Pulled off the fuel pump on my TE 450 08 after it would not start. found that where the hose hooks onto the fuel pump it had broken off the nipple. husky put it thru as a warranty claim (better cause its $1300 for a new one). my question is has anyone had this problem, husky said it was due to vibration. after 10 months use and a 1000 km's i hope it will not be a reaccuring problem.
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The Leak Detection Pump (LDP) filter in a 2005 Ram 1500 5.7L Hemi is located under the vehicle, near the fuel tank. The hoses for the filter connect to the LDP, which is also located under the vehicle.
Here are the steps to follow to replace the LDP filter and connect the hoses:
Raise the vehicle using a jack and support it on jack stands.
Locate the LDP, which is a small black box located near the fuel tank. It has a wiring harness and two hoses attached to it.
Disconnect the two hoses from the LDP by squeezing the tabs on the connectors and pulling them off.
Remove the LDP by unplugging the wiring harness and removing the bolts that hold it in place.
Remove the LDP filter by pulling it out of the LDP.
Install the new LDP filter by pushing it into the LDP.
Reinstall the LDP by plugging in the wiring harness and tightening the bolts that hold it in place.
Reconnect the two hoses to the LDP by pushing the connectors onto the hose ******* and pressing the tabs to lock them in place.
Lower the vehicle off the jack stands.
It's important to note that the hoses for the filter are different sizes, so make sure they are connected to the correct nipple on the LDP. Also, make sure the new filter is installed in the correct orientation, with the arrow on the filter pointing towards the LDP.
This is very important that the connections are correct. The fuel is pulled through the carburetor to purge all the air before starting. Air will keep the fuel pump from refilling the carburetor when attempting to run.
A filter is attached to the end of the fuel tube located in the tank. This hose is the fuel pickup and passes through a tight hole in the tank. The other tube is the return also from the carburetor and is open on the end returning inside the tank also fitting through a tight hole in the tank.
It is easy to reverse these tubes. If one has cracked it is likely all need to be replaced. Take pictures and take notes before starting.
Reversing the hoses allows for unfiltered fuel to fill the carburetor with the result of plugging the jets.
Check out epartsreplacement.com and there is a video on there you can watch that talks about fuel line replacement. It is a very helpful video Tom. Good luck
The small diameter line out of fuel tank (has filter in-tank on end) connects directly to the side of the carburetor that has the fuel pump....that is the cover without the hole in it. Other larger diameter fuel line out of tank connects to the longer nipple on the external purge/primer bulb. The bulb "pulls" fresh fuel from the fuel tank to the carb and then out of the carb to itself, where it then "pushes" any air/old fuel back into the fuel tank. The remaining larger diameter fuel line in this setup goes from the metering chamber (has cover with writing on it and a vent-hole) side of the carburetor to the smaller nipple on the purge/primer bulb. Again, on the primer bulb, the longer nipple has a line going directly from it to the tank. This is the return line. The shorter nipple on the bub has a line from it going to the metering chamber side of the carb. If the purge/primer bulb is on top of the carb...small line from carb body to small hole in tank with filter. Larger diameter line goes from the bulb on the fuel pump side of the carb to the larger hole in the fuel tank where sometimes the line is held in place with a nylon nipple connector that keeps the line from pulling out of the tank. Otherwise, the line should enter the tank for about 1/2" or so.
Both lines do go to the bottom of the tank. One is the supply line (has in-tank fuel filter on it) and the other is the fuel return line (only needs to be in the tank for 1/2" or 1". It does matter which nipple on the external primer bulb the lines connect to. One sucks in and one pushes out. If you push on it with your finger covering one of the nipples, it is easy to tell if it is sucking or pushing. It will make a little pop, when you remove your finger if it is sucking. Here is the lowdown. The small diameter line out of fuel tank (has filter in-tank on end) connects directly to the side of the carburetor that has the fuel pump....that is the cover without the hole in it. Other larger diameter fuel line out of tank connects to the longer nipple on the external purge/primer bulb. The bulb "pulls" fresh fuel from the fuel tank to the carb and then out of the carb to itself, where it then "pushes" any air/old fuel back into the fuel tank. The remaining larger diameter fuel line in this setup goes from the metering chamber (has cover with writing on it and a vent-hole) side of the carburetor to the smaller nipple on the purge/primer bulb. Again, on the primer bulb, the longer nipple has a line going directly from it to the tank. This is the return line. The shorter nipple on the bub has a line from it going to the metering chamber side of the carb. If the purge/primer bulb is on top of the carb...small line from carb body to small hole in tank with filter. Larger diameter line goes from the bulb on the fuel pump side of the carb to the larger hole in the fuel tank where sometimes the line is held in place with a nylon nipple connector that keeps the line from pulling out of the tank. Otherwise, the line should enter the tank for 1/2" or so.
The small diameter line out of fuel tank (has filter in-tank on end) connects directly to the side of the carburetor that has the fuel pump....that is the cover without the hole in it. Other larger diameter fuel line out of tank connects to the longer nipple on the external purge/primer bulb. The bulb "pulls" fresh fuel from the fuel tank to the carb and then out of the carb to itself, where it then "pushes" any air/old fuel back into the fuel tank. The remaining larger diameter fuel line in this setup goes from the metering chamber (has cover with writing on it and a vent-hole) side of the carburetor to the smaller nipple on the purge/primer bulb. Again, on the primer bulb, the longer nipple has a line going directly from it to the tank. This is the return line. The shorter nipple on the bub has a line from it going to the metering chamber side of the carb. If the purge/primer bulb is on top of the carb...small line from carb body to small hole in tank with filter. Larger diameter line goes from the bulb on the fuel pump side of the carb to the larger hole in the fuel tank where sometimes the line is held in place with a nylon nipple connector that keeps the line from pulling out of the tank. Otherwise, the line should enter the tank for about 1/2" or so
The small diameter line out of fuel tank (has filter in-tank on end) connects directly to the side of the carburetor that has the fuel pump....that is the cover without the hole in it. Other larger diameter fuel line out of tank connects to the longer nipple on the external purge/primer bulb. The bulb "pulls" fresh fuel from the fuel tank to the carb and then out of the carb to itself, where it then "pushes" any air/old fuel back into the fuel tank. The remaining larger diameter fuel line in this setup goes from the metering chamber (has cover with writing on it and a vent-hole) side of the carburetor to the smaller nipple on the purge/primer bulb. Again, on the primer bulb, the longer nipple has a line going directly from it to the tank. This is the return line. The shorter nipple on the bub has a line from it going to the metering chamber side of the carb. If the purge/primer bulb is on top of the carb...small line from carb body to small hole in tank with filter. Larger diameter line goes from the bulb on the fuel pump side of the carb to the larger hole in the fuel tank where sometimes the line is held in place with a nylon nipple connector that keeps the line from pulling out of the tank. Otherwise, the line should enter the tank for about 1/2" or so
You must run the fuel line through the back of the tank and out the filler hole,make your connections,i used a small amount of vaseline to make the connections.Then pull the filter into place,make sure some of the nipple of the filter pokes through,then slide the retainer ring on the hose and force it onto the filter nipple.
The order of fuel travel should be:
Fuel filter to fuel hose to Carb's Fuel Supply nipple. (On the main body of the carb)
Primer Plate Nipple on carb to fuel hose to Suction Nipple on Primer Bulb. (It must pull fuel thru the carb, not push)
Pressure Nipple on Primer Bulb to fuel hose to Fuel Tank Return hose.
When correctly installed, the fuel will be PRESSED into the fuel tank via the return hose when primer is pressed in . . . and SUCTIONED out of the tank and into the Carburetor when primer in released.
You will need a straight-head screw driver and possibly a 1/4 inch nut driver.
The hoses are held by white plastic retaining clips that you pop off with the screw driver. My new filter came with new retaining clips in case the old ones break during removal. The filter itself is held in place with an adjustable strap like one you would use for any hose. You can use a screwdriver, but I prefer to use the nutdriver to avoid mangling the screw.
You can change this filter without having to actually put your body underneath the vehicle. Jack it up at the rear jackpoint just fore of the rear right wheel. The filter is slighty forward from there. You can lay on the ground next to the vehicle and just reach under to change the filter. It is about the size of a regular coffee mug. It is cylindrical in shape with one end rounded with hose nipple and the other end flat with hose nipple.
Before removing the fuel filter I tried pulling the fuel pump fuse (15A fuse #9 in the power distribution fuse box in the engine compartment next to the battery) to bleed the pressure off the line. The engine however never died, but acted as if it would, so I shut it off. I did not know where to actually disconnect the pump. Pulling the fuse seemed to help anyway. The hoses were not under pressure, though still about a half-cup or so of fuel still leaked out, plus the fuel in the filter itself. That's normal.
1. Start engine, pull fuse, wait for engine to choke, turn off.
2. Jack up car, use Jack-stand for safety.
3. Pop clips, pull off hoses.
4. Loosen strap, remove old filter.
5. Reverse for installation.
i have the same problem bike wont start no more.
bike from 07/2008 and 1400km
dealers replay same as yours
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