I have a 1986 700 fazer on a buggy it has a dynajet stage one kit in it K&N air filter pipes are not stock it runs good at high RPM when at low RPM it runs like its getting to much fuel it has ajustable main needles would it help to drop the needles thanks

Just an air filter then no jets but with a full exhaust straight through I would definitely do it.
If you don't you might get the odd small flat spot.
I can't recommend the jet kit but rolling road tune would be beneficial and eek out all possible power .
Nick.

That's a wide open answer. Is it totally stock with the crossover pipe in the exhaust ( 95)? Do you have two into one racing pipes ( 110)? Do you have drag pipes ( do you want it to idle or run good wide open throttle?)(125) ? Do you have stock air filter? Stock ignition? Dynojet kit?
The correct answer is to tune it. That means: put it together and ride it for 30 miles ( unless its obviously way off) and check the plugs and adjust and ride it for 30 miles again and check the plugs. Once you get it close you can adjust with idle air screw but my limit is 2 and 1/2 turns out. You get past that you need a bigger jet.

Use a DYNAJET kit & go with the directions. Or check with the Hypercharger manufacture for correct jetting. But you will still need different needles & main jets for those pipes.

Possible EGR valve

Hi there,

The jets are for increased performance but the jets installed must be in relation to the pipe used. An open pipe would require larger jets. If the jets came with the pipe when the previous owner purchased it, then it should work. My advise would be to tune it up, sync the carbs, and time the sparks.

If all else fail, ask the previous owner to provide the stock jets and replace it. Stock jets along with the stock pipe will almost always run the first time. Sync the carbs and tune timing. If you have it all running smooth, from there you can do upgrades like stage 1 jet kit or purchase a performance exhaust.

Please do let me know if any of this was helpful,
I'll follow it up should my suggestions fail,

Intended for motorcycles with a stock engine using the stock airbox, air filter and stock pipe. Stage 1 kits are fully adjustable to allow the use of a well designed aftermarket pipes and stock replacement air filters like K&N. Stage 1 kits are designed to improve throttle response and driveability and in most cases power increases of approximately 5% throughout the entire power range can be achieved.


STAGE ONE INSTRUCTIONS
1. Remove the vacuum slide from the carbs. Remove the stock needles & spacers, noting the order of
assembly. Locate the slide lift holes (Fig. A), with the slide drill DD# 14 supplied, enlarge your slide lift
holes. The picture may not show your slide exactly, enlarge your slide lift hole or holes depending on your
model. Do not drill any new lift holes. Do not drill the needle hole.
2. Install Dynojet needles on groove #4, using all stock spacers. Install the Dynojet washers (2 per
needle) above the E-clip.
3. Remove the stock main jets and replace with the Dynojet main jets provided. If you are running with
stock exhaust, use the DJ110 main jets. With an aftermarket header or slip-on with high flowing baffles,
use the DJ116 main jets. Be sure that the jets you are changing are the main jets.
4. Locate the fuel mixture plug (Fig. B), if you see a screw head, proceed to adjusting procedure. With the
DD #5/32 drill bit provided, carefully drill thru the plugs. Note: the mixture screw is directly underneath this
plug, be ready to pull back on the drill the instant you break thru. Use screw provided to secure and
remove the plug. Carefully turn mixture screws clockwise until they seat, turn out 3 turns.


For further info on this, visit: http://www.dynojet.com/jetkits/motorcycle/honda.aspx

You can find the manual for the model you are searching for. Follow the 1st column "CC" to find 650cc models and you can find your specific model after that.

Thanks for asking.
Regards,
Arvind S Iyer

Let me tell you that I'm also working on that. :-)..
A nissan ga13ds, since it is carbureted, then it is limited on the amount of modifications that are of good value for money, since some of the top end modifications may cost you the price of a brand new nissan sentra + modifications.
Here are some things I did and are planning: -Replace the stock fuel filter assembly to a high performance one. (ex. to a High flow air filter, cold air intake, short ram intake, etc.) -switch to an electrical fuel pump. -upgrade exhaust system. (performance headers, high flow catalytic converter, larger exhaust pipes, racing mufflers. -upgrade to a better radiator (aluminum) + stronger and better fans. (a cooler engine runs a bit faster) -Install an oil cooler again for the same reason of better cooling. -(just my idea) Buy a performance carburetor. (this may be too costly because you might have have an intake manifold custom built) -Replace engine internals to race internals for better performance under High RPM. -Find or custom build racing camshafts to replace your stock. (this will result to better performance at high RPM levels but will not be efficient running the car in a lower RPM range).
You can also improve the performance of the car itself by doing the following: -Saving weight: -Aluminum wheels -carbon fiber/fiberglass/aluminum hood and trunk. -and any other stuff not necessary to you can be removed to save more weight.

I hope these ideas help.

Because the K&N filters are much less restrictive than the original airbox and filter, the bike may run lean, and you MAY have to have the carb jets reworked/changed.

1997 fuel injected FLHTC? Hmm. Did not know they had FI that year.

Anyway, the DynaJet sytem needs to be enrichened up a little. The open exhaust probably contributed to the lean running too.

try placing the reed spacer between .reed assembly & cylinder, also try an adjustable ignition stator plate, set at +4, k & n air filter, open air box.replace T.O.R.S. eliminator system w/ a cap & cable, and idle air screw install kit, also a pipe tuned for more torque(bottom -end/mid range) blasters dont have a lot of power on bottom end and the engine needs to rev to hit power band.cylinder porting,240 bigbore kits, & +4mm stroker crank assemblies are good performance options.