Clutch The clutch works fine, but the distance the lever needs to move to engage/disengage it is VERY short (like maybe an inch). Is there any way to adjust this so that I can better ease the clutch off, or is this just the way of these bikes? Do I have a clutch problem? Hopefully, I've explained well enough to be understood.
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If the chainsaw chain does not engage the clutch assembly might be worn out. The clutch is similar to an automotive clutch. The chain sprocket is attached to the clutch drum and there are clutch pads underneath. As the pads wear out the clutch assembly no longer engages with the motor and the chain does not engage either.
Clutch Band kit
Chainsaws are equipped with a clutch band, a steel band that wraps around the clutch drum and is activated by the emergency stop lever. If the lever does not disengage the chain does not engage. Check to be sure the stop lever is disengaged. Adjust the clutch band if necessary. Enter your model number to see parts for your chainsaw. Help me find my model number
Drum Brake
Chainsaws are equipped with a clutch band drum brake, a steel band that wraps around the clutch drum and is activated by the emergency stop lever. If the lever does not disengage the chain does not engage. Check to be sure the stop lever is disengaged. If necessary, adjust the clutch band drum brake.
This is too late, but for the next person: There is an extension spring around the cable attached to the blade engage/disengage lever.
On my tractor one end of the spring had the hook broken off or it. Because it is around the cable it is still in place but doesn't stretch when you engage the blade (so can't pull the pulley out and slacken the belt when you disengage).
The replacement is a few dollars and can be bought on ebay or Amazon.
go to this http://www.cmsnl.com/yamaha-rt1-19701971_model8356/partslist/A-09.html and then click on "view big image", this will give you a diagram of the clutch etc,, the adjustment (No. 26) may need looking at, or (No.11,12,) have broken.Basically you turn 26 in (clockwise) untill you feel light resistance then back off 1/2 turn (been years since i worked on one of these!) this should give you freeplay, have you just got the bike?, and do you think it has been stripped lately(ie the clutch). PS I am not affiliated with the web site i offered above, just a handy reference for you maybe? cheers
Pulling the lever releases the clutch. Disengageing it so you don't go. Ok, in order to engage the clutch fully, you release the lever and you must have at leas 1/4 inch free play.
If it is not going in gear easily, you probably have too much free play and you are not fully disengageing.. There is the possibility of an internal adjust ment Try the above and let me know how or if that works. Clutch lever pulled by closing your fist releases the clutch for shifting.
Bleed your slave cylinder on the sprocket cover and refill the hydraulic fluid. If you have any leaks you will get air in the system and it will not fully disengage the clutch. As for the 750, they have cable clutches and you just need to adjust the slack of the cable.
Some clutches have a small rod that actually pushes the clutch activation lever on the side of the bell housing. If this rod is out of adjustment, maybe bent or broken, it will not disengage the clutch. In that case, you would not be able to put it in gear. If it has something between it and the lever that keeps it pushed in too far, the clutch cannot engage and move the car. You might want to check the other end of that rod and see if it has been displaced. Have somebody push the clutch pedal while looking under the driver's side of the car to see what moves, so you can tell what to check and correct.
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