20 Most Recent 2006 Yamaha Road Star Silverado - Page 3 Questions & Answers

The job is relatively easy: the control module goes on the wire to the rear brake light - you just cut it off then you insert the module in there; on top of that you will have to draw another wire from the fusebox to power it.
The location and color of the brake wire depends on what model, series of the bike and place of manufacturing. But it's easy to identify it: you just open the rear lights module and you take a look at which wire plugs in the brake bulb. In your case it should be a brown-red wire going under the seat , verify it before doing anything.
All of this requires at least a basic experience in car or moto electrics - if you don't know how to test a wire and how to connect it to a fuse box you shouldn't do the job - the risk of frying something by accident is too great.

I assuming this Yamaha is a off road or road trail as the road Yamaha's are pretty good regarding engine noise - any how the off roaders are renowned for engine tap if is just quiet tapping that is regular with speed of engine and not on and off again worse at high or low speeds then would not be to concerned.
if it is irregular and loud and worse at high or low speed stop riding and get checked for sure!

just make sure it good and tight. torque specs are more for surfaces that have gaskets or something you dont want over tightened. I use a 3/8 impact and just run it down tight.

8 flashes is a fuel sender fault....check your connections to the sender, pinched wires etc
If no success....you will need to find the test procedure for your model....usually involves a resistance check on the disconnected sender wires.

A warped brake disk or loose disk can cause a shimmy or "pulsing" in the front wheel. Check by gently applying the front brake. Feel a pulse or hear the pads repeatedly rub then release? Obviously, the disk run-out can be checked with a dial gauge but most owners don't have one. Ignore the brakes for a moment and check the wheel, wheel cylinder and disk mountings. Are they tight? Are the wheel bearings solid, does the wheel have lateral play? Does the steering stem have any movement, i.e. bad or loose stem bearings? Low pads should not cause your problem. Please rate my answer. Thanks!

Try pushing down on front of seat to try and free the latch...then lift up.

You don't say which model. Does your bike has an accessory plug receptacle so you can wire up a plug to a battery and backfeed? I suspect there is a provision for opening the seat in the event of a dead battery and the answer is in the manual or at the dealer.

If all the other electrical systems are working, then you probably introduced a fault when you changed the battery. It is probably something as simple as the battery connections not being tight enough. If you didn't quite tighten them enough they may have shaken loose. The other electrical systems which draw far less current will tollerate a poor connection, the starter draws 20 times the curent of the headlight etc and it will require a good solid connection. Check the connections to the battery, solenoid and starter motor

Try finding/checking the starter relay, service manual or your local dealer should help!!

I expect you will find the insulation has broken down on that wire. Sometimes on a corner or a tywrap on the frame but usually on the exit from the gearbox.
Hope you find it easily. Just wiggle the wires when not in neutral and no engine of course!

Here is the information on your bike.

VIN: JYAVP17E45A011556

World region: Asia
Manufactured in: Japan
Year: 2005
Make: Yamaha
Model: XV1700A
Body style: Road / Street
Drive type: RWD
Cylinders: 2 Cylinders

You will find it under the side cover on the left side of motorcycle (as you are sitting on it)

http://www.eserviceinfo.com/index.php?what=search2&searchstring=yamaha

If they replaced the jets, did they replace them with the correct size? First off, the metering jets do not wear. Ethanol does not wear jets. If they replaced them, they replaced them to change the mixture. I would have them replace the jets with the original jets. Now, if something is going to wear, it the "needle jet" which isn't really a metering jet. It's the jet that the needle slides in when the slide in the carb goes up and down. It will wear due to the rubbing of the needle against the inside of the jet towards the engine side of the jet. Again, someone it telling you a story. Ethanol will not wear a brass jet. They changed the jet to change the fuel air mixture and now it's not right.

To find out which way it's wrong, try taking the air filter out of the air box and ride the bike at the speeds you have the problem. If the problem gets worse, you are jetted too lean. If he problem gets less severe, you're jetted too rich. By removing the air filter, you're allowing more air to get into the carb leaning the mixture. Now, since at this speed you are not a Wide Open Throttle, you're still running on the needle in the mid-range of the RPM range. You can lean the mixture by lowering the needle and richen the mixture by raising the needle.

What you need to do is take the bike to someone with an Exhaust Gas Analyzer and a Dyno. They should be able to put the load on the bike exactly like it's on the road and check your fuel air mixture at any given RPM. This will tell them if you're too rich or too lean and the RPM range will tell them which jet to change or the needle position to change.

Ethanol does not wear brass jets. The shop screwed up the mixture on your bike, that plain and simple.

Good Luck
Steve

Your BEST and cheapest bet is to go to a local parts house e.g. Autozone, Advanced Auto, O;Reilly's, or Pepeboys. Ask for the HAYBES SERVICE MANUAL for your truck. It costs about $20.00 and should have everything that the average guy needs to make minor repairs to their stuff. Good Luck, thanks for allowing FixYa.com to help get you going! Rate as required, Again, Thank You.

I will require pictures. You are not clear at all - is the hose missing? Stolen? lost ? Removed? Custom run from the tank to the carbs?

You are making a statement more than asking a question. \
Please re - ask your question and describe the problem in detail.

This will be when we can help you further.
Sorry for the inconvenience.

you will need to contact the original dealer of this bike so they can check that number with what they have on file. there might just be a clitch or the thing your trying to enter it into may just not be able to recknize it or you have copyed the number wrong. i would recheck the #. there is never a "o" but always "0" (zero's)

Hi there,

Please discribe your problem in details. so i can help you.

Thanks

1if u can open your tank by removing the fuel then the pipe
u just check at your tank below,there will be small electrical wire stick to a sensor and at your fuel tank once u got the fuel sensor open it there is a float with lever.open gently without damaging the float and fuel seals for the sensor

check the fuse pos under the panel