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If the unit is equipped with a voltage regulator or a bridge
rectifier, flash the field as follows:
• Obtain a 12VDC battery.
• Get two jumper leads that can go from the battery to
the brushes (wires with alligator clips work well).
• Find the brushes inside the alternator portion of the
unit.
• Start the engine and get it up to running speed.
• Connect the battery positive (+), to the positive brush,
which will be the brush closest to the rotor bearing.
• Connect the battery negative (-), to the negative brush,
which is the brush farthest away from the rotor
bearing.
• After about five seconds, disconnect the battery wires
from the brushes and check for proper (AC) output
voltage.
• Shut the engine down. Restart the unit and check once
again for proper (AC) output voltage.
Is the battery light on the dash board working? If the light does not work the alternator will not charge, it needs the power from the light to energise the rotor.
I would inspect the slip rings on the armature/rotor first to see if they are clean and not burnt. IF the brushes are in the regulator unit ok but if separate check condition of the brushes
Remove the end case on the generator end, locate the brushes and also the wires going to the brushes. Crank the engine while measuring the voltage on the brushes, note which lead is B+. Disconnect the brush wires and isolate. To flash the rotor you will need a battery wires with an in line fuse, connect the wires noting B+ to the right brush where you measured earlier (polarity is critical) then toucj on the battery for approx 3 - 5 seconds, this will rebuild the field in the rotor. Disconenct and re-assemble brush wires. When you start generator do not add any load for a while, until the rotor field has chance to re-saturate
It is corrected properly, right? + to the wiring harness and - to ground ... right? Are you certain about the rectifier? Is the battery charged at this time?
You know a alternator cannot make power unless you first put power into it ... right? Alternators (unlike most generators) are not self exciting. If your battery is weak or "dead", the alternator cannot make electricity to charge the battery. I don't know what the rating of your alternator is. Your battery should be fully charged before you do any more tests. If you have a 1 amp charger, allow at least 10 hours for a full charge. Don't cook your battery with a big, powerful, fast charging automotive battery charger.
Good luck with your repair ... I hope you find this response helpful.
Well, that's all there is to the charging system, a stator, a rotor, a regulator, and a battery.
Charge your battery until it fully charged. Take a digital volt ohm meter and connect the red lead to the positive and the black lead to the negative lead of the battery. Put the meter in DC volts, 20 or higher range. Start the engine and bring it to a high idle. You should read 14.5 to 14.8 volts on the meter. If so, your charging is working as it should. If not, proceed to the next step.
With the engine off, find the plug where the regulator plugs into the engine case. Unplug the connector and look into the part that is inside the case. Using your DVOM, put one lead into each plug or pin in the connector. Be careful not to touch the sides of the case and it makes no difference which lead goes to which pin as the voltage is Alternating Current instead of Direct current. Put your meter in AC voltage, 50 volt or higher range. Start the engine and bring it to a high idle. You should read 30 volts or higher. If not, something is wrong with the stator. As long as you have 30 volts or better, your alternator is working as it should
Your regulator must have a good ground. I always put a 'star washer" on the regulator mounting bolts between the regulator and the frame.
If you used a new rotor, I have run across one rotor during my time that the magnets were not strong enough. You could hold a screwdriver up to it and tell right off that it wasn't right. Only seen it that one time though.
I had the same problem with my 900 that I just bought, the regulator was fried, so the local kaw shop replaced it with a new one off internet, then it promptly fried the new one, upon further investigation the rotor/armature was reading 1 ohm resistance, supposed toread 4/7 i think anyway, had to have alternater rebuilt , cost 370.00 , works fine now.
new brushes rectifier and voltage regulator. The dynamo delivers 14V up to excactly 4000 rpm no charging over 4000rpm at all
Do i need to change to rotor in the dynamo ?More likely:
a) one of the new parts you put on is defective
b) you put one (or more...) of them on wrongly
If you had the rotor off, make sure it is properly back on and running concentric with the shaft. _Possibly_ it is running with a wobble and bouncing the brushes off the slip rings.,,,
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