Have tryed to bump start bike but rear wheel locks up still. bike was running fine then it cut out and lost all power. so i put clutch in took it out of gear & pulled off the road. it restarted drove for about 2 mile then just locked up. i have taken engine out & checked the gear selector but it isn't that. so i poured a mix of oil & petrol down the spark plug holes & left it for a bit, & that seams to of released the pistons. as they are moving now. so am going to take heads apart & replace the pistons, piston rings & sleaves.
ok, well now that i know the events leading up to this i would agree the engine is seized. how many miles (kilometers) on the clock? was the engine oil level low when this happened? ok, well now that i know the events leading up to this i would agree the engine is seized. how many miles (kilometers) on the clock? was the engine oil level low when this happened?
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No use changhing the piston / rings / sleeve .,you need to split the engine and replace the crankshaft and con rod bearings.although renew the piston kit complete..
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well i would say it had dropped a valve on one of the cylinders,its very hard to say which one but usually if it did it at speed it will have made a bit of a mess in the head.Take each of the spark plugs out and have a look in the spark plug hole on each cylinder with.a small powerful torch and look for bent metal or metal fragments.usually on a v twin its the rear cylinder that suffers as it runs hotter but its not always the way.
Hi just a thought as myself have never herd of this before.
If when you have yoused the kill switch when its at a stand still,and you put the kill switch back on and it starts,then it is quiet possible it could be a safty feature so if you came off the bike and the bike was laying on its side on the ground the back wheele wont keep spinning,just a thought as it is happening to the two bikes.
Check for failed bearings with the engine in neutral and then roll it back and forwards. If there is only a small bit of movement you may have a locked gearbox (in one of the gears. Or it could be the shaft drive mechanism) try and rotate the rear wheel bearings with the wheel removed from the bike. This will tell you if the fault is with the wheel or the transmission.
Put the transmission in neutral with the engine OFF. Try to push the bike. If the bike will not roll, something has your rear wheel locked up and it's stalling your engine when you let the clutch out. Check the rear wheel and drive belt. There should be a bit of back and forth roll. You're transmission will not go into neutral. You may have a shifter problem inside of the transmission.
If you are in gear when your rear tire locks up, that will also stall out your engine. Conversely, if your engine seized up while you were in gear, that would lock up your rear wheel from the other direction. However, as it sounds like you can restart your engine, that's probably not the case. One way to check is that if your wheel starts to lock up, immediately pull in the clutch. Your engine should keep running, even as your rear wheel is skidding along.
If the problem is in your rear wheel, there aren't a whole lot of things to check. This bike uses a rear drum brake, so check to see that's not binding in any way. I suspect that it won't be. A stronger possibility is that your rear bearings are worn out or insufficiently lubed. If they get hot enough and expand enough, they'll seize up your rear wheel. Pulling the rear wheel and cleaning / lubing the bearings would eliminate this possibility. If the bearings are dark colored and/or have flat spots, that's a sure sign that they've been abused and need to be replaced. A third possibility that comes to mind is that your chain and rear sprocket might be excessively worn. An old chain, with one or more rusty links, could kink up and jam. I once bought a bike with a nasty old chain and it did this on occasion. It would work fine for a while, but then kink up. Replacing the chain (and the sprockets, because they, too, were very worn) solved the problem for that bike.
Put the bike in a high gear, take out your plug, put the bike on a stand then try to roll the rear wheel. If the wheel rolls, and you can feel air chugging out of the spark plug hole, the piston is moving up and down, and it is not locked up.
If your rear wheel is locked up in first and second gear with the engine running, this is not a good sign. Have you ever ran the bike without oil in the transmission? Every time I've seen this, the chain was thrown off the bike and it busted the cases. The oil leaked out of the cases and the transmission locks up. Generally, it locks in fifth gear but it could lock up in any or no gear.
Your problem sounds like something is wrong with the low gear-second gear "clutch gear". The clutch gear is gear that slides sideways on one of the transmission shafts to engage the proper gears. If the bike will roll when in neutral, these may be the only gears affected. If the bike will not roll when in neutral, your problem may be in countershaft. Either way, the transmission could be damaged.
Now, if you're talking about the rear wheel locking up if you try to push start the bike, this is because in low and second gear, there isn't enough mechanical advantage in the transmission to overcome the engine compression. Remember, you transferring torque through the transmission backwards when you try to push start the bike. Try starting the bike using third or fourth gear instead. Standing on the pegs and dropping onto the seat when you release the clutch helps.
It's normal for the check engine light to take from 0 to a couple seconds to turn off. The computer runs a system check. Put an oil pressure gauge on the bike and watch it closely. If your pressure drops when the bike loses power, the engine may be locking up from lack of oil. Another possibility is your lean-angle cut-off switch is defective. The switch cuts power to the bike in case you lay it down. Harley also has had problems with their fuel injection system losing power for no apparent reason.
ok, well now that i know the events leading up to this i would agree the engine is seized. how many miles (kilometers) on the clock? was the engine oil level low when this happened?
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