Fork valve when should I open the valve on top of rhe fork?

Loosen the fork cap bolt from the fork tube plug at the top of the fork tube, but do not remove it at this time. THEN loosen the pinch bolt (with lockwasher) in the lower fork bracket, but do not remove it. THEN spray glass cleaner like Windex on the fork tube above the rubber fork stop and after so lubricating the surfaces move the fork stop up the fork tube until it contacts the bottom of the upper fork bracket. THEN, while holding the fork slider to prevent the fork from dropping, remove the fork cap bolt from the fork tube plug and slide the fork tube down and out of the upper fork bracket, the fork stop, the lower fork bracket, and the slider cover. THEN thread the fork cap bolt back into the fork tube plug to prevent loss of fork oil while handling the removed fork assembly. THEN move the fork to your work bench area and place a suitable drain pan on the floor underneath your vise. NOW or later you can similarly remove the other fork tube assembly.

IT IS HANDY to have a HD-41177 FORK TUBE HOLDER or similar tool.

On the first fork remove the nuts, the lockwashers, the flat washer and the axle holder from the studs at the end of the fork slider. THEN clamp end of a fork holder tool in your vise in a horizontal position with the tightening fasteners facing toward you and with the fork cap bolt at the top clamp the fork tube in between the rubber pads on the inside of the tool and tighten the fasteners to securely hold the fork tube assembly. THEN remove the fork cap bolt from the fork tube plug and remove and throw away the quad ring seal. Thenslowly unthread the fork tube plug from the fork tube being AWARE that the fork tube plug is under spring pressure which requires you to have a firm grasp on plug as the last thread is turned. THEN remove the O-ring from fork tube plug and throw it away. THEN remove the fork spring from the fork tube and remove the fork assembly from the fork tube holder. THEN turn the fork upside down and drain the fork oil into the drain pan by slowly pumping the fork tube and slider at least ten times being aware that the damper valve, if it has one, may fall out of the inverted fork tube while you are draining it. THEN With the wear ring at the bottom, i.e. with the spring side up, slide the damper valve back into the fork tube when it has been fully drained.

THEN for further disassembly install the fork spring back into the fork tube place a shop rag on the floor, and turn the fork assembly upside down and press the end of spring against the rag. Push down and compress the spring to prevent the damper tube from turning and then remove the6mm screw from end of fork slider with a strong short stroke impact wrench and 12 mm Allen socket adapter for best results. When the screw and washer are removed throw away the 6mm screw and copper crush washer. THEN remove the fork spring, the damper valve (if it has one) and the damper tube from fork tube. THEN remove the wear ring and the rebound spring from the damper tube and it has one, from the damper valve, if it has one. Then without expanding or stretching the retaining clip to avoid it becoming bent or distorted, remove it from the fork tube. THEN, using an appropriate pick tool, remove the retaining clip from between the fork slider and the fork tube and remove the fork tube from the fork slider. Use the fork tube as a slide hammerwith a moderate amount of force until the fork tube separates from the fork slider. THEN slide the fork oil seal, the slider spacer and the slider bushing off of the end of the fork tube and throw away the fork oil seal and the slider bushing. THEN gently pry at the split line to expand the fork leg bushing, and remove it from the groove at the end of the fork tube and throw away the fork leg bushing. THEN remove the lower stop fromthe fork slider.

THEN thoroughly clean and inspect all of the parts. And replace all parts that are bent, broken or otherwise obviously damaged. Inspect the fork cap bolt quad ring seal and the fork tube plug O-ring for cuts, tears or other signs of deterioration and replace whatever is necessary and/or prudent. THEN replace the retaining clip if bent or distorted and check the slider and fork leg bushings for scratches or excessive wear and always replace bushings in a set if either bushing is damaged or worn THEN also check the fork tube and the slider for scoring, scratches and excessive or abnormal wear and replace all parts as necessary and/or prudent. THEN set the fork tube on V-blocks and measure the runout using a dial indicator gauge and replace the fork if runout exceeds 0.008 in. (0.2 mm). THEN inspect the upper fork spring and the rebound spring for damage or distortion and replace the upper fork spring if the free length is less than 18.4 in. (467.3 mm) and replace the rebound spring if its free length is less than 0.938 in. (23.8 mm) or otherwise whenever the upper fork spring requires replacement.
To reassemble the fork coat the fork leg bushing ID with clean fork oil and then expand the fork leg bushing at the split line only so far as required to it slip over the end and into the groove of the fork tube. THEN install a new wear ring in the groove at the top of the damper tube and install the rebound spring on the opposite end. Now, with the wear ring on the top side slide the damper tube into the fork tube, so that the tube end drops through the hole at the bottom of the fork tube. Now install the lower stop at the end of the damper tube and put the fork slider back into your fork tube holder. THEN slide the fork tube into the fork slider. NEXT coat the slider bushing ID with clean fork oil and install the slider bushing down into the fork tube and then slide the slider spacer down the fork tube until it meets the slider bushing and then get your fork oil seal installer tool and it down the fork tube and drive the slider bushing and spacer into the bore of the fork slider and then remove the tool and THEN put some masking tape over the top edge of the fork tube to avoid damaging the lip of the fork oil seal during installation and then coat the new oil seal with new fork oil and install the seal with the garter spring facing into the fork tube and slide it down to the bore of the slider and the earlier installed spacer and then remove the masking tape and with your fork seal installation tool drive the seal down into the top of the slider until you can insert the retaining ring and then again remove the seal driver tool and install the retainer ring into its slider groove. NOW slide the fork spring into the tube and remove the fork assembly from your fork tube holder and with a shop towel or rag on the floor turn the assembly upside down and press the spring against the shop towel or rag and install a new 6mm screw with a new copper crush washer through hole at bottom of fork slider and start to screw it into the end of the damper tube. Continue to compress the spring into the assembly to stop the damper tube from turning and tighten the 6mm screw to 132-216 in-lbs (14.9-24.4 Nm). After this remove the fork spring from the fork tube and again clamp the fork slider (NOT THE FORK TUBE) into your fork holder tool with the fork tube on the top side and if it was previously removed install the drain plug at the bottom of the fork slider and tighten it to 72-96 in-lbs (8-11 Nm).

THEN refill with the correct amount of fork oil. It is very important for the correct and safe operation of the bike that the CORRECT amount of oil be installed. FOLLOW the correct procedures for doing this.

Depends on how much rebuilding you want to do.
See below:

FRONT FORK 2.16
CHANGING FORK OIL On a 2010 Touring Motorcycle 41 mm Fork
If only replacing the fork oil remove the for, clamp a fork holder tool in a vise in a horizontal position and with the fork cap bolt topside securely clamp the fork into the tool, remove the fork cap bolt, remove and discard the quad ring seal, carefully remove the fork tube plug from the fork tube and because it is under strong spring pressure have and maintain a firm grasp on the plug as the last thread is turned because it will want to fly upwards under the spring pressure, remove and discard the O-ring fork tube plug o-ring, remove the fork spring from the fork tube, remove the fork assembly from the fork tube holder tool, being aware that the damper valve if one is installed (All touring models, with the exception of Road King, have a damper valve type fork on both the left and right sides. Road King uses the conventional type fork on both sides.) will fall out when the fork tube is inverted for draining turn the fork upside down and drain the fork oil into a suitable drain pan while slowly pumping the fork tube and slider at least ten times and then allow about 10-15 minutes for the fork assembly to completely drain. THEN with the fork tube right-side-up securely clamp the fork slider (not the fork tube) into the fork tube holder, install the drain plug at the bottom of the fork slider, if it had been removed and tighten the plug to 72-96 in-lbs (8-11 Nm).

MODEL FORK TYPE AMOUNT
OZ. ML IN. MM
All models Damper Valve 10.7 317 4.92 125
Except FLHR/C
FLHR/C Conventional 11.0 325 4.92 125

Pour slightly more Harley-Davidson Type E Fork Oil directly into the fork tube than is specified for the fork type, slowly pump the fork tube until some resistance is felt and then pump a few more times and then for all models except FLHR/C (i.e. for damper valve type forks), install a new wear ring in its groove in the damper valve, with the wear ring at the bottom (spring side up) slide the damper valve into the fork tube, install the fork spring into the fork tube, use the fork spring to push the damper valve to the bottom of the fork tube, remove the fork spring from the fork tube, slowly pump the fork tube a few more times to eliminate air from the damper valve, adjust the ring of a fork level gauge 4.92 inches or 125mm and then with the fork tube bottomed in the fork slider insert the tube of the gauge into the fork slider until the metal ring rests flat on the top of the fork tube and use the gauge plunger to draw oil from fork (if no oil is drawn out, add a small amount to the fork tube and repeat the process) until the oil level is at the specified level in the fork slider, install the fork spring into the fork tube with the tighter wound coils at the bottom, remove the fork slider from the fork tube holder tool, clamp fork tube into the fork tube holder tool, install a newO-ring onto the fork tube plug, install the fork tube plug into the fork tube and tighten it to 60-70 ft-lbs (81.4-94.9 Nm), install a newquad ring seal onto the fork cap bolt and install it into the fork tube plug to prevent loss of fork oil while working further with it. THEN on right side fork, loosely install the axle holder with its flat
washers, lockwashers and nuts, install the fork and assemble the motorcycle.

To remove a 2010 Touring 41 mm fork assembly FIRSTraise the front wheel, remove the front wheel, remove the front fender, and for FLHR/C remove the headlamp nacelle. And for FLHX, FLHT/C/U, FLHTK remove inner fairing cap, and for FLTRX remove the instrument nacelle, loosen the fork cap bolt, but do not
remove it at this time, loosen the pinch bolt but do not remove it, hold the fork slider to prevent the fork from dropping, remove the fork cap bolt from the fork tube plug, slide the fork tube down to remove. And loosely install the fork cap bolt to prevent loss of fork oil while working with the fork.

DISASSEMBLY
To disassemble a 2010 Touring 41mm fork assembly FIRST remove the fork assembly, the right side fork remove the axle holder from the end of the fork slider, drain the fork, install the fork spring into the fork tube, place a shop cloth or towel on the floor, turn the fork assembly upside down, press the end of the spring against the shop cloth or towel to prevent rotation of the damper tube and remove the metric screw from the end of the fork slider with an air impact wrench, discard the screw and copper washer, remove the fork spring, the damper valve (if equipped) and the damper tube from the fork tube, remove the wear ring and rebound spring from the damper tube, remove the wear ring from the damper valve, (if equipped), remove the retaining clip using an appropriate pick tool, remove the fork tube from the fork slider by using the fork tube as a slide hammer tool, slide the fork oil seal, the slider spacer and the slider bushing off from the end of the fork tube, discard the fork oil seal and the slider bushing, gently pry at the split line to expand the fork leg bushing and remove it from its groove at the end of the fork tube, discard the fork leg bushing and remove the lower stop from fork the slider.

CLEANING AND INSPECTION
Thoroughly clean and inspect all parts and replace any parts that are corroded, bent, inoperative or otherwise obviously damaged, inspect the fork cap bolt quad ring seal and the fork tube plug o-ring for cuts, tears or signs of deterioration and replace if and as necessary, replace the retaining clip if is bent or distorted, check the slider and the fork leg bushings for scratches or excessive wear and always replace bushings in a set if either bushing needs to be replaced, check both the fork tube and the fork slider for scoring, scratches and excessive or abnormal wear and replace parts if and as required, set the fork tube on V-blocks and measure its runout using a dial indicator gauge and replace it if the runout exceeds 0.008 in. (0.2 mm), inspect the upper fork spring and the rebound spring for damage or distortion, and replace the upper fork spring if its free length is less than19.27 in. (489.4 mm) for Non-Fairing Models and 18.73 in. (475.7 mm) for Fairing Models and replace the rebound spring if its free length is less than 0.938 in. (23.8 mm) or any time the upper fork spring is replaced.

ASSEMBLY
To assemble a 2010 Touring 41 mm fork assembly FIRST coat the ID of the fork leg bushing with clean fork oil, expand the fork leg bushing at the split line only enough to slip it over the end of the fork tube and into its groove on the fork tube, install a newwear ring into the groove at the top of the damper tube, install the rebound spring on the opposite end, with the wear ring topside slide the damper tube into the fork tube so that the tube end drops through the hole at the bottom of the fork tube, install the lower stop at the end of the damper tube, install the fork slider into the fork tube holder tool, slide the fork tube into the fork slider, coat the ID of the slider bushing with clean fork oil, slide the slider bushing down the fork tube, slide a 41 mm fork seal installer tool down the fork tube and using the it as a slide hammer drive the slider bushing into the counterbore of the fork slider, then remove the tool, place masking tape over edge of the fork tube to avoid damaging the lip of the fork oil seal during installation, coat the ID ofa new fork oil seal with clean new fork oil, then with the lip garter spring side facing down toward the fork slider slide the seal down the fork tube until it contacts the slider spacer, remove the masking tape from the edge of the fork tube and using the 41 mm fork seal installer tool as a slide hammer, drive the fork oil seal down the fork tube until the retaining clip groove is visible above the seal in the ID of the fork slider, remove the tool, install the retaining clip in the groove, install the fork spring into fork the fork tube, remove the fork assembly from the fork tube holder tool, place a shop cloth or towel on the floor, turn the fork assembly upside down and press the end of the spring against the shop cloth or towel to prevent rotation of the damper tube, install a new screw and a new copper washer at the bottom of the fork slider and while compressing the spring tighten the screw to 132-216 in lbs(14.9-24.4 Nm), remove the fork spring from the fork tube, fill the fork with fork oil to the specified amount and complete assembly of the fork. On the right side fork, loosely install the axle holder with its flat
washers, lockwashers and nuts.

INSTALLATION
To install a 2010 Touring 41 mm fork assembly FIRST remove the fork cap bolt, slide the fork tube up and into the slider cover, lower the fork bracket, the fork stop, and the upper fork bracket, install the fork cap bolt, install the pinch bolt and lockwasher into the lower fork bracket and tighten the pinch bolt to 53-57 ft-lbs(71.9-77.3 Nm), tighten the fork cap bolt to 60-70 ft-lbs (81.4-94.9 Nm) and repeat these steps on the other fork, install the front fender and wheel, and for FLHR/C install the headlamp nacelle, for FLHX, FLHT/C/U, FLHTK install the fairing inner cap and for FLTRX install the instrument nacelle.

Hi paul..sounds to me you have to much fork oil in the forks mate.or you have the wrong grade oil in the fork legs...or if u have air valves on top of your fork stems.theyve been pumped up to much.but that would blow your seals..1st off.id drain the fork oil out .then replace with the correct grade oil.and oil level in each fork leg.

well first of all,,,,,you dont just top up the fork oil,,,,
you drain it all out and refill it with clean fresh oil....
the reson for this is,,how much oil is left in the forks?
if you over fill them with oil you will burst the top fork sead?? bad news that is! so find the drain plug (a nut or screw) at the bottom of each fork leg and drain all the old oil out first,,, then remove the fork top plug and tip in the right amount of the right grade of oil into each leg,,,then let it stand for a fuw minuets,,for the air to come out,,,do up the fork top plug and push the forks down a fuw times before riding it to spred the oil around inside the forks,,,oh,,by the way,,,change the fork oil yearly,,,,,

must take the fork out of the t-post. then open the top cover. drain remaining oil. push down top part of the fork until it reaches to the end. put oil leveling the top. pull the top part of the fork again. spring must be inside when filling it with oil.

hi buddy you unscrew the fork cap then pull it thrpugh a bit then below the fork cap will be the lock nut you need to hold the fork cap and lossen the locknut and it wil spin off

Your owners manual will help if you have one. There used to be drain plugs under each fork. The air valves help suspension smoothen the rides more.

Hi,
I am assuming the old oil is drained.
Once the tops are opened, lift the bike onto the center stand which will make the forks extend. Refill through the top of the fork with 12 oz of fork oil. The manual states that you must use oil with a weight of approximately SAE 3, and the amount going in needs to be equal in each fork.
Hope this helps

The anti-dive valves are easy to remove...
Place the bike on her center stand, and raise the front wheel with a jack under the front of the engine/exhaust.
first loose the 3-way connector on the lower fork part ( brakefluid ).
Remove the 2 screws that hold the upper part of the anti-dive system to the lower part. You'll see the plunger. When braking, that plunger should move about 2mm out. It must be possuble to push it back in place with fingerpressure. Then that part of valve is OK. All the parts of the plunger are separately available by a Kawasaki dealer.
The lower part of the ADVS is also easy. Just remove the 2 screws holding them to the fork tubes. The fork oil will drip out...
When reassemble, dont forget to bleed the brake hoses at the top of the plungers...
To remove the springs...
Loose both screws on the upper fork clamps.
Remove the rubber stops on the air valves
Bleed the air out of the fork pushing the air valves ( some have only 1 air valve, and an equilibration tube just below the upper fork clamp )
Remove both fork spring stops. Caution, hold them firmly down while unscreing, to avoid the stops jump away at the end of the thread!
On reassembly, the stops must be screwed at 2.3 DaN/m (17 lbf/ft ).
The quantity of oil is exactly 348cm³ in each fork. Must be filled without the springs. Push then the fork several times up and down to pump the new oil in all the valves. Then with the fork down, measure the hight between oil level and top of fork. That must be 379mm.

Hope this all helps...
Don't know about an air valve at the bottom of fork tubes...

while riding warm air is pressured out and to keep the suspension from getting rock hard you should open it every 2-3 rides.wait about 3 - 4 hors after finishing riding.