I can get the rpm to drop to 1100 or so but it bogs down and wants to stall. if i crack the throtle it brings it back up to 2000+ briefly then bogs back down. When adjusted to idel above 2000rpm it runs ok for a while but even then still bogs back down and stalls.
Hi,
If you bike has been lying for a while there could be a build up of deposits in the carbs partially blocking the various air and fuel lines inside the carbs. If there is a fuel filter fitted that could be also be partially blocked. I would try draining some fuel through the carbs and checking to see if there is any muck coming out of the bottom of the float bowls. ( Screw in base of float bowl at side usually) If there is a load of muck coming out with the fuel chances are the carbs will need to be cleaned thoroughly. However before dismantling the carbs I would try draining the old fuel out and putting some fresh in the tank. There are video links about the net for carb cleaners which are added to the fuel. How good they work is open to question. Although unlikely, just to be sure, check if the bike runs any differently with the tank filler cap open a fraction. Although unlikely, if the air vent hole in the filler cap gets full of dirt or polish, the fuel cannot flow because of a partial vacuum in the tank. Good luck I hope you get it sorted.
Sounds like a vacuume leak
SOURCE: Engine stalls when engage in any gear from neutral.
CHECK THE SIDE STAND SAFETY SWITCH IS OPERATING
SOURCE: Proper start-up service for a 1980 Suzuki GS550L motorcycle.
Shoot WD40 into each cylinder to get them wet.
Change gearbox oil and oil filter. Use 10w40 motor oil in the gear box. Don't use any synthetic oils, oil marked "EC", or oil with "special" additives. Stick with the major brands; Pennzoil, Quaker State, Mobil or Shell. How bad is the rust inside the gas tank? I would consider a liquid tank liner if rusted. Google “ kreem fuel tank liner “ or go to www.http://www.4secondsflat.com/Fuel_Tank_Sealer.html
SOURCE: 1980 Rm 250 wont start and backfires
my carb was doing the same thing and i just took it off, took it apart cleaned it out with the air nozle on our compresser and a butter knife to cean out the stuff on the bottom of the bowl, reset the float and it was all good.
SOURCE: I have a Suzuki DRZ 125L and for some reason there
Always turn the fuel petcock off when your not riding the bike.The cocks leak and the fuel flows through the carb. through the intake, into the cylinder, past the rings and into the crank. This is possible death to your top end. The fuel washes away the oil on the cylinder wall !
I would do an oil change then let the bike run for a little while then do another oil change.This will help get the fuel out of the crank.Then another change after your next ride.I would even put a little extra oil with your fuel mix to help lube that cylinder and maybe smootout the idle. Dont run the bike to hard for a while,let the oil clean up the cylinder.(I hope) You may have scorched the piston and cylinder walls with the fuel in the oil.
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Here's the good and bad news, based on your expertise, the carbs will have to be removed to fix this problem. When you have all 4 carbs off and on a bench, remove the bowls, and floats from each carb. There is a small brass jet off to the side of the main jet that is called the pilot jet. These will have to be removed(small flat screwdriver) and cleaned up. they have tiny holes in them and they will get clogged up due to old gas and slight corrosion. This will straighten up the idling issue and the throttle will be much more responsive. I have done this to many different bikes and it is a common problem.
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