My truck is a 1986 F150 V8 ext. cab
Well know the wire you replaced would have helped a little more but I am going to take a guess and say you melted a wire more than likely to to high amperage. This usually means that there is a shorting problem in the system. Trace to what the wire went to or came from and you'll probably find that you burned that component up. It still doesn't tell you why it happened though so you'll have to diagnose why the wire burned or melted in the first place.
SOURCE: location of alternator 1986 ford f150 xlt lariat
Well first have you charged your battery back up, if so then try to by pass the ingintion switch by just connecting the two main post of the colenoid with a piece or wire, this creates a direct wire basically from your battery to your starter, if still no luck you will need a new starter located more to the drivers side close to right under the pedels on the bottom side of the truck.
SOURCE: 95 F150 wont crank
the starter should be replaced. The solenoid is kikcing the pinion out but there is no contact being made to turn the starter motor. I have the exact same truck and before i changed the starter used the old starter tap trick. Tap the starter casing with a hammer and it should start turning again. hope this was helpful for you. Good luck.
SOURCE: in my 2004 F150 FX4, i replaced the idler pulley
check ur fuse relay box it might be out also check ur hot wires make shure they dont have touching the ground
SOURCE: truck won't start
You should check your battery cables with an ohmmeter and see if they have any resistance,they should be at 0 ohms or just alittle over,but could possibly be the starter solenoid also.I had this same problem with my Toyota last year,hard starting sometimes needed a jump and then the alt went bad,turned out to be the solenoid was shorting intermittantly.Hope this helps.
SOURCE: ford f150, 2004 ford 4x4, 4.6l - kills battery, turns over but wo
You need to find the current drain. Charge the battery, then disconnect the Negative terminal. Now connect a 12v tester or a automotive lamp between the terminal and the battery post. This will put the tester/lamp in series with the current flow and they will light if there is any current drain. So assumming the light is on, now pull fuses one at a time until the light goes out. Remember to keep the door light switch from being activated as that will cause it's own current flow. Do not turn on the ingition since the failure happened over night while the truck was off and closed. There will be a normal very small current flow all the time to power the radio preset memory and perhaps an alarm but that flow will barely light the lamp. If the lamp is blown due to a real high current flow then you will neet an ammeter with about a 50 amp current rating.
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