My regulator keeps blowing

Check alternator output and the regulator- the regulator may not be working and the battery got overcharged badly

use a vom/ meter on current setting put in circuit ..take hot off battery attach one lead to bat + the other lead to heavy cable u just disconnected. but 1st charge bat to full. see current draw. start to pull one fuse at a time till current drops. that circuit is the culprit. then youll need to find out why is drawing w/ bike off. wire chafed ? minor short.. or when running meter on battery 14.5 volts not running 12.5 volts if the vovtages don't go up when running regulator or altinator is bad or bat wire .. get the manual.. a big help...

check the alternator is putting out charge !
use a volt meter & rev motor a little to see if volts increas if it doesnt then get a replacement

I have a '07 C90T.
I have just replaced my stator. I replaced the reg/rectifier earlier this year. I replaced the battery one year ago in October.

I firmly believe what started the problem. Two guys that I told I didn't need help, but they pressured me to let them help. They hooked a battery backwards to my bike. A lot of people believe that's what shortened the life of the rectifier and stator.

But keep this in mind. The connections for the regulator/rectifier are not waterproof. I had done a lot of rainy riding and I first found a burnt connector on the discharge side of the reg/rect. My mechanic told me I needed to replace the reg/rect so I did but I soldered the wires and made them waterproof. I didn't do this on the stator side of the reg/rect and a few months later, when the bike quit charging again, I found that connector burnt, so I cut it out and soldered and waterproofed it.

Two days after we got back from a 700 mile round trip to Red River, NM, my bike quit charging again. This time though, I have a voltage meter on the bike, so I was aware of the problem before the bike could strand me someplace. Get one of those btw.
When I checked the old stator after I replaced it, I found the stator good but the pulse signal generator bad. It's required that you replace both btw. You have to, they are joined at the grommet.

Ok well, the battery cost $60 last year and I replaced it myself.
The reg/rect cost $140 through my mechanic and I replaced it myself.
Got the stator online for $173 shipped and they advertise a better stator that puts out 20% more power.
Not counting little things like solder, tape, heatshrink and such, I'm out a little less than $375 on my charging system.
I hope it's a done deal.
Again, some think the problems began when the battery was hooked up wrong, but I lean to believe the sub-standard Suzuki connections may have a hand in this.
Hope this helps. . . Joe

Sometimes when the battery keeps going dead like that, a component may be creating a current draw. you can do a simple current draw test with a fluke meter by setting the meter to read amps, make sure the test leads are in the proper portals on the fluke for an amp test, and disconnect one of the battery cables and connect the test leads in-line with the battery and cable. It would help to know you have a good fuse inside the fluke. They are easy to blow, and whatever you do, DO NOT try to start the unit with the meter hooked up for the amp draw test. That is how fuses are blown. With the key off, check for any amp draw. If there is, you can start unplugging components until the draw goes away. If there was no draw to begin with, you may have a stator coil (or alternantor, whichever it has) that is weak and can't keep up.

try to replace the battery and if it doesn't turn on replace memories