Question about Motorcycles
Bike won't start or clutch start. All that happens is a single click sound from circuit breaker (30 amp) behind battery box.
Try to reset the circuit breaker. also check for an earth fault on the starter motor .If this is not a circuit breaker and is a relay, you should make sure everything is ready for a start, (ie : in neutral, sidestand up and clutch in and that the battery is charged.) the neutral light being "on" doesn't mean it is in neutral. I hope this helps.
Posted on Mar 08, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
With bike not running, rock the bike backwards and forwards and shift through all the gears. If it shifts all the way to fifth gear and back down, then the problem is not in the transmission. If you can't shift the transmission into any gear with the bike not running, just rocking it backwards and forwards, then you've got a problem with the transmission or the shift lever mechanism.
If it does shift but you still can't get it into gear something is strange. I've seen a clutch that the plates were locked together from sitting up, but it still would shift into gear. Of course, when it did shift into first gear, the bike would lurch forward and kill the engine. In this case, we had to disassemble the clutch pack and free the plates up. If you've had a new clutch put in the bike, it could simply need an adjustment. But, usually a new clutch will have a tendency to wear in and start to slip rather than drag. When a clutch causes the bike to lurch when put into gear or become difficult to find neutral with the engine running, it's dragging. I'd check the entire clutch adjustment to start with.
Slide the rubber boot on the clutch cable up, break the lock nut loose and turn the adjuster to make the cable as short as possible. Take the derby cover off the primary to gain access to the clutch release adjuster bolt. Break the large locknut loose, adjust the center bolt inward until you feel resistance. Back the screw back out and back in until you feel resistance again several times. You want to just take the slack out of the adjustment, not start to open the clutch up. Once you've turned the bolt in and feel the resistance, back the bolt back out 1/2 to 1 complete turn. Hold the bolt in this position and lock the lock nut again. Now, adjust the clutch cable back out until you get a freeplay of about an 1/8 inch at the lever. The clutch should be adjusted well enough to release at this point. If it doesn't, the clutch plates are probably stuck.
If the clutch plates are stuck, rock the bike back and forth and shift the bike into fourth or fifth gear. Now, while holding the clutch lever in, push the bike backwards and forwards far enough to "bump" the clutch. This may break the bond between the plates and free it up. If not, you'll have to disassemble the clutch in order to free it up. Good Luck.
Posted on Nov 09, 2009
Testimonial: "Thanks for taking the time to help me out, very informative. Thank you again."
Wiring a motorcycle for a trailer is exactly like wiring a car or truck for a trailer hitch. You have to determine what type of lights you want on your trailer. You brake lights, turn signals, and tail lights. So, you get yourself a test light and connect the alligator clip to a good ground.
Now, on the backside of your rear fender is all the wires going to your brake light / tail light assembly and your turn signal lights. Now, I don't have a schematic for a late model FLH but it used to be the red wire was the brake light, the green wire was the tail light and you had a brown wire for one turn signal and a purple wire for the other side. The turn signal wires were actually gray wires with little brown or purple "bands" around the wire out near the bulb.
Step on the brake and use your tester to probe the wires until on lights up. Release the brake to verify the correct wire for the brake lights. Now turn on the right turn signal and probe the wires until you find one blinking. That's the right turn signal wire. Do the same thing to find the left turn signal wire. Now, you shouldn't have very many wires left. So, turn on the headlight and probe until you find a wire that lights up the tester. Now, at this point you should know which wire is which on your bike.
The trailer should have come with a wiring diagram. If not, you'll have to look at the light sockets on the trailer. You should see at least four colored wires. There should be one color wire on one light that is not on the other side light. These are turn signal wires. One color to the right, one color to the left side. Now the other two colors should go to both lights. One color is the brake light wire and the other is the tail light wire.
Now, that you have all the wires identified, simply buy the little connectors and start connecting the proper wires to each other. You'll be trailiering in no time. Good Luck and ride safe
Posted on Jan 29, 2010
i dont understand, the bike shouldent start in gear with the lever out it would jump forward when you hit the start button.. there is nothing wrong with the bike by what you say its just a neutral light, witch is a switch find the neutral indicator switch and replace it and your probelms will go away or test the one you have it should test 13ohms in neutral and OL in gear
let me know how you make out
Posted on May 18, 2010
Professeur D is another of the people who just can't say "I don't know" or just be quiet. His comments are worthless. You don't say what the bike model or year is, but I bet it's a newer bike. I have an '02 FLHTCU with the engine juiced up a little and the rear cylinder really runs hot. The circuit breaker is located right over the rear cylinder, and since I have an oil temp gage I can see that when the temp hits 230 the breaker is going to open and shut all electrical off. I've changed breakers many times and the problem is still there and the dealers don't know what to do. I've been told by another rider that I should replace the circuit breaker with a fuse which will not be affected by temp. I'm going to look into that!
Posted on Jun 02, 2010
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