How to get plug wires off the coil pack

On an incline that you stopped on, dont under estimate that if your low on fuel it may not be picked up by the fuel pump, or your fuel pump may have went out. If you run low on fuel often or up & down hill on low fuel will cause your fuel pump to burn out premature, they even say not to run less than a qrtr tank to be safe, but todays cost in fuel usually people wait till the last minute (gallon) which puts a strain on the fuel pump as the gas cools the motor and incline and decline in roads will mimic a low tank. What doesnt make sence is you sprayed starting fluid which should have fired for a few seconds, which brings you to spark issues, check you coil pack plugs and wires, most likely coil pack over plug and wires should still fire even if a plug or wire goes bad, but the coil pack controls the power going to the wire then plugs.

Swapping coils is a waste of time-- as cop ford coils
act up when they feel like it & they do so often,about
one to the entire 8 every year.

I have never heard of moving a spark plug

All those ford trucks are terrible, just to get up in there,
how could you put yourself thru that

Not the coils,your very wrong there

If you have no professional scan tool to use in
Mode #06 --- you buy at least 4 coils from Rock Auto.Com

You start with any cyl you have a code for,if it doesn't
resolve the issue you replace the old coil and walk the
new one to the other codes PO 301 thru PO308

You may have several bad ones

One really bad one will set all sorts of codes
from PO 300,PO 301 thru PO 308, fuel tank sensor
& many others,very strange systems on ford products

I have seen on my Lincoln LS when scan tool software
didn't help & wasn't about to drive around with a scope
on a coil & the wires under the hood blowing around

You have to drive a ford cop ignition at least 20 miles
& they have to get hot.

I have driven for 2 weeks & gone out of state before
they failed

I take 2 coils & my notebook with software, if I go more than
100 miles,I have a travel kit--- that coil issue is so bad

Check engine light on ? Code's ? What engine ? 2.3 l 4cylinder or 3.ol v-6 This vehicle has coil on plug ignition system , not coil packs ! a coil per cylinder . If new coils an still has no spark , has no B+ voltage to the coil or the PCM isn't controlling them . Without testing i'd only be guessing as to the problem .If the repair shop you had it to can only say it had to be the coils , I'd find another shop to take it to !
Autolite Coil on Plug Ignition troubleshooting

1 coil pack is for cylinder 1 & 3 . The 1st & 3rd....moving back from the belts. 1 is on the top, three on the bottm of the coil. 2 & 4 should be the same, 2nd cylinder, 2nd back from the belts & top on the coil pack. 4 the last plug & lowest on the second coil pack. PLEASE NOTE: , A Handyman's Service manual, from an auto store can VERIFY THIS. My last experience was with the 1987- 1991 GM "Quad" 4 engines. One of the other experts on "FixYa" corrected a mistake I made on a newewr model. SO I WOULD CHECK this advise to A MANUAL. I was wrong on the other one I answewred, & do not want to add to your frustration. I have looked around my textbooks, I do not have one on that car, I have given it away.

Below is a brief description of the process, make sure you use AC Delco 43-103 iridium plugs, any other type or manufacturer will not perform well.

Remove the Air Resonator by undoing 2 - 10mm bolts on the left hand side, loosening the clamp around the air intake tube to the right of the mass air flow sensor, and the clamp where the air resonator joins the throttle body. Be sure to detach the mass air flow sensor wire from the resonator by undoing the plastic clip.
Now that you have removed the air resonators you have exposed the top of the coil packs of the 4.2L Inline 6 Engine. Each coil pack is held down by a 10mm bolt. Start one spark plug at a time and work your way from plug 6 (under the firewall) and forward.
With the 10mm socket loosen the bolt which holds the coil pack in place. No need to disconnect the wire there is plenty of play to pull the coil pack up and set it to the side.
Plug 6 is the hardest one due to lack of maneuverability; this is where the breaker bar or pipe comes in handy to loosen the tightness of the plug. Once it is loose you can put the bar or pipe to the side it should not be needed for the rest of the rest of the plugs.
With the 5/8's spark socket on the end of ether a 9" extension or a 6" & 3" Extension remove the plug. Make sure nothing falls into the hole. Now take your new spark plugs and insert it into the end of the 5/8 spark plug socket, should you choose; apply a thin bead of anti-seize to the spark plug threads. Insert the spark plug into the hole and start to tighten by hand to be sure you do not cross thread. Tighten the plug; be sure not to over tighten for fear of snapping the plug off, use your best judgment. Not reinsert the coil pack being sure the it is properly seated, and tighten the bolt back down.
Repeat above for plugs 6 through 2. Plug 1, closest to the front requires special attention see next step.
Plug 1 is not too hard to remove but does require special directions because there is a plastic wire channel/guard which runs across it. Undo the bolt using the 10mm open ended wrench. Once the bolt is loosened slightly pull up on the coil pack, rotate about 90 degrees to the left while at the same time slightly tilting at a 45 degree angel towards the wind shield to remove the coil pack and clear the wire channel / guard. Now return to step 3 direction when it comes to changing out the spark plug.
Now reassemble. Be sure to tighten the air intake tube clamp on the right, and left where the resonator connects to the throttle body. Tighten down the 2 bolts which hold down the air resonator; don't forget to re-clip the mass airflow sensor wire just behind bolt 2 on the resonator.
Note: Be sure to check the tube which connects from the air resonator into the engine. This tube is located under the resonator on the left in line with plug 1.

Hello, I will suggest you get these few tools before you with the replacement.
(1) Spark plug socket with rubber insert to hold plugs in place while inserting & removing.(2) 6inch extensions for your 3/8ths inch socket wrench,(1) Swivle Socket extension for your 3/8ths inch socket wrench.(1) 1/2inch socket for exhaust manifold screws. A little quantity of anti-sieze for the spark pluggs to be applied to the pluggs if they are proving difficult to get out.
Start with the 1st cylinder at the front of the engine on the passanger side.
STEP 1.
Twist & remove the spark plug boot from the existing plug.
STEP 2.
You have to use a very small flat edged screwdriver to open the clips that hold the plug wires together.
STEP 3.
Use a 6" extension & a 3" extension & your deep socket for the spark plug.
STEP 4.
Remove the first plug and replace the old plug with a new Bosch Platinum Plus 2 prong plug and use some anti-seize on the threads and tighten to the appropriate torque.
STEP 5.
Remove the old plug wire from the coil pack. It will be going to the 2nd coil pack (located to the rear of the first coil pack) and install the new plug wire in the coil pack.
STEP 6
Repeat steps 1-7 for plugs on 2 & 3.
STEP 7.
To remove Plug #4 which is the last plug on the passanger side,you have to remove the two (2) 1/2inch bolts that holds a bracket to the exhaust manifold. Make sure you spray the studs these bolts are on with some DW-40 or liquid wrench. The exhaust manifold studs might have a lot of rust & being difficult to turn nuts off without shearing off the stud. It has some sort of aluminum box ontop of this bracket with some sensor wires coming out of it, Slip the bracket off and simply lay it to the rear of the engine to provide better access to this last cylinder.

STEP 8.
Repeat steps 1-7 for plug #4 and then Remount bracket containing the aluminum box with sensor wires.

Upon completion of the passenger side,you now have to proceed to the driver side.
STEP 1. The first cylinder at the front of the engine the spark plug wire has a grey handle sticking up next to the A/C compressor. Using some pliers (needle nose plier) twist & pull this grey handle. The spark plug boot should pop out.

STEP 2.With the help of the small flat edged screw driver, unhook the spark plug wire clips that hold the wires together. There are 3 - One just after the 1st coil pack located at the front of the engine, another just on the other side of the valve cover and a small 2 clip located about 1/2 way back on the valve cover under the intake manifold.
STEP 3.Remove the spark plug wire from Cylinder #1 on the Drivers side
STEP 4.With the help of the small flat edged screw driver,press the 4 connection points on the grey handle that is attached to the wire,it will separate down the middle and allow you to remove the wire, Replace the wire with the new wire,you have to ensure you line up the rubber round plugs with the round holes in this grey handle & snap it back together with the new wire in place.

STEP 5.Hold the spark plug socket in your left hand down near the plug,feed a 6" inch extension below the A/C Compressor line (black pipe) and the A/C Compressor with your right hand and attach the spark plug socket into the extension.
STEP 6.Slip the socket onto the plug,afterwards,attach an additional 3 or 6 inch extension to the existing extension & attach your socket wrench.
STEP 7.Remove the plug & proceed to replace it with a Bosch Platinum plug & anti-seize on the threads. Feed the new Spark Plug wire over to the 1st coil pack & replace it on the coil pack.

It depends on which engine is in the vehicle. The 2004 Sonata came with two possible powertrains -- the 2.4 Lit L4, and the 2.7 Lit V6.

On the 4 cylinder engine, there are two coil packs and two ignition wires, Below each coil pack is a spark plug (#2 and #4 cylinders). The wire from # 2 coil pack goes to #3 spark plug, and the wire from #4 coil pack goes to #1 spark plug.

Photo:


Now the 2.7 Lit V6 requires you remove the surge tank (intake manifold) in order to access the spark plugs & wires on Bank 1 (Right Hand side of the engine).

Photo:

Up hills & under a load --could be the EGR Valve
as you have a high vacuum load

The temp goes up on hills & yes the coil packs
could break down. That won't show up in the service
bay the way a dealer tests it.

Not the Throttle Body or Injectors
Sounds good & makes them money
first.
That is what they do,after 3 visits & parting
with your money, then they will work on the misfire
Sad isn't it

Never go to a dealer. Try a local shop

The ignition coils are mounted on it. Just follow the spark plug wires.

you probably have Coil Packs. Each Coil Pack has a 2 wire electrical connector to it. There is one small bolt holding the Coil Pack to the Cyl Head, remove bolt, remove connector, remove Coil Pack, remove Plug, reverse & road test