SOURCE: '95 Yamaha YZ 125 clutch - stays in gear when clutch is pulled in
hey dude,, just thought id come in and give u some tips or 3,, i take it when u pull clutch lever in, and try and change gear it feels like your foot will snap b4 it goes in gear,, if that makes sense,, firstly mate,is to make sure the clutch cable slides freely ,easest way is to take cable off and just grab 1 end and make sure it isnt sticky,, if so dip one end of the cable in a bit of old oil ,,whilst holdin the other end ,pull and push the cable inner, this will **** up a bit of lubricant inside the cable ,, keep doin this each end till free to move, ,,next step if the cables ok,,, and may need help if u dont no,drain the oil out,,and as u r sat on the bike is to remove the clutch casing on the right hand side of the moter,where the bottom end of the cable goes,remove the casing being carefull not damage the gasket,,then u will see clutch plates and friction plates housed,, undo the 7 or 8 spring loaded bolts carefully take the first fibre plate out then metal friction plate then another fibre plate and so on,, wen u take the 1st plate out place that on the bench ,stacking each plate on top of one another, cause they have to go back in as they came out,,wen out,,u need a piece of wet n dry paper ,or fine emery,,and just wipe round both sides of the fibre plates taking the shine off them,as u put them back in,, put casing back on with a decent gasket,, oil back in cable on, make sure cable has no free play on the lever so wen u r about to pull lever in it bite straight away,, start her up, warm it up and try it,,any probs still il eat my shoe,, take care m8
SOURCE: stiff shifting into second gear
Yes, too much slack can cause the problem. Remove the slack by adjusting the cable at both ends if needed. Here's the deal, if the clutch does not work fully, the engine is still applying pressure to the driven gear. The pressure on the gear does not let the shifter move freely.
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Try this little test > on a clear road shift from 2nd to 3rd using the clutch but don't let off the gas when you shift. If the motor reved up when you shifted then the clutch was doing its' part at least a bit. Now do the same process but this time do not use the clutch at all. Instead, let off the gas when you shift. Letting off the gas lessens the drive pressure on the gears and will allow the shifter to better do its' part. Not using the clutch is commonly referred to a "power shifting ". If out on the road and the clutch cable breaks, this is a way to keep going for a bit.
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As to worn dogs and shift forks, your bike is pretty new so I doubt wear is a problem. A bent shift fork is a possibility but since you have a funky clutch cable I suggest we keep it simple and start there.
SOURCE: clutch cable
first need to set push rod freeplay 1/16th clearance @ engine clutch basket then set handle bar
SOURCE: suspension specs for a 2007 yz 125
hi lilsilence, thank you for using fixya. below is a line from dirtrider.com, answered the same question for a 2003 which is the intro for speed sensitive suspension.
Several ways to go here. Remove half of the fluid in each fork and addback a 10wt. This will approximate a 7.5wt. Going to a 10wt. willreduce bottoming but will give you some harshness. Depending on yourweight and riding style it is difficult to give you proper advice, justgeneralities.
I use ATF fluid. I'm valved for wood and light MX, stock springs, and Iweigh 155 lbs. ATF is cheap and is something simular to 7.5wt. I'm noexpert and my explanation might not hold water but it works for me.
Mobil1 Synthetic ATF is a very popular fluid that will probably be the weight you want.
Seems to me that I can make much more difference in the action bychanging the fluid levels. If you mix up riding between track andtrail, you may want to consider sub-tanks.
Draw out half of the fluid with a piece of tubing attached to a saryngeand put back an equal amount of 10wt. Adjust the level from there tosuit your comfort.
Sub-tanks give a greater amount of adjustability and plushness. Pricey but do the trick when properly set up.
http://www.dirtrider.net/forums3/showthread.php?t=159185
I have use close to the same method on my rm250 and have worked for me, i sure hope it will help you out in another way.
if you have other question, please let us know.
regards,
voodoo
SOURCE: yz 125 2001 stays in gear when clutch pulled in
Lose the Honda transmission oil. It may have swollen the cork on the friction plates. Go with 10w40 in the gearbox. Any major brand; Mobil, Shell, Quaker State, Pennzoil, etc.. Try the new oil and give the cork a week to shrink back down > if they will. You may need to put in a new set of plates.
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Thanks. For your reply. I was out riding and the clutch just went slack. I have checked the cable and its not that and took off both sides of the casing to get a look at the clutch and everythink looks fine. Any more help would be great.
Thanks. For your reply. I was out riding and the clutch just went slack. I have checked the cable and its not that and took off both sides of the casing to get a look at the clutch and everythink looks fine. Any more help would be great.
Thanks. For your reply. I was out riding and the clutch just went slack. I have checked the cable and its not that and took off both sides of the casing to get a look at the clutch and everythink looks fine. Any more help would be great.
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