I have the same issue. A not very reliable garage told me not to use the electric start because some of the teeth had worn on cogs inside but as I said, they were unreliable. Also, the battery can run down quickly on these bikes esp. in winter which would reduce the use of electric start.I have the same issue. A not very reliable garage told me not to use the electric start because some of the teeth had worn on cogs inside but as I said, they were unreliable. Also, the battery can run down quickly on these bikes esp. in winter which would reduce the use of electric start.
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Your first option is to check the basics.
Is there fuel in the tank? Yes, I know that sounds silly but I have done it!
Check that the fuel lines all the way from the tank aren't blocked.
Is there a fuel tap, (petcock), fitted? They usually have a gauze filter built into them that might need cleaning.
Is the fuel filter a new one?
When was the last time the carb was overhauled?
You should replace the fuel also as fuel deteriorates over time.Drain the tank and replace with new fuel.Also drain the carb.as it will still have old fuel in it.
Not always necessary to change the regulator/rectifier. Check all connections to make sure they are clean, use a good contact cleaner and finish off with dielectric grease on your electrical connections. When some bikes get a few years on them the connections get dirty. Check to see if there are any burned or discolored wires anywhere around the regulator. The FIX on some bikes is to cut the connector completely out and solder the wires together and either seal them with heat shrink of a good electrical tape. Loose or bad connections get hot. As long as the regulator and rectifier are working there is no need to replace them if the connections are good. Ride Safely, Ed
Check the battery negative cable if its tightened well to the frame or the engine, check too, the fuse box and the main wire to the starter solenoid and the connections to the starter too, this sounds to be an electrical lose connection somewhere..just go along throught the wires and connections..
Hope this helps!
Hi, I'd check that one of the brakelight switches isn't stuck on, as if it's the park light it should put the front one on as well, some bikes have the headlight/taillight hardwired so come on with ign. on. The starter should have a fuse, check it, if ok, follow the main wires from the starter motor to the solinoid & check power's getting through with a test light (an old globe with a length of wire will do), the solinoid should have one large power cable to it from batt. with full time power, another the same going to starter that get's power when start button's pressed & a smaller one which should get power when start button's pressed (activates solinoid). if it is getting power to the starter when button's pressed, starter probably needs new brushes or just a good clean out, hope this helps.
your best try is to contact your dealer, and get them to order you the short red wire that runs from the + terminal on the battery, to the starter soleniod ( also has a thin red wire that runs to fuse holder) i had exactly the same problem and this solved it. i have however re done all the electrical connections on my bike using 7amp wire and bullet connectors, as i have had many faults with the electrics before.
My bike is a Kymco Cruiser 125 (almost exactly the same bike, i use kymco zing parts when replacing) i paid approx £16 GBP for the wire.
I have the same issue. A not very reliable garage told me not to use the electric start because some of the teeth had worn on cogs inside but as I said, they were unreliable. Also, the battery can run down quickly on these bikes esp. in winter which would reduce the use of electric start.
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