Question about 1996 Suzuki VS 1400 Intruder
How do I adjust my carburetor on my 1996 Suzuki intruder 1400 @
Hi, Paul it should be noted that the "AIR FUEL" mixture screw adjustment "ONLY" manages your idle and has no effect on any other circuit also any intake leaks must be repaired before the A/F adjustment procedure can be performed otherwise you will never obtain a proper idle and you will waste a lot of time chasing the impossible. The A/F mixture screw's purpose is to fine tune the fuel charge entering the combustion chamber. The following applies to both 2 and 4 stroke engines:
1. The mixture screw may be sealed at the factory with a Welch Plug please review the following video for removal.
2. The mixture screw manages a range of 3 complete 360-degree counterclockwise turns from the bottom/closed position.
3. The mixture screw should have a spring and o-ring for tension and sealing integrity.
4. Turn the mixture screw clockwise until it gently bottoms out, this makes the fuel charge very lean and the engine should not idle if it does then the pilot/idle jet is too big and needs to be replaced with the next size smaller.
5. Turn the mixture screw 1 and 1/2 turns counterclockwise to establish a baseline for starting the engine.
6. To fine-tune the idle circuit, adjust the mixture screw 1/4 turn in or out to achieve maximum idle RPM, wait 15 seconds between each adjustment for the idle to settle.
7. Never go past 3 full turns out this will make the fuel charge rich, foul plugs, and produce black smoke out of the exhaust, if the engine RPM keeps increasing past 3 turns the pilot/idle jet is too small and needs to be replaced with the next size larger.
8. After achieving maximum idle back out the mixture screw another 1/8 of a turn then adjust the throttle cable idle stop screw to 950-1050 RPM.
9. This procedure works great on 99% of all engines, for the 1% that demand a more robust throttle response on aftermarket monster fuel delivery systems additional tweaking outside the box may be necessary.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Suzuki Intruder VS1400 Service Manual
Suzuki VS1400 Owner Manual
Posted on Mar 10, 2019
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The Intruder does handle fairly well compared to its' counterparts of the cruiser class, by handling I would assume your talking about how well it behaves in turns...since this class of machine IS the cruiser type do not expect to keep up with the current or past generations of sportbikes as you will fall behind. The best scenario is SMOOTH sweeping turns, the suspension in its' current form cannot deal with irregularities in the road...sportbikes' suspensions are meticulously calibrated for these real world curcumstances...cruisers cannot do this. The raked out front forks of cruisers make for a very stable platform but are not designed to be turned hard. A simple modification that I would myself do if I had a cruiser, would be the addition of a fork brace...a chunk of aluminum that strengthens the two front fork tubes..so that they don't flex (As much!). In addition I would pay attention to the exaust setup, footpegs and any other hard parts that would interfere with agressive cornering(Lean angle).Some exausts hang SO far down on cruisers that they really limit how far you can bend er over...all that stuff needs to be removed, changed or modified so you can corner good up to the suspensions limit.
Posted on Nov 10, 2008
One the left-hand side of the bike (facing forward), there is cover plate just ahead of the drive shaft. Remove that cover (mine has 8mm bolts). The bleeder valve is under this cover. Go to an auto parts store and get a "one man bleeder kit" or if you have some plastic tubing that will fit over the valve, you can use that and a clean jar. Follow the instructions on the bleeder kit, or if you're using the jar and tubing, fill the jar about a quarter of the way with break fluid (use DOT4, but never DOT5!). Take the cover off the master cylinder up at the handlebars, place the tube over the end of the bleed valve (after loosening it a turn or two. Place the other end of the tube down in the break fluid in the jar. Work the clutch lever until you stop getting bubbles in the jar. Be sure to keep the fluid level up in the reservoir. Tighten the bleeder valve, remove the tubing, top off the fluid and replace the covers.
Be careful not to get brake fluid on anything. It will eat paint and mess up other things.
Posted on Feb 13, 2009
Did you sync the two carbs? If not the rear may be getting all the gas from the rear carb and none to the front. Twist throttle engine off and see if front carb cable is pulling the carb open.
Also unscrew the spark plug boot from the front spark plug wire and trim 1/8th inch off the wire and screw the boot back in. The plug wire end may be corroded on that wire.
Posted on Feb 08, 2010
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