Wire clutch adjustment

The normal method is once the cable is lubed and located at the engine and lever ends, the cable adjusters at both ends need to be adjusted to give the correct inner cable slack. I normally apply grease to the outer sheath metal crimps (this ensures they move in the adjusters). I then make sure the engine end adjuster has a small amount of clearance between it and the clutch rod. The final adjustments are then made using the cable adjusters at the lever and engine ends. You need to have about 10mm free play at the lever end. Check the manufacturers hand book for the exact dimension. Please make sure you route the cable the same as the old one, also when you pull in the lever it should close quite sharply when released. If it returns slowly or is stiff to operate then recheck cable route and try adding more lube to the inner cable.

You may want to make sure the clutch cable is properly adjusted. At the clutch lever on the handlebars, pull back the rubber cover over the end of the cable where it goes into the lever. You'll find a round lock wheel that you tighten to prevent the clutch cable adjustment from moving. Loosen that wheel then you can turn the clutch cable adjustment in or out to adjust the clutch engagement and take up. For those bikes, you want to adjust it so that there is a small amount of slack in the clutch lever. Look at the "crack" where the lever pivots when you pull on it. Adjust the clutch cable by turning that adjustment in or out until you have just barely enough opening to slip a nickel edge into the very outside of that "crack" when you apply very, very light pressure to the clutch lever (just enough pressure to take the slack out of the lever). Tighten the lock wheel back into place and try it now. Also, make sure you are using a good, FIRM foot pressure to engage each gear. If you don't engage firmly enough or the adjustment is out, then it will pop out of gear. You notice it more on the lower gears because the lower gears allow the engine to send more torque thru the clutch, thereby providing more force to make it pop out of gear.

If this doesn't help, then take it to a shop to see if it's simple worn clutch disks (easy to replace on this bike) or if the gears have worn teeth in the transmission.

I'm not sure what you mean by "engage the clutch". When some people say this, it means the clutch won't disengage the engine from the transmission. Others say it and it means that the clutch will not engage the engine and transmission and make the bike move. It's the same way with the term "backfire". To some that's a pop from the exhaust, to others is a spit back out fo the carburetor.

Now, if you took the handlebars off, you should have only has to move the cable adjuster in the middle of the cable. If you did not change any adjustment at the primary, you should only have to the adjuster in the middle of the cable to worry about. Make sure that the cable housing is seated in the adjusters like it should be. It they are out of the adjusters, it would may your clutch stay in the "pulled in " position and the clutch will not engage the engine and transmission.

Now, when you pull the clutch lever in,you should feel the resistance of the clutch. If not, the there is the possibility that the cable came disconnected in the primary case. This is rare but I have seen it happen before. To fix it, remove the outside derby cover and you should be able to reconnect the cable with the clutch release mechanism in the primary. If you need a drawing of this area, contact me directly at [email protected].

Good Luck
Steve

Adjust clutch cable and "lifting mechanism",,, Loosen locknut on the adjuster SCREW ( gain access by removing the "plug" loctaed the furtherest to rear on left hand side of crank case, looks like a "cap" with a slot in it) and rotate screw IN untile you feel it lightly touch end of pushrod....now turn screw OUT 1/4 to 1/2 turn , then tighten the lock nut...... then use two wrenches to loosen the locking nuts on clutch cable, adjust so there is 4mm / 0.16 inches of free play when you slightly pull the clutch lever ..the measurement is placed at the gap of clutch handle and lever base where you see the cable attached into the handle....tis slight free play is to make sure the clutch is not "tight" engaged all the time.....when you lightly pull on lever watch the adjusting lock screw it will slightly rise...if you can not see it then place one finger on it as you pull lever. ck out pg 20 of manual at http://tinyurl.com/2cua6ak for clutch adjust, and pg 58 for cam chain adjust, and pg 78 to see blowup pic of clutch and adjuster

If just the lever tension then just follow the clutch wire to the end where there should be and adjuster nut, You can also adjut it from the clutch lever on the handle bar

If I recall correctly, the VStar engage/disengage point cannot be adjusted in terms of where in the range of the lever it is, something is not disengaged correctly. This typically indicates that there is too much freeplay . Reduce the freeplay just a tad and see if it resolves the problem.
clutch cables stretch with use and the adjustment at the clutch lever must be made on occasion. If there is no more adjustment at the lever, then follow the cable down and see if another adjustment is available. If not, you'll need to remove the cover to the clutch basket and find the adjustment there.
Now, just another thought. Bikes that have correct freeplay, but want to clunk and creep, may have sticky clutch plates/tension springs. This can happen when the oil is old or the bike has been sitting for longer intervals (previous owner?), or simply stuff accumulated and stuck to the plates. Not the most likely thing with your mileage, but don't completely rule it out.

Did you reset the clutch travle distance ? try adjusting the clutch lever/handle.

Pulling the lever releases the clutch. Disengageing it so you don't go. Ok, in order to engage the clutch fully, you release the lever and you must have at leas 1/4 inch free play.
If it is not going in gear easily, you probably have too much free play and you are not fully disengageing.. There is the possibility of an internal adjust ment Try the above and let me know how or if that works. Clutch lever pulled by closing your fist releases the clutch for shifting.

Hi. Does it have a adjustable lever???

dunno if that's backwards. Anyway: adjusted to just minimum sane play it barely engages with the lever fully in. If I would have to adjust the lever to any shorter position (for smaller hands) it would probably not engage fully. I understand there is an adjustment at the clutch arm down behind the gearbox. If I adjust there what will happen? I'm guessing I can wind that one in a bit then loosen the wire a bit. Will this solve the problem or will I be back at where I am now?,The arm only has limited travel, and there is a screw adjustment between the arm and the end of the clutch push-rod. Not sure what it is on the 1100s; it could be a hex headed bolt or an allen grub, but it's a bugger to get at because the swinging arm is so close. There's going to be some sort of locknut which will have to be slackened first. Make small adjustments, screwing in towards the 'box, and trying the clutch lever each time. ,,,