Question about 1996 Suzuki VS 1400 Intruder

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1996 Suzuki VS 1400 Intruder randomly stalls

Bought my bike a few months ago, '96 Intruder 1400. Since I bought it, have had trouble with it dying here & there, usually when RPMs are low or decreasing. A month ago, I was changing lanes into a turn lane to turn into a parking lot when it died. I tried to pop the clutch for it to start back up but it seems to have vapor locked, causing the brakes to fully lock and everything. I rode the bike home that day with some bent handlebars. About a week before, I had gone on a short ride of about 20miles and for some reason, when I was coming to a stop sign, about 2/3 of the way through, when I pulled the clutch it began to idle out of control, then when I released it, it was fine, so I pulled the clutch again but it did the same thing. When I tried to downshift, it acted as if it was stuck in 4th gear and would not shift at all, so I hit the kill switch(clutch still pulled). It popped a few times as it died when I was stopping on the side of the road. When I hit the start button, it started right up and everything worked like normal. After the ride, I checked all the fluids and they were fine. Two days ago I began replacing the handlebars. I had that done then I couldn't get it to start. I put a full charge on the battery and today it started but it is idling VERY high, with a little popping through the pipes, and when I try to shift into a gear, it dies. When I bought the bike, the guy said the clutch sensor had gone out so they had bypassed it by just connecting the wires directly together. First off, can anyone help me with why it is idling so high and why there seems to be no signal for the clutch being engaged? @

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  • Suzuki Master
  • 59,811 Answers

Hi, Aaron and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
2. Failed alternator/generator and or voltage regulator.
3. Loose or corroded battery terminals and or cables especially the "NEGATIVE" cable, look for loose, corroded, or broken connectors inside the cable harness at "BOTH" ends.
4. Failed main circuit breaker or ignition switch, check for loose connections and continuity.
5. Failed system and or ignition relay, check for continuity.
6. Failed ignition coil, stator, magneto, ignition/electronic module.
7. Failed CKP, CPS, CMP, MAP, TPS, or BAS sensor, corroded, loose or broken wire connector pins/sockets.
8. Throttle cables and or idle speed improperly adjusted hot idle speed should be 950 RPM to 1000 RPM.
9. Faulty neutral, side stand or clutch lever safety switch.
10. Faulty or corroded kill switch.
11. Accelerator pump damaged or not working.
12. Water or dirt in the fuel system, carburetor or filter.
13. Restricted, blocked or kinked fuel line.
14. Fuel tank empty.
15. The gas cap is not venting properly or fuel tank venting system blocked, loosen gas cap and go for a test ride.
16. A failed fuel pump, pressure regulator and or fuel injectors.
17. Vacuum line from intake manifold to petcock broken, cracked, or not attached, carburetor vent line plugged.
18. Needle and seat stuck closed in the float bowl.
19. Petcock clogged or damaged.
20. Lean angle switch is faulty or needs adjustment.
21. Catastrophic engine failure, perform a compression test.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Intruders Alert
https://www.totalmotorcycle.com/BBS/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=21226
Suzuki Intruder VS1400 Service Manual
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-suzuki
Suzuki VS1400 Owner Manual

Posted on Mar 11, 2019

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya

6ya staff

  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Anonymous

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: FXR suzuki 150 will idle but wont rev

Clean the fuel tank, fuel hose and fuel valve.

Posted on May 25, 2009

bozcro

bozcro

  • 867 Answers

SOURCE: how do I adjust the carbs on a vs 1400 intruder

you must be have advanced motorcycle mechanical skills to do this

Posted on Jun 21, 2009

Anonymous

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have a 2001 Suzuki SV650.

The same thing happened to me (2002 sv650) and it turned out to be the voltage regulator. Check it.

Posted on Jul 29, 2009

Anonymous

  • 280 Answers

SOURCE: I just bought a 2003 suzuki intruder 1500. The

(Manual Choke) Make sure that when the choke plunger is fully pushed IN (e.g. choke off) - that the choke cable is actually slack, if it is still tight then adjust the cable till there is a little bit of slack with the plunger pushed in.
(Auto Choke)Have you tried blipping the throttle, just give it a guick stab when it's warmed up and running, be quite sharp and deliberate with the throttle, this usually cancels auto-choke if it's working properly.
if not...
try setting the idle screw on the throttle body when the engine is hot, unscrew the screw to get the desired idle speed, then let it cool (fully cool) and see if it still starts and warms up ok with the new lower setting, either problem solved or back to square 1.. (reset the idle screw back to original setting, good idea to make a note of how far you unscrewed the screw in the first place :-)
check the accelerator cable(s) are not too tight, could be holding the throttle open slightly.
check the air filter/box to see if it is clogged... clogged filter=rich mixture...
Have the engine temp/air temp/oxygen sensors (if applicable) checked out at a garage, they could be causing problems also, but are £20-60 each, if one is faulty dont get bummed for labor charges, a temp sender is a bolt with a connector on it, fit with a ring spanner in 15 seconds, just get the garage to show you which one is broken first (just so you know ;-) then when they "offer to fit it for you" just ask for the part and fit it yourself - turns a £100 job into £20-60 job.
let me know how you get on. (The Engine Guy)
----------------------
Just check through everything in roughly this order, starting with "free" "easy" and moving onto "£20 - £60" - "annoying and niggly" - hopefully you get if fixed near the top of the list!
thinking... this is a great thumping engine - Are you using the correct grade fuel, try premium (97RON or better) if you've been on regular (95RON), some engines just don't like weak fuel especially big bike and performance car engines.

Posted on Jan 02, 2010

usahch2011

charles haruna

  • 192 Answers

SOURCE: 2001 SUZUKI INTRUDER 1400 BEEN

The Bike Technicians Tactic

Phase1

An electrical inspection on the bike should produce results. First, the bike battery powers the entire lightening systems mentionable as ignition, meter readings, head lamps, signal indicators. However, the battery provides the power supply to several entities though also significant is the fuse box containing circuit protection coils. Inserting the bike key into the ignition to perform start mode displays the capacity power circuits. A charged battery should display an indication in the meter reading area also known as bike dashboard grading. A malfunctioning start mode on inserting key in ignition may be traceable several locations on the electrical circuits. Attempting to repair the electrical power of the bike usually requires batter power power test kit. The test kit ascertains the battery power making possible progress to the remaining electrical circuits. Test kit also ascertains the fuse box circuit functionality either with fuses still intact or extracted allowing for the next progress level. An observation tour of the bikes electrical wiring kits from battery hold through fuse box compartments to each lightening display area either headlamps, indicators, and meter reading should produce results of any visible damages that may require repairs after the electrical inspection has been performed. Once any faults were observed on the electrical channels, repair mode is the next level. A dull battery either may have been depleted completely of durational capacity requiring another for replacement. Alternately, a depleted power supply due to prolonged storage may require charge functionalities. Usually, a device capacapble of restoring a battery of electrolytes is resorted for charger ability. The type of battery may require constuents either liquid cathode replenishment in the battery entrapment area prior to charging feature is assumed with electrolyte machine. Once the battery has regained full functionality makes way the next repair task. The fuse box may have simply required replacement fuses either as missing or burnt out. A fuse box usually contains additional spare for replacement functionalities. An alternate arrangement at acquiring fuses on the auto mart may replace the burnt devices. The next electrical task is wiring fixtures achievable by mending broken cords with appropriate electrician's tapes else malfunctions may remain. Alternately, a worn-out electrical wire is replaceable by acquiring the entire extension lengthwise between significant areas. The last remaining electrical units are lightening indicators consisting of bulbs or luminescent displays reflectors. Observe the blub areas either by loosening covers to inspect for observable burnouts else the entire electrical circuitry is ready for functionality observations with separate entities.

Engine Technicians Tactic

PHASE 2

A bike engine inspection includes observation for indications of malfunction. Any fluid residue is indication of problem areas. Where oil leaks usually requires engine block inspections. A bike engine consists of an entrapment compartment where mechanical combustion takes place. First, the entire observable block consists of an external coating known as engine bloc housing internal component of pistons, rings, and fastens known as cylinder heads. A bike engine has every component embedded within requiring technical expertise to achieve an inspection. Once deciding on the engine task requirements, acquire a tool box with the appropriate componements as first requirement before engine works is commence able. Second, the bike may require an area environment as workshop requirement to attain engine inspections. Third, bike engine are least bulky compared with vehicle engines however assistance would complement the inspection phase. Prior to inspecting the bike engine, a strap mechanism has to be assumed to achieve expert maneuverability also as safe precaution. Unless parts hinder maneuverability at engine locations, the only removable components should be the engine. First, start with disjointing the spark plug cables to acquire accessibility to plugs imbedded on the cylinder heads. The plugs require tools to loosen thereby exposing the combustible area. Once the spark plugs are exposed, two alternatives are likely. First, a spark plug may have gathered rust residue only requiring cleaning to attain regular capacity. The pin area of the spark plug may have been twisted due to overheating and slight melting dislocation. Usually cleaning the residue from old plugs may simply expose the ignitable capacities. However, an observation of twisted plug pin may require twisting back in place to achieve full ignitability once bike engine starts. A bike engine bloc has the pistons as combustibles or blasters of fuel gasoline. The rings perform as strap fasteners whenever the pistons move about combustibility. Usually, the engine entrapment components would have collected residue requiring clearing. Also, pistons together with rings may require replacements either as worn-out due to prolongs tasks or overexerted biker features.

Posted on Mar 05, 2011

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1 Answer

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Hi, Stephen and the usual suspects are:
1. Neutral light bulb burnt out.
2. Faulty neutral switch.
3. A loose bulb in the socket.
4. Faulty wiring from the neutral switch to the light.
5. Grounded neutral light circuit.
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Plugs are black aft.mrkt pipes bike runs good


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Jun 06, 2009 | 1996 Suzuki VS 1400 Intruder

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