Battert problem My battery light comes on when I'm driving, and the voltage jumps back and forth from high to low.

Late model cars tend to be almost completely computerised and the various switches simply send signals telling a computer to switch on the lights, wipers, heater, etc..

While jump starting, battery charging and so forth can cause a surge and damage one or more of the computers, most likely scenario is the dead battery has reset a computer or caused it to lose it's memory.
Chances are a clever fellow with a laptop and the right software will be able to restore functionality.

have the battery load tested and the alternator and voltage regulator bench tested
indicates very low voltage available for the ECM when additional loads are applied

your switch is not good try to double check your switch.

It has 2 possible solutions 1) fuel sending unit is going bad which the tank has to be dropped to change, 2) you have a bad cluster panel. Hope this helps

Get a volt meter, start your car and see how many volts your car is producing while running. Should be around 14 volts. May want to watch the meter for a while since your electric seems to fluctuate. Most voltage regulators are internal of your alternator. If you are getting a lot more or less than 14 volts while running, replace the alternator. If it is not charging, voltage will drop as vehicle runs, until battery is dead.

sounds like the dimmer switch is going bad.

This sounds like low battery voltage, have the battery tested and replace as needed.

Your lights burnt out because of too high of voltage. This is also probably the reason your battery is shot. There is a voltage regulator on the atv that regulates 12-15 volts from the stator. If it is not regulating voltage it can jump as high as 25-30 volts which in time will boil your battery and burn out your lights which are rated for no more than about 15 volts. Let me know what year your 500 is and I can help you locate the voltage regulator, Daniel.

Normally 4 wheel drive HIGH is engaged on the fly or as you are moving more than 10 km per hour or 10 miles per hour but 4 wheel drive LOW is engaged at around 3 to 5 mph. no more or you could ruin the transfer case. Try going from 2 high to 4 high by switching back and forth and then try 2 high to 4 low when idling along. What usually happens is the mechanics under the car freeze up or rust up and you have to switch back and forth to free it up.

try un-plugging the IAC motor,then start it,if it idles low and stays there then replace the IAC motor----if no change then you may have a knock in the engine and the knock sensor is telling the computer to change the timing to compensate for spark knock due to low grade fuel,so it advances the timing back and forth due to too high of rpm then too low and the computer doesnt know how to smoothen it out that fast,but eventually does.The check engine light would usually come on in this case