Saddlebags What's the difference between how detachable and non-detachable saddlebags fasten to the rails on a Bullet? How easily do they go on and off? How difficult for non-detachables to go on and off? Some saddlebags sets are connected in the middle and do they need to be fastened to the bike under a seat or rack?

Fasteners are usually made from carbon steel. In fact, over 90% of them are made from this material. This is because carbon steel has many properties that make it ideal for industrial use, such as its workability, strength properties, and affordability. There are different types of 3 different types of carbon steel which have different properties.

These are:
1. Mild steels - Under 0.25% carbon content, inexpensive, great toughness and ductility.
2. Medium carbon - 0.25% - 0.60% carbon content, very ductile, good load carrying ability
3. Alloy steel - Either 1.65%+ manganese content, 0.60%+ silicon, copper content, 4%-chromium content, or contains a specified minimum content of aluminium, titanium, vanadium, nickel or any other element.

Other materials can be used in fasteners too. For example, I took a look at some supplier websites and found that some nuts, like the ones available at http://www.keyfasteners.co.uk/rail-nuts.htm, are available in many different materials, including steel, stainless steel, brass, bronze, light alloy and titanium.

If these are copper, the "spot welds" will be soldered connections.
Get a soldering gun, solder, soldering paste, and some copper wire. Practice joining bits of copper until you can do it quikly and without overheating the adjacent area. Then clean up the broken contacts and apply your new skill! Ta Da!!!!

I can't offer the exact answer, but hopefully my suggestions will be helpful...

Converting the crib to a full-size bed should actually be a fairly simple process of detaching the 4 sides that make the crib, and replacing the 2 short sides with the full-size bed rails that were sold separately in a conversion kit. The 2 long sides of the crib become the headboard and footboard of the full-size bed.

Unfortunately, it's only a simple process if you already have the full-size conversion kit bed rails. And since Morigeau-Lepine went out of business, they aren't making any more conversion kits. If you don't have the full-size bed rails, then this could be quite difficult.

It's possible that some stores that used to sell Morigeau-Lepine cribs might still have a conversion kit hidden somewhere in the back of their stock room or warehouse. You could try calling around to a few of your local stores to ask if they would check for you. It's a long shot, but it doesn't hurt to ask.

If you have the rails, or are lucky enough to find them, then it should be as simple as locating the screws that hold the crib sides together, removing them (most likely with an appropriatly sized hex-key,) and putting the screws back through the headboard and footboard into the bed rails. (I'm really just assuming that it works the same as the Babi Italia conversion.) If no screws are visible, or if removing them doesn't detach the crib sides, then they are probably also held together with locking bed rail fasteners. To release the fasteners, remove any visible screws, then push upwards on the short side rail while pushing down on the long side rail. You might have to tap the rail up with a rubber mallot to get it moving.

If you don't have the full-size bed rails, and you can't find them anywhere, your only option may be to build them yourself, or find a woodworker to build them for you. Search online for "Bed Rail Fasteners" and you'll see several options for hardware, but they might require modifying the headboard and footboard as well. Full-size matresses are 75 inches long, so you'll want the length of your rails to accomodate (ours are 77 inches long.)

I hope I've been helpful. Good luck!

relieve fuel system pressure. on the v6, detach the fuel return line from the fuel pressure regulator. remove the mounting fasteners, and detach fuel regulator from rail. on the v6 install the fuel return line before tightening the regulator mounting screws. otherwise a leak could develop. be sure to replace all O-ring seals, and coat them with a lite coat of oil. have a good one !!

The solution to this problem, unfortunately, will involve the destruction of two hinge pins; since the hinge is sold only as an assembly, the entire hinge will have to be replaced. I'm sorry about that, but I thought you ought to know that before you start the repair.

Look at each end of the hinge (on the outside of the bag); you will notice a hole and (it may take a flashlight to see it) the end of a hinge pin within. Those hinge pins will have to be driven toward the center of the hinge until the hinge halves separate; that's much less than an inch, but is SEEMS more like 30 feet. Use a nail set that fits loosely in the hole, or a hardened nail about the same size with the tip ground flat.

Once the hinge halves separate, you'll find that you can lift that side of the saddlebag cover only a very short distance; the nylon fabric hinge cover on the inside keeps the cover from opening more than a VERY few inches. The hinge cover is secured by 3mm hex bolts; use a 3mm allen wrench to remove the bolts and the saddlebag top should swing open far enough for you to get your hand inside.

Take a flashlight and examine high on the opposite side of the saddlebag, inside the bag just underneath the cover; there are two catches covered by a broad plastic shield. Use your 3mm allen to remove the plastic shield, then use a small socket to remove the bolts holding the catches to the bottom part of the saddlebag. You can now lift the top of the saddlebag off and reveal the bottom of the catch.

The cover of the catch is secured by 1/4-turn fasteners, you'll see the phillips-head slots. Turn the screwheads until all fasteners are obviously loose; the cover can then be removed. There is a bent catch actuator arm beneath; push the top (free end, well, actually MIDDLE) of the arm toward the outside of the saddlebag cover, and the catches you removed from the saddlebag can be freed and remounted on the saddlebag.

You'll see the bottom of the release button through the catch actuator assembly; push it out, back to its' normal position. You're likely to find one of two things wrong: the actuator arm (4XY-2841A-00-00) is bent or broken, the lock assembly (4XY-W2843-00-00) has a bent or broken actuator tab or lever. A bolt may also be missing from either the actuator arm or lock assemblies; that would typically cause misalignment or binding.

Replace the hinge, reassemble the saddlebag top with the appropriate repair parts, mount and take a nice, long ride to relieve the frustration.

The solution to this problem, unfortunately, will involve the destruction of two hinge pins; since the hinge is sold only as an assembly, the entire hinge will have to be replaced. I'm sorry about that, but I thought you ought to know that before you start the repair.

Look at each end of the hinge (on the outside of the bag); you will notice a hole and (it may take a flashlight to see it) the end of a hinge pin within. Those hinge pins will have to be driven toward the center of the hinge until the hinge halves separate; that's much less than an inch, but is SEEMS more like 30 feet. Use a nail set that fits loosely in the hole, or a hardened nail about the same size with the tip ground flat.

Once the hinge halves separate, you'll find that you can lift that side of the saddlebag cover only a very short distance; the nylon fabric hinge cover on the inside keeps the cover from opening more than a VERY few inches. The hinge cover is secured by 3mm hex bolts; use a 3mm allen wrench to remove the bolts and the saddlebag top should swing open far enough for you to get your hand inside.

Take a flashlight and examine high on the opposite side of the saddlebag, inside the bag just underneath the cover; there are two catches covered by a broad plastic shield. Use your 3mm allen to remove the plastic shield, then use a small socket to remove the bolts holding the catches to the bottom part of the saddlebag. You can now lift the top of the saddlebag off and reveal the bottom of the catch.

The cover of the catch is secured by 1/4-turn fasteners, you'll see the phillips-head slots. Turn the screwheads until all fasteners are obviously loose; the cover can then be removed. There is a bent catch actuator arm beneath; push the top (free end, well, actually MIDDLE) of the arm toward the outside of the saddlebag cover, and the catches you removed from the saddlebag can be freed and remounted on the saddlebag.

You'll see the bottom of the release button through the catch actuator assembly; push it out, back to its' normal position. You're likely to find one of two things wrong: the actuator arm (4XY-2841A-00-00) is bent or broken, or the lock assembly (4XY-W2843-00-00) has a bent or broken actuator tab or lever. A bolt may also be missing from either the actuator arm or lock assemblies; that would typically cause misalignment or binding.

Replace the hinge, reassemble the saddlebag top with the appropriate repair parts, mount and take a nice, long ride to relieve the frustration.

Hi Inlinespeed3, for more information on your question please visit the websites below and good luck:
http://www.harley-davidson.com/app-content/service/isheets/-J04409.PDF

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

Dont know where your relay is but generally relays are grouped together in a box under the hood or on a rail on the firewall. They are "plug in" units that can be easily repalced.The ones housed in a box are usually easier to service because there is a description usually inside the cover. Many times the relays are the same# serving different purposes. If thats the case, use a good one and plug it into different slots 'till the fan comes on (make sure engine is hot enough for this to happen) Be aware that a bad sensor will give you a similar problem (it won't tell the relay to go on)

I bought some cheapo leather bags off ebay that just hung over the seat/fended and tied off to the rails on the bike. I unbolted my stock seat and put them across the fender underneath and they worked well. When I changed to a solo seat that setup did not look all that good so I cut the web between the two bags and attacked them to the rails using rubberized clamps I got in the plumbing section at ACE hardware. I don't really like having saddle bags on the bike as far as looks but its nice to be able to carry a pump rain suitsbungie cords , tools and various other things with ease. Of course these are not readily removable but that can be a good thing. I kinda would like canvas bags with removable clip action to attach them to the bike, but I went cheap. ,,,

Very nice tool indeed. I have had mine since they first released it to the public but I have never had any problems with either size brads. Have you ever dropped the fastener? Check your rail for bends as it may cause the longer brads to be binding. If there are no bends, detach the rail and look to see if there is debris within the rail preventing a 2" length from advancing that would not otherwise affect the 1.5". If none of this seems to be the problem, return the brads to the store for replacement as the defect may be within the brads themself. Hope this is helpful.