all this checks out then you may have to start checking your altenator, coil, fire box etc.

It's likely the voltage regulator. This bike is not my specialty but I do have several friends and aquaintences that have had problems with the voltage regulators on this bike. Google it and see what you can find - it's a very common issue.