How to install clutch

You'll have to obtain a clutch disc alignment tool (pilot shaft).
Loosen the flywheel bolts just enough to move the clutch disc around slightly then, insert the alignment tool until the small end slides into the pilot bearing in the flywheel. It should be a firm fit, enough to hold the disc in place so you can re-tighten the flywheel bolts. Once tightened, pull the alignment tool out and carefully install the transmission. Good luck!!

Instructions

1. Remove the Old Clutch
   • 1Verify that your vehicle's clutch is the source of your problems and not the pedal-arm bushings, activating cables or the slave-master cylinder.
     
   • 2Unhook the positive battery cable, the clutch cable or hydraulic slave cylinder to get the transaxle ready for easy removal. Eliminate anything that may hinder your efforts, including exhaust pipes and the speedometer.
     
   • 3
   • Secure your car in a safe position before jacking up the front end.
     
   • 4Stabilize the engine with a jack below the oil pan. Remove the transaxle by undoing at least one engine mount.
     
   • 5Separate the engine from the transaxle by removing the bolts that surround the flywheel bell housing.
     
   • 6Push the transaxle away from the engine until the input shift clears the pressure plate.
     
   • 7Disengage the bolts surrounding the pressure plate and take it and the clutch disc out. Check to see if the flywheel's friction surface is scored, checked or has hot spots. Remove, machine and reinstall the flywheel, if needed.
     
   • 8Examine the pilot bearing (bushing) located at the flywheel's center to be sure the needle bearings are lubricated and that there's no galling. Also look for any oil leaking around the rear main engine seal.
     
   Replace the Clutch
   • 9Follow the instructions for replacing your car's clutch carefully to avoid having to remove the transaxle.
     
   • 10Check that the transaxle's input shaft isn't leaking; replace if needed.
     
   • 11Take out the flywheel and the old seal and install a new seal.
     
   Install a New Clutch
   • 12Clean the crankshaft flange before putting in the flywheel. With the flywheel on top of the flange, secure the bolts in a star formation to the specified torque for your vehicle.
     
   • 13Install the clutch disc and pressure plate. Prior to putting in the transaxle, attach the new release bearing to the release fork. The fork should move freely.
     
   • 14Hoist the transaxle into position and move it forward until the input shaft glides into the clutch disc's spindled hole. Do not apply force.
     
   • 15Reinstall any bolts or mounts that were removed to replace your car's clutch. Grab the transaxle, release the jack and lower your vehicle.
     
   • 16Consider replacing your car's clutch cable. If you don't replace the cable at least adjust it for the right amount of free-play.
     
   • 17Confirm that your clutch's self-adjusting action is performing correctly by depressing the slave cylinder's piston into its bore.
     
   • 18Drive your car to be sure your clutch is working properly.
     

George,

Obviously you have a major problem with the clutch and related items. Have you checked for a good Pilot Bearing in the end of the Crankshaft? Have you used a Dial Indicator with a Magnetic Base stuck to the Flywheel and indicated the main Pilot Hole of the Bell Housing to determine if it is perfectly centered in relation to the Crankshaft? If it is not concentric within less than 0.005" then you have to get some offset dowel pins made to correct the concentricity problem.

I don't understand the Pressure Plate problem. You state that 2 bearings failed in the Pressure Plate? You mean the bearings on the Clutch Fingers? I just don't understand this unless they were damaged while installing the transmission. As to tearing out the center of the Clutch Disc this can also be caused by the lack of a proper Pilot Bearing and proper bell housing alignment concentric with the Crankshaft. It is imperative when installing the Transmission to place it in Gear and lock the Tailshaft so you can align the spline while sliding it into the Bell Housing and Clutch Disc. Once up to the Bell Housing take it out of gear so you can align the Bolt Holes. Tighten the Bolts to factory Torque specifications. Also, the proper Throw Out Bearing and Clutch Fork including whatever the fork pivots on. I have encountered many Bell Housings and/or Blocks where the Dowel Pins or Dowel Pin Holes in the Bell housing have been as much as 0.090" out of specification in relation to Crankshaft Centerline. I used to be an NHRA Stock & Super Stock Racer and have built hundreds of engines and aligned an equal quantity of Bell Housings for the manual shift vehicles.

Another thing that is very important is the Face of the Bell Housing where the Transmission mounts to it must also be indicated to less than 0.002" in relation to the Crankshaft so that everything is properly aligned. All Transmissions must have the proper Front Bearing Retainer with minimal clearance to the hole in the Bell Housing. This is a must as the objective is to have a perfectly straight line alignment from the true centerline of the crankshaft all the way through the transmission. Equally important is the Transmission Tailshaft bearing and Slip Yoke on the driveshaft. It all inter-relates to a perfectly straight line in perfect alignment with the Crankshaft Centerline.

Hopefully this information will help you understand just how critical the alignment of the Crankshaft, Bell Housing and Transmission is to proper assembly and Clutch life. All parts must have the correct sizes and minimal clearances and Alignment for long life and reliability.

Rapid Robert

Disconnect the battery, disconnect the Hydraulic Line from the Slave Cylinder, Remove the Starter (2 bolts, 2 wires. Bolts are 14mm, 1 wire is 12mm, 1 plugs in), Remove the Driveshaft(s) (4 12mm bolts) Remove the 6 bolts from the bellhousing (4 are 14mm, 2 are 10mm)
Remove the bolt from the Transfer Case Mount, 12mm (only if it's a 4WD, if it's 2WD this doesn't apply), remove the 2 bolts that hold the Transmission Mount to the Crossmember (12mm or 14mm, it varies)
Slide the transmission back on the crossmember, away from the engine, I recommend running a ratchet strap across the frame to balance the transmission.
Remove the Pressure Plate from the Flywheel (Six 10mm bolts), Inspect the Pilot Bearing (if it needs replaced, you'll need to remove the Flywheel which is held on with six 18mm bolts, drive out the old bearing and drive in the new one, reinstall the flywheel, using Threadlocker on the bolts, torque the bolts to 100 ft lbs) Install the new clutch disc and Pressure Plate, with the centering tool inserted through the disc into the pilot bearing. Use thread locker on the pressure plate bolts and torque them to 20 ft lbs. Remove the centering/alignment tool after you've bolted it together
Remove old Throw Out bearing from input shaft on the transmission and slide the new one on. Slide the Transmission forward (make sure the input shaft slides into the pilot bearing, don't force the transmission into place or you could damage the clutch disc or break the input shaft) Torque the Bellhousing Bolts to 40 ft lbs (4 14mm bolts), Torque the 2 10mm bolts to 14 ft lbs, Install the Starter (torque bolts to 23 ft lbs), Reconnect Hydraulic Line to Slave Cylinder. Torque Transmission Mount Bolts to 30 ft lbs.
Reinstall Driveshafts, torque bolts on flange/yoke to 40 ft lbs. Fill Clutch Master Cylinder with DOT-3 Brake & Clutch Fluid, Open Bleeder Screw on Slave Cylinder and bleed the air out of the system, close bleeder screw.
Reconnect the wires to the Starter, Reconnect the battery.

Manual is not clear either, but do you have "3V" marks on the gears? You have the 3VZ engine, so I would use those.



To install:

1. Turn the crankshaft until the key groove in the crankshaft timing pulley is facing upward. Slide the timing pulley on so that the flange side faces inward.
2. Apply bolt adhesive to the first few threads of the No. 1 idler pulley setbolt, install the plate washer and pulley and then tighten the bolt to 25 ft. lbs. (34 Nm).
3. Install the timing belt on the crankshaft timing, No. 1 idler and water pump pulleys.

If the old timing belt is being reinstalled, make sure the directional arrow is facing in the original direction and that the belt and crankshaft gear matchmarks are properly aligned.

1. Install the lower (No. 1) timing cover and tighten the bolts.
2. Align the crankshaft pulley set key with the key groove on the pulley and slide the pulley on. Tighten the bolt to 181 ft. lbs. (245 Nm).
3. Install the No. 2 idler pulley and tighten the bolt to 29 ft. lbs. (39 Nm). Check that the pulley moves smoothly.
4. Slide the left pulley, facing the flange side outward. Align the knock pin hole of the camshaft with the knockpin of the timing pulley, then install the knock pin. Tighten the left camshaft timing pulley bolt to 80 ft. lbs. (108 Nm).
5. Set the No. 1 cylinder to TDC again. Turn the right camshaft until the knock pin hole is aligned with the timing mark on the No. 3 belt cover. Turn the left pulley until the marks on the pulley are aligned with the mark on the No. 3 timing cover.
6. Check that the mark on the belt matches with the edge of the lower cover. If not, shift it on the crank pulley until it does. Turn the left pulley clockwise a bit and align the mark on the timing belt with the timing mark on the pulley. Slide the belt over the left pulley. Now move the pulley until the marks on it align with the one on the No. 3 cover. There should be tension on the belt between the crankshaft pulley and the left camshaft pulley.
7. Align the installation mark on the timing belt with the mark on the right side camshaft pulley. Hang the belt over the pulley with the flange facing inward. Align the timing marks on the right pulley with the one on the No. 3 cover and slide the pulley onto the end of the camshaft. Move the pulley until the camshaft knock pin hole is aligned with the groove in the pulley and then install the knock pin. Tighten the bolt to 55 ft. lbs. (75 Nm).
8. Position a plate washer between the timing belt tensioner and the a block and then press in the pushrod until the holes are aligned between it and the housing. Slide a 1.27mm (3VZ-FE 1.5mm) Allen wrench through the hole to keep the push rod set. Install the dust boot and then install the tensioner. Tighten the bolts to 20 ft. lbs. (26 Nm). Don't forget to pull out the Allen wrench!
9. Turn the crankshaft clockwise two complete revolutions and check that all marks are still in alignment. If they aren't, remove the timing belt and start over again.
10. Install the right engine mount bracket and tighten it to 30 ft. lbs. (39 Nm).
11. Position a new gasket and then install the upper (No. 2) timing cover. refer to the illustration for bolt positioning.
12. Install the spark plugs.
13. On the 2VZ-FE, install the right engine mount insulator. Tighten the bolt to 47 ft. lbs. (64 Nm), the bracket nut to 38 ft. lbs. (52 Nm) and the body nut to 65 ft. lbs. (88 Nm). Install the No. 1 stay and tighten it to 38 ft. lbs. (52 Nm). Install the No. 2 stay and tighten the bolt to 48 ft. lbs. (66 Nm) and the nut to 38 ft. lbs. (52 Nm).
14. On the 3VZ-FE, install the control rod and tighten the bolts to 47 ft. lbs. (64 Nm). Install the right stay and tighten it to 23 ft. lbs. (31 Nm).
15. Install and adjust the drive belts.
16. Install the fender apron seal and the wheel.
17. On the 3VZ-FE, install the No. 2 stay and tighten the bolt to 55 ft. lbs. (75 Nm), the nut to 46 ft. lbs. (62 Nm). Install the No. 3 stay and tighten it to 54 ft. lbs. (73 Nm).
18. Install the coolant overflow tank and the washer tank.
19. Install the power steering reservoir tank and the cruise control actuator.
20. Connect the battery cable, start the car and check for any leaks.

the cylinder cut on an angle is what the long bolt should bolt to, put the cylinder below the handle bars, and drop the long nut down through the handle bars and into the cylinder, ( the hole in it should be threaded,) only start the bolt so it hangs onto the cylinder, then feed that into the top of the neck hole, where the handle bars slide into,, once the desired height is ok,, tighten that bolt, the cylinder will come up at an angle and tighten the neck and handle bars !! Good Luck

Removal & Installation To Remove:

1. Remove the transmission.
2. Install a flywheel locking tool.
3. Remove the pressure plate mounting bolts from the flywheel.
4. Remove the pressure plate and clutch disc.

To Install:

1. Insert a clutch disc alignment tool through the disc splines and into the flywheel pilot bearing. Pressure plate balance mark location
   
   
2. Install the pressure plate on the flywheel with a gap of 120° or more between the "0" balance marks on the flywheel and pressure plate. Hand tighten the pressure plate mounting bolts.
3. Tighten the pressure plate mounting bolts using a crisscross pattern 12 ft-lb (16 Nm).
4. Remove the clutch disc alignment tool.
5. Install the transmission.

1991-96 Models
See Figures 1, 2 and 3

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
3. Remove the transaxle assembly.
4. If the clutch assembly is to be reused, matchmark the pressure plate and the flywheel so they can be assembled in the same position.
5. Install flywheel holding tool T84P-6375-A or equivalent, in a transaxle mounting hole on the engine and engage the tooth of the holding tool into the flywheel ring gear.

Fig. Fig. 1: Install a flywheel holding tool in a transaxle mounting hole on the engine, and engage the tooth of the tool into the flywheel ring gear

1. Loosen the pressure plate-to-flywheel retaining bolts one turn at a time, in a crisscross pattern, until the spring tension is relieved, to prevent pressure plate cover distortion.
2. Support the pressure plate and unfasten the retaining bolts. Remove the pressure plate and clutch disc from the flywheel.

If the flywheel shows any signs of overheating (blue discoloration) or if it is badly grooved or scored, it should be refaced or replaced.

1. Inspect the flywheel, clutch disc, pressure plate, release bearing, pilot bearing and the clutch fork for wear. Replace parts as needed.

To install:

1. If removed, install a new pilot bearing using a suitable installation tool.
2. If removed, install the flywheel. Make sure the flywheel and crankshaft flange mating surfaces are clean. Tighten the flywheel retaining bolts to 71-76 ft. lbs. (96-103 Nm) on the 1.8L engine or 54-67 ft. lbs. (73-91 Nm) on the 1.9L engine.
3. Clean the pressure plate and flywheel surfaces thoroughly. Position the clutch disc and pressure plate into the installed position and support them with a dummy shaft or clutch aligning tool. If the clutch assembly is being reused, align the matchmarks that were made during the removal procedure.
4. Install the pressure plate-to-flywheel retaining bolts. Tighten the bolts in the correct sequence to 13-20 ft. lbs. (18-26 Nm). Remove the alignment tool.

Fig. Fig. 2: Position the clutch disc and pressure plate into the installed position and support them with a clutch aligning tool


Fig. Fig. 3: Tighten the pressure plate-to-flywheel retaining bolts to specification in the sequence illustrated

1. If the release bearing was removed, lubricate the release fork where it contacts the bearing and install the bearing in the fork.
2. Install the transaxle assembly.
3. Lower the vehicle.
4. Bleed the hydraulic clutch system, if needed.
5. Connect the negative battery cable.
6. Road test the vehicle and check the clutch for proper operation.

Block the front tires. Break the rear lugs loose. Jack up the rear of the truck at the center if possible. remove the wheels & brake drums. Remove the brake shoes,return springs & all the other hardware. Remove the differential cover & drain oil. If you have a posi the next step sucks. You need to remove the threaded pin from the housing & remove the axle retaining clips. All the while,being carefull of the spring in the posi unit. If no posi,then same procedure,minus the "pucker factor". After the axle is out,take a large flat blade screw driver or pry bar & pop the seal out. Keep in mind the axle bearing is probably gone too , so that's another procedure. Keep it apart,you'll be glad you did.

Hope this helps. Best of luck to you!
Greg

Removal & Installation

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
   
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
   
3. Remove the transaxle.
   
4. Gradually loosen the clutch pressure plate bolts, in a crisscross pattern. Support the pressure plate and remove the bolts. Remove the pressure plate and clutch disc.
   
5. Inspect the pilot bearing. If it is worn or damaged and does not turn easily by hand, remove it using a puller/slide hammer.
   
6. Check the flywheel surface for scoring, cracks or burning and machine or replace, as necessary.
   
7. Install a flywheel holder to keep the flywheel from turning. Loosen the flywheel bolts evenly and gradually in a crisscross pattern. Remove the flywheel.
   
8. Inspect the clutch release bearing for wear. Replace it if it sticks or does not turn easily.
   
9. Inspect the release fork for wear or damage and replace as necessary.
   

To install: Structural view of the hydraulic clutch system
Exploded view of the clutch assembly
Click to Enlarge Flywheel tightening sequence
Pressure plate tightening sequence

1. Lubricate the release fork fingers and pivot with molybdenum grease and install in the release fork boot.
   
2. Install the clutch release bearing on the release fork.
   
3. Install a new pilot bearing in the flywheel, if removed.
   
4. Be sure the flywheel mounting surface and the crankshaft or eccentric shaft mounting surfaces are clean. Remove any old sealant from the flywheel bolt hole threads and the flywheel bolts.
   
5. Install the flywheel.
   
6. Apply sealant to the flywheel bolt threads and install them hand-tight. Install the flywheel holding tool. Tighten the bolts, in a crisscross pattern, to 71–76 ft. lbs. (96–103 Nm).
   
7. Apply a small amount of molybdenum grease to the clutch disc splines and install the clutch disc on the flywheel, spring side toward the transaxle. Install a suitable alignment tool in the pilot bearing to position the clutch disc.
   
8. Install the clutch pressure plate, aligning the dowel holes with the flywheel dowels.
   
9. Install the pressure plate bolts and gradually tighten, in a crisscross pattern to 20 ft. lbs. (26 Nm). Remove the alignment tool.
   
10. Install the transaxle.