Suzuki Motorcycles - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support


Hi, Allan before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
1. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
2. To check the regulator unplug it from the stator. Take a test light and clip it to the negative terminal of the battery and then touch first one pin and then the other on the plug that goes to the regulator. If you get even the slightest amount of light from the test light the regulator is toast.
To do this with a meter: black lead to battery ground, red lead to each pin on the plug, start with the voltage scale higher than 12vdc and move voltage scale down in steps for each pin. Any voltage is a bad regulator.
3. On the other part of the disconnected regulator plug. Set the multimeter for Ohms x1 scale and measure for resistance across the pins of the stator. You should read something around 0.1 to 0.2 ohms for a 32 amp system.
4. Then check for continuity between each pin on the plug and frame/engine ground. The meter needle should not move (infinite resistance)(digitals will show infinite resistance) if the meter needle does move (indicating continuity)(digitals will show some resistance), recheck very carefully. If the meter still shows continuity to ground the stator is shorted (bad).
5. Set the meter to read A/C volts higher than 30 volts (the scale setting for voltage should always be higher than the highest voltage you expect or you may fry the meter). Start the bike, and measure from one pin to the other on the plug (DO NOT cross the multimeter probes! - touch them to each other). You should read roughly 16-20 vac per 1,000 rpm.
6. If the battery was good under load test, if the stator is NOT shorted to ground, and the stator is putting out A/C voltage, then the regulator is bad (most likely even if passed step 2)
For more information about your question and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.gixxer.com/threads/battery-not-charging.552449/#post-7752073
https://www.gsxr.com/threads/gsxr-charging-system-101.225306/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PevgFfi_oaY
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1212456/Suzuki-Gsr750.html
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/813897/Suzuki-Gsx-R750.html
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-suzuki
http://mybikemanuals.com/suzuki/

Suzuki... | Answered 2 hours ago


Hi, Stacy you need to repost your question under the ATV category, not Motorcycles. Thanks, Gregg

Suzuki... | Answered Yesterday


Hi, Richard and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
2. Failed alternator/generator and or voltage regulator.
3. Loose or corroded battery terminals and or cables especially the "NEGATIVE" cable, look for loose, corroded, or broken connectors inside the cable harness at "BOTH" ends.
4. A failed main circuit breaker or ignition switch, check for loose connections and continuity.
5. Failed system and or ignition relay, check for continuity.
6. Failed ignition coil, stator, magneto, ignition/electronic module.
7. Failed CKP, CPS, CMP, MAP, TPS, or BAS sensor, corroded, loose or broken wire connector pins/sockets.
8. Throttle cables and or idle speed improperly adjusted hot idle speed should be 950 RPM to 1000 RPM.
9. Faulty neutral, side stand or clutch lever safety switch.
10. Faulty or corroded kill switch.
11. Accelerator pump damaged or not working.
12. Water or dirt in the fuel system, carburetor or filter.
13. Restricted, blocked or kinked fuel line.
14. Fuel tank empty.
15. The gas cap is not venting properly or fuel tank venting system blocked, loosen the gas cap and go for a test ride.
16. A failed fuel pump, pressure regulator and or fuel injectors.
17. Vacuum line from the intake manifold to petcock broken, cracked, or not attached, carburetor vent line plugged.
18. Needle and seat stuck closed in the float bowl.
19. Petcock clogged or damaged.
20. Lean angle switch is faulty or needs adjustment.
21. Catastrophic engine failure, perform a compression test.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1321428000
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8jPjq_aAy-8
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1165889/Suzuki-Ls650-Savage.html
https://www.partsfish.com/oem-parts-for-suzuki
http://www.savageriders.com/verslagen/transfer/2002_LS650P_Owners_Manual.pdf

Suzuki... | Answered Yesterday


Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Low coolant level.
2. Restricted radiator airflow.
3. Faulty thermostat.
4. Coolant pump or fans inoperative.
5. Vent hose crimped.
6. The air in the coolant and needs bleeding.
7. Engine idling too long or bike moving too slow.
8. Coolant too old needs to be replaced.
9. Faulty temperature sensor, wiring or connector.
10. Radiator veins clogged or corroded needs repair
11. Cooling system leak.
12. Ignition timing retarded.
13. Spark plug heat range too high.
14. Faulty radiator cap.
15. Carburetor jetted too lean.
16. Damaged top end.
17. Blown head gasket.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
http://forums.13x.com/index.php?threads/2006-gsxr600-overheating.297926/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_e-JWfzeKiA
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/896122/Suzuki-Gsx-R600.html
https://www.partsfish.com/oem-parts-for-suzuki
http://mybikemanuals.com/suzuki/

2006 Suzuki... | Answered Yesterday


Hi, Paul for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can not find the best tool you ever bought for your Suzuki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
http://forums.banditalley.net/general-mechanical-technical/starter-motor-replacement/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xYhEz6uVDDM
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/826775/Suzuki-Gsf1250.html
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-suzuki
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1058960/Suzuki-Gsx1250fa.html

Suzuki... | Answered on Jan 12, 2020


Hi, William the answer is "NO" for this scenario you will need your service, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Honda, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
how to sync throttle bodies
synchronizing throttle bodies Suzuki GSX Motorcycle Forums Gixxer com
Suzuki GSX R1000 Service Manual
OEM parts for Suzuki
Suzuki GSX R1000 Owner Manual

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

2006 Suzuki... | Answered on Jan 12, 2020


Hi, John for more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
7 tricks to get broken key out yourself any lock or key
How to Remove Broken Key
Suzuki VL1500 Service Manual
https://www.partsfish.com/oem-parts-for-suzuki
http://mybikemanuals.com/suzuki

2000 Suzuki VL... | Answered on Jan 05, 2020


Hi, Mkfld02 you to repost your question in the ATV category, not Motorcycles, Thanks Gregg

Suzuki... | Answered on Dec 25, 2019


suggest you get a manual and replace it

Suzuki... | Answered on Dec 20, 2019


Hole in the float. It fills with gas, sinks and fails to stop the fuel flow

1995 Suzuki VS... | Answered on Dec 18, 2019


The clutch lever is pulled in, moving the cable attached to the clutch release arm down on the clutch cover, it in turn rotates a clutch release cam shaft in the cover that is just outboard of the clutch.. On that vertical shaft cam shaft is a cut out engagement part of clutch.----------

Remove the screws holding in the clutch springs. You should be able to find them pretty easily once the cover is removed, they'll likely be in a star pattern.--------

Once all the new disks are in, replace the side cover and screw in the new clutch springs one at a time, tightening the screws just until they seat.Tighten the spring screws with your hex wrench one at a time, in a criss-cross pattern to ensure even tightening and prevent warping of the components. Tighten each one a little at a time until they are as tight as they were when you removed them.

--------

As you mentioned you replaced the clutch cable The nut and bolt through the pivot gets extremely tight and causes the lever to bind. Loosen nut and bolt slightly and that should help.

Fully remove the nut and bolt add some silicone grease to the pivot points and re-install the nut and bolt. Then check.--------
Recheck the clutch cable installation, some disks or parts are not aligned properly or clutch lever bolt nut are getting too tight.-------- Getting this checked will help.Thanks.Helpmech.

Suzuki GZ 250... | Answered on Dec 15, 2019


_1929.jpg
I was able to get the fingertip pad out of the liftgate by removing the two screws which hold it to the body of the liftgate. Once you detach the clip for the wiring harness, the rubber pad comes right out. Remove all 5 or 6 of the little screws to expose the inner workings. I then just used to solder to join the corroded parts which fell off long ago and it works fine. Here's a lousy picture! 2008 SUZUKI XL7 LIFTGATE

2008 Suzuki... | Answered on Nov 25, 2019


Hi, Thass64 before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
1. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
2. To check the regulator unplug it from the stator. Take a test light and clip it to the negative terminal of the battery and then touch first one pin and then the other on the plug that goes to the regulator. If you get even the slightest amount of light from the test light the regulator is toast.
To do this with a meter: black lead to battery ground, red lead to each pin on the plug, start with the voltage scale higher than 12vdc and move voltage scale down in steps for each pin. Any voltage is a bad regulator.
3. On the other part of the disconnected regulator plug. Set the multimeter for Ohms x1 scale and measure for resistance across the pins of the stator. You should read something around 0.1 to 0.2 ohms for a 32 amp system.
4. Then check for continuity between each pin on the plug and frame/engine ground. The meter needle should not move (infinite resistance)(digitals will show infinite resistance) if the meter needle does move (indicating continuity)(digitals will show some resistance), recheck very carefully. If the meter still shows continuity to ground the stator is shorted (bad).
5. Set the meter to read A/C volts higher than 30 volts (the scale setting for voltage should always be higher than the highest voltage you expect or you may fry the meter). Start the bike, and measure from one pin to the other on the plug (DO NOT cross the multimeter probes! - touch them to each other). You should read roughly 16-20 vac per 1,000 rpm.
6. If the battery was good under load test, if the stator is NOT shorted to ground, and the stator is putting out A/C voltage, then the regulator is bad (most likely even if passed step 2)
For more information about your question and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
How to Fully Troubleshoot Your Motorcycles Charging System MotorcycleMD
HOW TO CHECK YOUR CHARGING SYSTEM and CHANGING the STATOR and REGULATOR...
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/816746/Suzuki-Vs700-1985.html#product-Intruder%20VS
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-suzuki
http://mybikemanuals.com/suzuki

1995 Suzuki VS... | Answered on Nov 14, 2019


Hi, Monica and the usual suspects are:
1. Wheels and or tires worn or damaged.
2. Engine/transmission/vehicle not aligned properly.
3. Primary chain is badly worn or links too tight as a result of insufficient lubrication or misalignment.
4. Engine to transmission mounting bolts loose.
5. Upper engine mounting bracket loose.
6. Ignition timing incorrect due to a poorly tuned engine.
7. Internal engine problem flywheels have shifted.
8. Broken frame.
9. Stabilizer links worn or loose.
10. Rubber mounts loose or worn.
11. Rear fork pivot shaft nuts loose.
12. Front engine mounting bolts loose.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
C90 front end wobble at 40 mph
Honda warranty complaint Be sure to take tube of KY
Suzuki VL1500 Service Manual
OEM parts for Suzuki
Suzuki Intruder VL1500B Owner Manual

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

Suzuki Boulevard... | Answered on Nov 13, 2019


Hi, Jesse before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
1. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
2. To check the regulator unplug it from the stator. Take a test light and clip it to the negative terminal of the battery and then touch first one pin and then the other on the plug that goes to the regulator. If you get even the slightest amount of light from the test light the regulator is toast.
To do this with a meter: black lead to battery ground, red lead to each pin on the plug, start with the voltage scale higher than 12vdc and move voltage scale down in steps for each pin. Any voltage is a bad regulator.
3. On the other part of the disconnected regulator plug. Set the multimeter for Ohms x1 scale and measure for resistance across the pins of the stator. You should read something around 0.1 to 0.2 ohms for a 32 amp system.
4. Then check for continuity between each pin on the plug and frame/engine ground. The meter needle should not move (infinite resistance)(digitals will show infinite resistance) if the meter needle does move (indicating continuity)(digitals will show some resistance), recheck very carefully. If the meter still shows continuity to ground the stator is shorted (bad).
5. Set the meter to read A/C volts higher than 30 volts (the scale setting for voltage should always be higher than the highest voltage you expect or you may fry the meter). Start the bike, and measure from one pin to the other on the plug (DO NOT cross the multimeter probes! - touch them to each other). You should read roughly 16-20 vac per 1,000 rpm.
6. If the battery was good under load test, if the stator is NOT shorted to ground, and the stator is putting out A/C voltage, then the regulator is bad (most likely even if passed step 2)
For more information about your question and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.volusiariders.com/60-help/227012-c50t-will-not-hold-charge.html
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PevgFfi_oaY
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1042330/Suzuki-Vl800.html
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-suzuki
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/611701/Suzuki-Vl800.html

2008 Suzuki... | Answered on Nov 08, 2019


the fuel line leaving tank to the box is your fuel pump,it may not be working,take the line from the tank to pump and check to see if you have fuel flow through that line,if you do reconnect it and disconnect line leaving box to carb, push start button to see if you have fuel from pump,if not,check to see if there is a vacuum line connected to pump,it may be vacuum operated,you can also just run the fuel line from tank straight to carb to see if it will start,then you will know if its your fuel pump.

Suzuki ST 250... | Answered on Nov 06, 2019


Maybe you can use these codes taken from:

http://www.motorcyclephilippines.com/forums/showthread.php?120554-Motorcycle-Electrical-Wiring-Diagram-Thread

This is a Wiring Harness Guide for Suzuki Smash, Raider J, ShogunR/Pro Motorcycles. It may also be applicable to Hayate, Step, Mola and Raider 150.

CDI
ORANGE - from Ignition +ACC
BLACK/swhite - Ground
WHITE/sblue - to Ignition Coil
BLUE/syellow - to ENGINE Stator side

ENGINE - Stator Single Phase
WHITE/sred - To RECTIFIER
YELLOW/swhite - To RECTIFIER
BLUE/syellow - from CDI sensor

ENGINE - Transmission Gearbox
GREEN/sblue - 1st Gear
YELLOW/sblue - 2nd Gear
WHITE/syellow - 3rd Gear
RED/swhite - 4th Gear
BLUE - Neutral

ENGINE - Rear Side
PINK - Odometer Speed Sensor
BLACK/swhite - Ground
ORANGE/sred -

ELECTRIC Start RELAY
YELLOW/sgreen - form Starter Switch
BLACK/swhite - Ground

BREAK - Foot pedal
ORANGE - From ignition + ACC
WHITE/sblack - to Break light

BREAK - Hand Lever
ORANGE - from IGNITION + ACC
WHITE/sblack - To BREAK Light

FUEL Sensor
Yellow/sblack - to Console
BLACK/swhite - Ground

REAR - Lights
WHITE/sblack - form BREAK foot/hand
GRAY - From Night Switch
BLACK - from Left Turnsignal
LIMEGREEN - from Right TurnSignal

Signal Flasher Relay
ORANGE - from Ignition + ACC
LIGHTBLUE - Signal SW

RECTIFIER
WHITE/sred - From STATOR
BLACK/swhite - Ground
YELLOW/swhite - From STATOR
RED/sorange - BATT+/HEAD LIGHT

IGNITION Key
RED - from FUSE
ORANGE - to ACC

HORN Switch
BLACK/swhite - Ground
Green - to Horn

HORN
GREEN - from HORN Switch
ORANGE - Ignition + ACC

NIGHT Switch
RED/sorange - From Rectifier
GRAY - To REAR LIGHT/HEADLIGHTThis is a Wiring Harness Guide for Suzuki Smash, Raider J, ShogunR/Pro Motorcycles. It may also be applicable to Hayate, Step, Mola and Raider 150.

CDI
ORANGE - from Ignition +ACC
BLACK/swhite - Ground
WHITE/sblue - to Ignition Coil
BLUE/syellow - to ENGINE Stator side

ENGINE - Stator Single Phase
WHITE/sred - To RECTIFIER
YELLOW/swhite - To RECTIFIER
BLUE/syellow - from CDI sensor

ENGINE - Transmission Gearbox
GREEN/sblue - 1st Gear
YELLOW/sblue - 2nd Gear
WHITE/syellow - 3rd Gear
RED/swhite - 4th Gear
BLUE - Neutral

ENGINE - Rear Side
PINK - Odometer Speed Sensor
BLACK/swhite - Ground
ORANGE/sred -

ELECTRIC Start RELAY
YELLOW/sgreen - form Starter Switch
BLACK/swhite - Ground

BREAK - Foot pedal
ORANGE - From ignition + ACC
WHITE/sblack - to Break light

BREAK - Hand Lever
ORANGE - from IGNITION + ACC
WHITE/sblack - To BREAK Light

FUEL Sensor
Yellow/sblack - to Console
BLACK/swhite - Ground

REAR - Lights
WHITE/sblack - form BREAK foot/hand
GRAY - From Night Switch
BLACK - from Left Turnsignal
LIMEGREEN - from Right TurnSignal

Signal Flasher Relay
ORANGE - from Ignition + ACC
LIGHTBLUE - Signal SW

RECTIFIER
WHITE/sred - From STATOR
BLACK/swhite - Ground
YELLOW/swhite - From STATOR
RED/sorange - BATT+/HEAD LIGHT

IGNITION Key
RED - from FUSE
ORANGE - to ACC

HORN Switch
BLACK/swhite - Ground
Green - to Horn

HORN
GREEN - from HORN Switch
ORANGE - Ignition + ACC

NIGHT Switch
RED/sorange - From Rectifier
GRAY - To REAR LIGHT/HEADLIGHT
This is a Wiring Harness Guide for Suzuki Smash, Raider J, ShogunR/Pro Motorcycles. It may also be applicable to Hayate, Step, Mola and Raider 150.

CDI
ORANGE - from Ignition +ACC
BLACK/swhite - Ground
WHITE/sblue - to Ignition Coil
BLUE/syellow - to ENGINE Stator side

ENGINE - Stator Single Phase
WHITE/sred - To RECTIFIER
YELLOW/swhite - To RECTIFIER
BLUE/syellow - from CDI sensor

ENGINE - Transmission Gearbox
GREEN/sblue - 1st Gear
YELLOW/sblue - 2nd Gear
WHITE/syellow - 3rd Gear
RED/swhite - 4th Gear
BLUE - Neutral

ENGINE - Rear Side
PINK - Odometer Speed Sensor
BLACK/swhite - Ground
ORANGE/sred -

ELECTRIC Start RELAY
YELLOW/sgreen - form Starter Switch
BLACK/swhite - Ground

BREAK - Foot pedal
ORANGE - From ignition + ACC
WHITE/sblack - to Break light

BREAK - Hand Lever
ORANGE - from IGNITION + ACC
WHITE/sblack - To BREAK Light

FUEL Sensor
Yellow/sblack - to Console
BLACK/swhite - Ground

REAR - Lights
WHITE/sblack - form BREAK foot/hand
GRAY - From Night Switch
BLACK - from Left Turnsignal
LIMEGREEN - from Right TurnSignal

Signal Flasher Relay
ORANGE - from Ignition + ACC
LIGHTBLUE - Signal SW

RECTIFIER
WHITE/sred - From STATOR
BLACK/swhite - Ground
YELLOW/swhite - From STATOR
RED/sorange - BATT+/HEAD LIGHT

IGNITION Key
RED - from FUSE
ORANGE - to ACC

HORN Switch
BLACK/swhite - Ground
Green - to Horn

HORN
GREEN - from HORN Switch
ORANGE - Ignition + ACC

NIGHT Switch
RED/sorange - From Rectifier
GRAY - To REAR LIGHT/HEADLIGHT

2006 Suzuki... | Answered on Nov 05, 2019

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