How do you check resistance through the heater coil?

Ignition Coil Primary Circuit Test
Remove the coil. THEN set your ohmmeter scale to RX1 and place ohmmeter leads on the primary coil windings A (front of coil) to B (middle of coil), B to C (front of coil) and check for primary coil winding resistance which normal resistance range is 0.5-0.7 ohms. If primary resistance is not within this range check out test results below.

Ignition Coil Secondary Circuit Test
With the ignition coil removed from the motorcycle and the ohmmeter set to the RX1K scale place the ohmmeter leads on the secondary coil windings B (middle terminal) to
R (rear secondary terminal/socket), B to F (front secondary terminal/socket) and check for secondary coil winding resistance which normal resistance range will be 5.5-7.5K ohms. If secondary resistance is not within this range check out test results below.

Test Results
A low resistance value indicates a short in the coil winding which requires coil replacement.

A high resistance value might indicate that there is some corrosion/oxidation of the coil terminals requiring the coil terminals to be cleaned and the resistance test then repeated and if after the test is repeated the resistance is still high after the terminals were cleaned the coil must be replaced.
If there is an infinite ohms or no continuity) resistance value the coil is open and must be replaced.

coils come in t different voltages for two different wiring applications in cars.. Let me give you a sample . Car A ignition is 12 volts so there is a 12 volt coil fitted IT starts on 12 volts and runs on 12 volts. no problem .BUT car B ignition system is divided into 2 sections The start section is 12 volts so that the coils get maximum voltage fro starting but in the run position the circuit switches to a resisted circuit so that the coil only gets 7.5 volts . Now if you put a resisted coil in a 12volt car (A) then the coil will burn out very quickly as there is no resistance circuit to protect it. The General (GM) use a resisted wire from the ignition switch to the coil so that you have 2 wires on one terminal and one wire to the distributor. Check which coils you have been using as you will see on the bottom a note --use with resistor--. Second point if you leave the ignition on and the engine is not running then there is a current that is passing through the coil and this is an electric field and that will (like and induction heater burn up the coil

Not sure what the ohms should be,but ckeck coils for damage you may have a leak

First, check the back of the oven. See if the lil red button can be pressed in. Then check the IR Element, usually you can see the wires burned or damaged where it enters the oven by the snap rings. This was a design flaw from the manufacturer of the element of which turbochef has taken care of.

COMPONENTS
IR Element
The IR element - a dual coil type heater - is located
in the bottom of the oven cavity. The first coil is the
heating coil. The second is the IR thermocouple
wire. The heating coil outputs 3000 watts at 208
VAC. The heating coil's resistance is 14.4 ohms at
room temperature.
The thermocouple coil is a Type K thermocouple
with a resistance of approximately 20 ohms at the
splices located approximately 6 inches from the
heater and 40 ohms measured at the extension wires
at the I/O control board.
The IR element is controlled via the K5 solid state
relay and the IR thermocouple via the I/O control
board.

Its typically an easy quick fix.

The most likely cause is a bad defrost heater. (the part at the very bottom of the cooling coils with electric wires going to it. You should ohm check the heater. If there is high or infinite resistance, replace the heater. If there is low resistance across the heater, it is good, so replace the thermister instead. (about an inch and a half long white pencil shapped item with two white wires protruding from it located at the very top of the cooling coils)

NO you cannot. I also advise you to completely disconnect all power to it until ready to do the work, you may cause a fire otherwise. Be safe.

sounds like a broken element or wire. with unit unplugged, using an ohm meter check all connections and check elements for resistance.

Check gas valve coil, igniter resistance and thermostat continuity

Ok, sounds like you are on the right track. Let me see what you have for defrost control. I don't know what your OHM are through the defrost heater but it will show resistance because that is normal. Open or almost nothing would concern me more. You do have Adaptive Defrost Control inside the fresh food compartment and that may be the problem, I just checked one site and will be back soon. Sea Breeze

hi! there, as you mention since source was 115 voltwas initialized and thermostat detected was functioning but heater won't fire, check if there's incoming source on your heating element using multitester on voltmeter set up,if there's source 115 volt,check your heating element resistance be sure to switch off your ac before checking resistance of your heater (your tester may damage upon testing resistance when ac source was on takenote),set your tester to ohmmeter R10 test rod at both end on terminal take reading if no deflection,you have busted heating element,replaced heating element,If there's relay holding supply on heating element on circcuit board try to check it out.if source 115 volt is acquired,also check the resistance coil of relay,iif defective replaced one...have a nice they.