Question about Honda CBR 125 R Motorcycles
Basically my bike will not idle correctly and when it does it revs quite high I also find that sometimes when easing off throttle at speed the revs take a good 10 seconds before they ease off but if I brake the revs will go down, I also find that when sat at traffic lights I have to rev to keep the engine running however sometimes it will idle, when I start it first thing in the morning it is like it is idling, however, it sounds more like it's just high revving. the idle has been adjusted and the throttle cable has been checked by someone who knows what they are doing I just wondered if I could get some information on what you think the problem/problems could be if possible in detail. Thanks Michael
Posted by Anonymous on
Hi, Michael and the usual suspects are:
1. Throttle cables improperly adjusted, pinched or need lubrication.
2. Idle adjusting screw needs to be backed off.
4. Air fuel mixture adjusted too lean start with 2 full turns.
5. Intake system air leak.
6. Fast idle choke ramp is not releasing.
7. Broken throttle return spring.
8. Damaged diaphragm or slide.
9. Faulty MAP, TPS, ATS, O2, sensors or wiring/connector.
10. Multiple carburetors not in sync.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
High Idle Extremely
Honda CBR125R Owner Manual service
Honda CBR125RW Owner Manual
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Posted on Jun 19, 2017
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: kawasaki gpz 1000 rx 1987 model
Running well at high revs would indicate that all the fuel and air it needs are getting to the engine and you also have a good spark. Probably no problem with air and fuel filter ( if fitted) or sparkplugs.
Running hot, and bad idling are signs of a lean air fuel mixture. The engine is probably not getting enough fuel at low revs.
This could be caused by an air leak between the carburettors and the engine. Check that the vacuum line to the fuel tap is properly secured at both ends. It is behind the fuel line at the tap.
Get a a short length of hollow plastic tube and use it like a stethascope - put one end to your ear and move the other end around your carburettor mounts with your engine revs as low as you can get, and listen for any sucking noises that would indicate a leak. Look for cracks in the rubber inlets.
The other possibility is that there is an internal blockage in the idling jets or idling fuel circuit. This is where dirt tends to lodge because the jet dimensions and passageways are very fine - The high speed jets are much bigger and dirt often just passes straight through.
Try a little bit of choke while the engine is warm to see if you get a stronger low speed response. If so that would point to an internal blockage.
Posted on Mar 21, 2009
ALWAYS have a fire extinguisher on hand when working on carburetors.
Remove the water trap bowl at the bottom of the petcock, (gas valve). Is there any water or trash in the bowl? Drain a cup of gas from the tank. Is there any water or trash in the cup? Dump it, clean it and re-mount it, ( not all bikes have a water trap bowl ).
Drain the carburetor. There should be a screw on the lower side of the carb float bowl. Remove the screw then replace it after the fuel drains. Turn the gas back on and wait a minute for the carb to fill with gas. Install a new stock NGK spark plug and try to start the engine. If the bike doesn't start and run properly then shut off the gas and remove the carburetor from the engine.
Remove the float bowl and clean the entire carb with a spray carb cleaner from the auto parts store. Wear protective goggles to avoid getting spray in your eyes. Spray into all the little airways and fittings in the carb. Remove the idle screw and the air screw on the outside throat of the carb and spray into the screw holes as well.
< < READ CLOSELY > >
Be sure to put these two screws back in the same hole they came out of. IMPORTANT > do not tighten these two adjusters down. Only screw these in until they LIGHTLY seat. Now turn each adjuster one and one half turns outward. Before putting the slide back in the throat of the carb, move the clip on the jet needle one notch lower. Put the rest of the carb back together, clean the air filter and install the carb. Let the float bowl fill then start the engine. This process should get you back on the road.
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Posted on Jun 13, 2009
as you have replaced carbs you will need to retune for fuel intake also check its getting enough air ie.. air filter has been changed or is clogged
Posted on Jun 17, 2009
i would say the answer from polar cycle is good...but if it is not the case....you may take a look at crankshaft seal..sometimes the primary compression is not good if cranks seal leaks and it make the bike running lean in gaz and having you're idle getting up sometimes.........check the transmission oil if its low in quantity even after replacing it recently (this means that you're transmission oil is getting burn by you're motor) and also remove the magneto cover to see if there is gaz accumulation in that area...if so that means the seal leaks on the magneto side.....
Posted on Aug 15, 2009
Testimonial: "After finally rebuilding the carbs and replacing the reeds and air filter, the problem was actually solved by replacing the crank seal. "
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