Intermittent FI (not flashing) on LED display and flashing red light.

fuel pump
,It could be a weak, faulty fuel pump, try this next time no start happens, try key on and off 5 times, without starting and wait 10 seconds between cycles. This sometimes brings the fuel pump prime up to pressure and engine will start.
press the helpful button

Sounds like an intermittent fuel pressure regulator problem, or the fuel pump periodically doesn't run when you turn the key on (electrical problem). When you turn the key to on, the fuel pump should run for a few seconds to pressurize the fuel delivery system (you should hear the pump running at the back of the car). His "fix" is to just do this twice to make sure the pump runs and the proper pressure is at the engine when you go to start the car.
I would check to make sure the pump runs for a few seconds with key on. I would also check the fuel pressure before and while trying to start the car (to make sure it is in the proper range).

I'd have to test when problem is ongoing. When you first turn on key, no crank, you should hear the pump run for a few seconds then stop. For initial prime, the computer doesn't need rpm signal. Engine cranking, the computer needs to see rpm signal or it won't ground the fuel pump relay. W/o rpm signal, no spark at the plugs and no fuel injector pulse. I know your talking about fuel, but, when problem is ongoing, check spark and fuel injector pulse, engine cranking.
Intermittent problems are a pain, have to test when problem is ongoing.

I think your reverse to park trick was a fluke,, I assume it turns over but since it is a 1995 you dont have a OBD 2 in the vehicle.
How to pull ECU error codes for 87-95 Pathfinders and Hardbody pickups:


The ECU is under your passenger's side seat. You can gain access to it by simply sliding the seat all the way forward and removing the plastic cover from the ECU. You can also remove the seat if you want, it makes access a little easier.

The VG30i ECU's have a tiny toggle switch on the side of the ECU with a small snap-in switch cover that must be utilized to select the diagnostic mode of the ECU. The 4-cylinder ECU and the VG30E ECU has a slotted switch that turns 1/4 or 1/2 turn clockwise and counterclockwise to do the same task. Some early 4-cyl HB ECU's have the switch as well. In any case it will have one or the other.

For 4-cylinder:
1. Turn the ignition switch on, but do not start the engine. All of the lights in the dash should be on.
2. Turn the 'diagnostic mode selector' screw on the ECU fully clockwise. The check engine light will go out. Wait 5 seconds, then turn the screw fully counter clockwise.
3. The check engine light will then begin to flash the trouble code. (number of long flashes is the 1st digit, number of short flashes is the 2nd digit)
4. To clear all stored codes and turn the check engine light off, turn the screw fully clockwise while it is in diagnostic mode. Wait 5 seconds, then turn the screw fully counter clockwise.
5. To keep the codes stored, simply turn the key off as the check engine
light is flashing and the ECU will keep all stored codes and the check engine light will remain on.

For V6:
1. Turn the ignition switch on, but do not start the engine. All of the lights in the dash should be on.
2. For VG30i: There is a little plastic tab you pull off of the side of the ECU(facing the door). A small toggle switch is behind it with 2 positions, "ON" and "DIAGNOSTICS". Using a small screwdriver or tool, move it to the diagnostics position. The red and green LED's on top of the ECU will blink simultaneously. One time, pause, then 2 times, three times, pause...so on for each mode, 1 through 5. Mode 3 is the most commonly used mode and will yield the ECU trouble codes you need to figure out what's going on with your engine.
For VG30E with slotted switch: Turn the 'diagnostic mode selector' screw on the ECU fully clockwise. The check engine light will go out. Wait 5 seconds, then turn the screw fully counter clockwise.
3. After it blinks both LED's 3 times move the toggle switch back to the on position. After about five seconds it will start to output out the diagnostic codes as with the 4-cylinder ECU. Note each code as it is displayed, the red LED flashing once for 10's, and the green LED flashing once for 1's. Meaning: One red flash and two green flashes means code 12.
4. To clear the ECU of any trouble codes, move the switch to the "DIAGNOSTICS" position then back to the "ON" position and turn off the key.

1986.5-1995 Nissan ECU Flash Codes(all engines)

11 Crank Angle Sensor/Camshaft Position Sensor.
12 Air Flow Meter/Mass Air Flow Sensor.
13 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor.
14 Vehicle Speed Sensor.
21 Ignition Signal.
22 Fuel Pump.
23 Idle Switch.
24 Throttle Valve Switch.
25 Idle Speed Control Valve.
28 Cooling Fan Circuit.
31 ECM.
32 EGR Function.
33 Heated Oxygen Sensor.
34 Knock Sensor.
35 Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor.
36 EGR Control-Back Pressure Transducer.
37 Knock Sensor.
38 Right hand bank Closed Loop (B2).
41 Intake Air Temperature Sensor.
42 Fuel Temperature Sensor.
43 Throttle Position Sensor.
44 ECCS Normal Operation.
45 Injector Leak.
47 Crankshaft Position Sensor.
51 Injector Circuit.
53 Oxygen Sensor.
54 A/T Control.
55 No Malfunction.
63 No. 6 Cylinder Misfire.
64 No. 5 Cylinder Misfire.
65 No. 4 Cylinder Misfire.
66 No. 3 Cylinder Misfire.
67 No. 2 Cylinder Misfire.
68 No. 1 Cylinder Misfire.
71 Random Misfire.
72 TWC Function right hand bank.
73 TWC Function right hand bank.
76 Fuel Injection System Function right hand bank.
77 Rear Heated Oxygen Sensor Circuit.
82 Crankshaft Position Sensor.
84 A/T Diagnosis Communication Line.
85 VTC Solenoid Valve Circuit.
86 Fuel Injection System Function right hand bank.
87 Canister Control Solenoid Valve Circuit.
91 Front Heated Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit right hand bank.
94 TCC Solenoid Valve.
95 Crankshaft Position Sensor.
98 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor.
101 Front Heated Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit right hand bank.
103 Park/Neutral Position Switch Circuit.
105 EGR and EGR Canister Control Solenoid Valve Circuit.
108 Canister Purge Control Valve Circuit

ECU Diagnostic Mode Procedures
Mode I - Exhaust Oxygen Sensor Monitor
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Use Mode I to determine if the Oxygen Sensor is functioning properly.

Warm the engine to normal temperature.
Run the engine above 2000 RPM under no load while looking at the ECU.
Make sure the GREEN LED goes on and off more than five times during ten seconds at 2000 RPM.
If the number of flashes are not more than five, replace the oxygen sensor. If the LED does not flash, check the sensor's circuit.


Mode II - Mixture Ratio Control Monitor
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Use Mode II to determine if the air/fuel mixture is cycling correctly.

Warm the engine to normal operating temperature.
Turn the dial on the ECU fully clockwise (or if you have a switch, turn it on).
After the LED flashes twice, turn the dial fully counter clockwise (or turn the switch off).
Run the engine above 2000 RPM under no load while looking at the ECU.
If the RED LED blinks simultaneously with the GREEN LED, the air/fuel mixture is cycling properly.
If the RED LED stays off, the mixture is more than 5% rich.
If the RED LED stays on, the mixture is more than 5% lean.
If the RED LED stays on or off above 2000 RPM, complete the diagnostics before beginning repairs.


Mode III - Stored Fault Code Reporting
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Use Mode III to retrieve all stored trouble codes in memory.
Use the above posted procedures.


Mode IV - Switch Operation Monitor
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Use Mode IV to determine if the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS), Starter circuit and/or Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) are in proper working order.

Turn the ignition switch on, but do not start the engine.
Turn the dial on the ECU fully clockwise. After the LED flashes 4 times, turn the dial fully counter clockwise.
Make sure the RED LED is turned off.
Make sure the RED LED turns on when depressing the gas pedal. If not, check or replace the Throttle Position Sensor.
Make sure the RED LED turns on when turning the ignition key the START position. If not, check or replace the starter.
Drive the vehicle with the ECU unbolted and within view. Make sure the GREEN LED turns on when speed is 12 MPH or more. If not, check or replace the Vehicle Speed Sensor.


Mode V - Real Time Diagnostic Function
-----------------------------------------------------------------------

Use Mode V to determine if the Crankshaft Position Sensor (CPS), Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAFS) and/or Ignition signal are working properly.

Start engine.
Turn the dial on the ECU fully clockwise.
After the LED flashes 5 times, turn the dial fully counter clockwise.
Make sure LEDs do not flash for 5 minutes when racing or idling the engine.
If it flashes, count the number of flashes, turn engine off, and see the following 3 paragraphs. Perform real-time diagnosis inspection and repair or replace malfunctioning part if present.
if LEDs do not flash for 5 minutes, turn engine off.

If the RED LED flashes 3 times for 1.5 seconds, check the Crankshaft Position Sensor. Check the harness continuity at CPS when the engine is stopped. Inspect the harness for dust and clean if necessary. Check the pin terminal at ECU for bends and remove them as necessary. Reconnect harness and recheck continuity. During real-time diagnosis, tap the harness connector or component and check if trouble code is displayed. If so, replace terminal.

If the GREEN LED flashes twice-3 times for 0.5 seconds, check Mass Air Flow Sensor. Check the harness continuity at MAFS when the engine is stopped. Inspect the harness for dust and clean if necessary. Check the pin terminal at ECU for bends and remove them as necessary. Reconnect harness and recheck continuity. During real-time diagnosis, tap the harness connector or component and check if trouble code is displayed. If so, replace terminal.

If the GREEN LED flashes 4 times for 0.2 seconds 3 times, check the ignition signal. Check the harness continuity when the engine is stopped. Inspect the harness for dust and clean if necessary. Check the pin terminal at ECU for bends and remove them as necessary. Reconnect harness and recheck continuity. During real-time diagnosis, tap the harness connector or component and check if trouble code is displayed. If so, replace terminal.

Hope this helps...
__________________

Hi, the computer is under the passenger's seat. Code extraction procedure is pasted below.

READING CODES Modes will not switch while the engine is running. The ECM automatically switches to MODE I when the ignition is switchedOFF.
1984-90 Vehicles With Dual LED System
The self-diagnostic system has 5 modes. To switch modes, switch the ignition ON and use a screwdriver to turn the mode select switch through the access port on the ECM. The inspection lights will begin to flash. When the desired mode has been entered, turn the screwdriver fully counterclockwise. The red LED and green LED perform different functions in different modes.
Mode I-
This is the normal vehicle operating mode. The green LED will indicate loop status. If the green LED is not blinking when the engine is running, the vehicle is in open loop, or the HO 2 S, O 2 S, or sensor circuit has a malfunction. If the green LED is blinking, the vehicle is in closed loop. If a malfunction takes place, the red LED and the MIL will glow, indicating a malfunction has occurred.
Mode II-
Both the red LED and green LED are used to monitor mixture ratio feedback control. The green LED will function as described in MODE I. If vehicle is in open loop, the red LED and green LED will remain on or off. In order for results to be valid, vehicle must be in closed loop. In closed loop, the red LED remains off if the system is running rich, comes on if the system is running lean, and blinks at the same time with the green LED if system is within 5% of the exact air/fuel ratio.
Mode III
-When this mode is accessed, the codes stored in the ECM's memory will be flashed by the green LED and red LED on the side of the ECM. The red LED will light first. This is the first digit of the trouble code; the green LED will flash next, showing the second digit of the code. For example: 2 flashes of the red LED followed by 1 flash of the green LED corresponds to Code 21.
Mode IV-
This mode is used for checking the throttle plate (TP) switch, starter, and vehicle speed switch status. When the TP switch or starter switch is activated, the red LED will briefly flash as the status changes. For VSS status, the green LED will remain off when vehicle speed is less than 12 mph (19 km/h) and come on when vehicle speed is greater than 12 mph (19 km/h).
Mode V-
This mode represents a real-time diagnostic test of the crank angle sensor, ignition signal and the mass airflow signal. The malfunction code will be displayed only when the malfunction occurs and will not be stored in memory. The output code will appear as a single or short string of pulses. Count the number of pulses for the malfunction code.



1 pulse-CMP sensor signal lost or noise in signal 2 pulses-MAF Sensor signal abnormal 3 pulses-Fuel pump circuit shorted or open 4 pulses-Ignition signal lost

First things first...Rewiring the fuel pump will only put a "Bandaid" on whatever the problem really is and will most likely create a situation where wires are draped across places where they shouldn't be, causing all kinds of future electrical problems. I have had to clean up that type of mess too many times.That type of "shade-tree" repair makes proper diagnosis and repair of a vehicle nearly impossible, even by a trained technician. My recommendation: DON'T EVEN THINK ABOUT IT!

OK, Now that I have my preaching out of the way...
The check engine light is supposed to come on every time you turn the key to the "On" or "Run" position before starting the engine. This is for a "bulb-check" just to let you know that it is not burned out. It should go out immediately after the engine starts and should stay off the entire time you are driving the car. It is not any type of indicator to let you know that the fuel pump has run. If your check engine light is not coming on every time you turn the key to "On", then there is probably a problem with your ignition switch or your ECM Main Relay. Either of these can cause an intermittent failure of the ECM to power up, a)d thus, not turn the check engine light on. Failure of the ECM to power up will also cause the fuel pump to not run because like the check engine light, the fuel pump is controlled by the ECM. (Rewiring the fuel pump will not make the engine start if this is in fact what the problem is.)

I have also seen many fuel pumps that run when they want to. You could have a bad fuel pump, but refering to your statement about the check engine light, I would guess that the fuel pump is not the main problem or even if it is a problem at all.

The way to approach this sreies of issues is to first remove the remote start/alarm from the equation and restore the vans electrical system back to original. From there, if it persists, we can do more trouble shooting. Let me know and I can walk you through the process. This is definately a problem that does require a diagnostician. Thank you for the level of detail you provided!

1. CHECK THE MAIN FUSEAND FI INGN FUSE IF OK THEN GO TO 2.
2. MAKE SURE ENGINE STOP SWITCH IS NOT ON.
3.MAKE SURE THAT FI RELAY IS CLOSING. TURN ON KEY SWITCH AND THE FI LIGHT SHOULD COME ON. THEN CHECK TO SEE IF 12VOLTS IS AT RED/WHITE WIRE COMING FROM RELAY ( RELAY IS UNDER THE SEAT)
NOW IF THIS SO YOU SHOULD HAVE SPARK AT THE PLUGS. IF NOT SOMETHING IS SHORTING THE ENGINE CONTROL MODULE. MAKE SURE THE BIKE IS IN NEUTRAL
AND THE IGNITION PULSE GENERATOR IS GOOD

I thing it is definitely the fuel relay. I had the same problem. The relay is quite big and it is located and bolted under the dash on the driver side, brown in color. You can't miss it.

yes there is on the pully on top there should be a line and it should line up with the one one the bottom pully on dohc models line both lines up on top if posible and dot and arow should line up on bottom pully.]
ps ; if timein is off ur valves will probally be warped then if so i wouldnt even fool with it unless it has value to u