Need a diagram for electronic ignition for a 1980 harley sportster to convert to points

SOURCE: wiring diagram for 1980 triumph t140v ignition

Get a Haynes Manual. I work on my own bikes with a Factory Manual, The Haynes or Clymer Manual and a Parts Book. If you are going to do your own work you need these books. Period.

http://www.themotorbookstore.com/trium65twin1.html

Here are some simple diagrams that give the basic idea of what works for the Typanium Rectifier set up.

http://www.raskcycle.com/techtip/webdoc10.html

Here is a good site for "Home Mechanics".. I love this site.. has some great Triumph stuff and repair info.

www.jockeyjournal.com

Jim

SOURCE: I need a wiring diagram for a electronic ignition module.

If I understand correctly, Your bike has points in it now and you want to go to electronic ignition. If that's what you want to do, I would suggest that you go with one of the aftermarket ignition units. They're more versatile, costs less, and easier to install.

There are two types available. Your bike has a mechanical timing advance unit behind the points breaker plate. One type of electronic unit eliminates this mechanical part and makes the system truly maintenance free while the other type retains the mechanical advance unit and cost less. A prime example is Crane Cam's HI-1 unit that retains the mechanical advance and their HI-4 unit that eliminates it. Most bikes made after 1984 do not have the mechanical advance units. Since your bike does not have any of the original components left on it, I would suggest that you get one of the units that goes in the "nose cone" of the engine. It simply replaces the everything in there if you get the unit that does not use the mechanical advance. The Mechanical advance units are prone to wear and since no one ever services them, I'd suggest getting rid of it. You'll have to purchase a "timing cup" from Harley, costs about $20, a lot less than $100 bucks for needle bearing mechanical advance unit. Get the shorter screw that goes with it as well.

All you have to have with either unit is a "hot" wire going to the coil. The coil must have a primary resistance of somewhere around 3-4 ohms where a points type coil has a primary resistance of 4-6 ohms. To determine the resistance of your coil use a Digital Volt Ohm Meter and measure the resistance between the two small terminals on the coil. To wire the ignition units is usually just a two or three wire hookup that is very simple. They all come with wiring instructions.

Now, the next thing is whether you wish to stick with "dual fire" ignition or go to "single fire" ignition. Dual fire is the system that almost all Harley's come equipped with from the factory. In this type of system, both spark plugs fire when the pistons are top dead center. Since one piston is on the exhaust stroke, that spark is of no consequence and therefore is considered a 'wasted spark". In a "single fire" system, the spark plugs fire independently when each piston comes to TDC on the compression stroke. It requires either two coils or a "two in one" type coil. This added coil increases the cost of the system and to be honest with you, I cannot tell a difference between the two systems. With that in mind, I opt to go with the less expensive and simplier "dual fire" system.

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http://www.compufire.com/harley-main.html
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Ok, this will get you started. Installing an electronic ignition system in an older Harley is easy to do. The difficult part is deciding which one to go with. Once you do that, no problem. If you have anymore questions, drop me a line at [email protected] .

To see how to hook up one of the units, go to their website and look for a "Technical" page. Go to that page and look for "installation Instructions". Print them out and it'll tell you everything you need to know. If not, I've got some different types of systems installation instructions that I can scan and send to you.

Good Luck
Steve

SOURCE: Can't get 1980 Harley Sportster to idle. New

My guess woud be that you either have not got the timing set correctly or something to do with the intake/ carb.

Since you say you replaced the advance weights, this tells me that you removed the breaker plate. I hope that you replaced the entire mechanical advance unit unstead of just the weights. The problem is that the pivot pin wears and replacing the weights does not replace these pins. I always use the needle bearing equipped units.

Now, to check the timing, connect a timing light to the front cylinder and start the engine. Remove the timing plug from the left side of the engine and shine the light in the hole. Bring the engine up to about 2500 RPM. You should see a "dot" in the middle of the hole. If not, you'll have to move the breaker plate to change the timing.

Intake and carb. I've seen brand new intake clamps with new "rubber bands" leak. I always pressure test them. To do this, you must make a plate that replaces the carb and bolts on to the intake. In the middle of this plate, there should be a hose nipple. Rotate the engine until both intake valves are closed and apply about 5 PSI pressure to the intake. Spray soapy water on the intake and clamps to find the leaks. Once the leaks have been stopped, work on the carb.

If you're using the original Keihen carb, you'll probably find that the slow speed jet or the idle port is plugged up. I'd disassemble the carb and soak it in carb cleaner. Make sure all the air and fuel passageways are clear. If the idle mixture adjusting screw is frozen up, trash the carb and get another one.

Good Luck
Steve

SOURCE: hooking up a tach on a 89 harley sportster 883,

Most aftermarket tachometers will employ a 3 wire system. A "power" wire, a "signal" wire and a "ground" wire. On a stock Sportster's ignition coil there will be 2 terminals/posts. 1 post will have a set of white wire on it the other a blue or pink wire. White is switched 12VDC (vehicle power) and the blue/pink is the secondary side of the coil (signal). I'd really need more information to be most helpful.