Rattling instrument cluster on gas tank.

it is under the gauge cluster on the tank... the chrome cluster is held on with allen and philips screws. There are two screws at the front of the tank, then the rest are under the filler cover... you have to take the gas cap off, remove those three screws around the filler tube, then two more Allen screws up from the filler tank...not the two in the center, but the two outer ones...once you have the cluster unscrewed, lift it up enough that you can unplug it and set it to the side...the air filter is up near the handle bars...you will see it...I think it is held in with screws as well.

My LM30 worked OK for a while, then the zig-zag chalk line feature stopped working, and finally it would not spin for more than a second for either rotate setting, and got the flashing lights thing. Of course tried replacing batteries to no avail. So the meticulous experimenter in me started on a mission to find out why it stopped working.

If my findings are the only reason this unit gives this error, the company should be ashamed of itself charging so much for such a simple repair.

Check these two things if you get the no spin/flashing lights problem.

Test one: Gently holding the rotating head, lift up a bit. If there is a little up/down movement when you lift on it, go to test two.
Test two: Holding the unit upside down, try running through the functions. If all functions work, the repair is easy and inexpensive/free.

The problem is there needs to be no axial shaft slop for the unit to work, and that slop is removed with a thin wave washer under the spinning head. That washer get's weak over time, and I think there is a sensor on the board that makes sure the drive pulley doesn't drop too far down, which triggers the shutdown.

Tools needed:
Phillips screwdriver
Small phillips screwdriver
1.5mm allen key
Retaining ring pliers

The fix:
1) Remove batteries and the screws from the top of the spinning head, and remove the cover.
2) Remove three screws from the bottom of the LM30 holding the yellow case on.
3) Carefully lift off the case. The control board has a slide pin connection to join it to the rest of the internals. It has a slight resistance to being removed, but if you feel a higher resistance, the control board is probably snagging on the drive motor inside. Squeezing the case sides gives you a little more clearance. Take your time getting it off.
4) Remove a 1.5mm allen head jam screw from the prism head, and carefully slide the prism off the shaft (gently prying up with a screwdriver)
5) With retaining ring pliers, remove the retaining ring.
6) Remove the wave washer. You can find a replacement or simply bend the existing one to make it a bit "wavier". Don't go crazy, just bend it slightly more than it is.
7) Support the shaft with a screwdriver inserted under the drive pulley
8) Replace the wave washer on the shaft.
9) Replace the retaining ring
10) Temporarily remove screwdriver to check that there is no up/down slop in shaft. If there is, you need to bend the washer a little more.
11) Reinsert screwdriver for support.
12) Carefully replace prism and reinstall the allen screw
13) Remove screwdriver providing shaft support
14) Carefully replace yellow cover, assuring slide connectors line up on the control board, and replace three screws
15) Replace prism cap and screws.
16) Replace batteries and test functions.

-Rod Reidnauer (meticulous experimenter)

Their is a flat head screw on the callipar. Unscrew it first. Inside of the flathead screw is an allen wrench nut. Break the allen wrench nut loose. Now unscrew the two bolts that hold the calipar in place. Remove them completely. Slide the calipar off from the disc. Finishing unscrewing the allen head nut that we talked about earlier. Pull it all the way out. Remove the shoes unless they fall out.. Easy to take out.. Blow off the calipar. Replace the shoes. Now put that Allen head screw back in that holds the shoes in place. No need to tighten it yet. Just snug. Spread the shoes apart by using a screwdriver being careful not to damage the pads. Large screwdriver. Slide the calipars over the disc and now put some locktight onto those two mounting bolts for the calipars. Tighten to about 40 lbs. Now tighten the allen set screw that holds the shoes in place. Replace the flattip screw that covers the allen head. Use a impact driver to tighten by hitting it once. Pull on break handle about 4 times to set the shoes to the disc. Do this before you start your bike.. You have brakes.. It was easy.. Way to go!!!

The battery is located under the seat in a plastic looking engine case. You must first remove all the allen head screws from the plastic body. you also have two 10mm nuts that go through the frame in the back end remove those. lift the body to the side and you will see three holes in the side of the battery case. There are three phillips head screws. The case seperates and two batteries are held in with two allen head bolts and a metal strap.

Remove the chrome bezel around the speedo (3 allen head screws). Raise it up and check that the electrical connections are seated at the front. You will see them when you raise up the chrome panel.

Hope this helps.