Its a little jurkey when i give it throttle

it sounds like your fuel filter is ready fr a change and that your main jet might be blocked or needle and seat might need checking cheers

It appears the you have a clutch pressure plate problem in that it is slipping and overheating to fade condition. Check for oil level as most bike clutches run in oil. Check clutch cable adjustment. Check cable for kinks and split wires.

Just a thought as you asked...sounds like a poor throttle position potentiometer ... throttle cabled to butterfly most likely and if ECU dosen't know throttle plate moved you will see this symptom . If electric throttle , can you see(hear) plate moving whilst twisting , if so measure resistance/voltage on pot. . I do not know if resistance of position sensor can be measured while twisting throttle or pushing plate (bike off , battery disconnected or ignition off)
Luck
Hugh

If the batterys seem low you should get a batery tender. If they act like they're just not getting enough gas. Pull the throttle a few times to make sure gas is getting to the cylinder, try cranking it as you are pulling the throttle on the first couple of pulls then let it set a few seconds then start it, it should crank.

fuel system may need to have solids (trash or water) removed.Clean tank, hoses and filter. If you find trash in any of these, the carbs are next to be cleaned out.

Not sure exactly what the problem is but if I had to take a guess, I'd say that it is running lean and once it's good and hot, it's just a bit too lean to idle correctly.

The bikes come jetted or mapped, depending on whether its a carbed or fuel injected bike, on the lean side to meet EPA emissions standards. The addition of the V & H pipes probably made the situation worse.

If it's a carbed bike, you need to change the low speed jet up one size and add a 0.020" inch thick washer under the needle. Try just changing the jet first.

If it's fuel injected, I don't know because I don't work on the injected model bikes, you'll have to take that to the dealer and see if they can remap the fuel system control for you.

no your totally wrong the backfire is bcause if u juice the throttle there is excess fule in the cylinders witch give it no where to go so it ignights and creates a backfire witch is not necessarly bad.

Anytime a bike sits for that long you stand a chance of fuel system problems. It sounds like you may need to "boil out" the carburetors and of course resynchronize them with vacuum gauges when you put it back together. You can also use a mercury manometer for synching the carbs. My guess is you have varnish still in the float bowls that is causing erratic running and perhaps the vacuum operated slides are not working correctly.

and I absolutely love it (aside from the broken headlight!) but I was wondering what the deal was with the seeming variations of paint finishes on the Military bikes? Mine and many others that I see have the flat olive drab finish, while there are others that I see with a very glossy finish, and in some cases, pinstripes. What's the deal with the variances -- are the glossy finishes and pinstripes the result of custom modifications? Also -- huge problem while riding. I know she's a brand-new bike (only 25 miles) so there are probably some break-in kinks that need to be ridden out, but this bike dies on me all the time. Unless I'm CONSTANTLY giving the bike throttle, it'll just die. Whenever I go to stop at a stop sign and am in first gear, the moment that throttle is let go, the bike just dies. It seems like I have to constantly pull the throttle on the bike to keep her running, it just does NOT want to idle. Also been noticing some small problems in shifting -- never seems to shift as smooth as other bikes I've been on, and I'm not sure if this is because it's a brand-new bike, or just older technology -- I'm totally new to all of this so I'm really not sure. Any ideas?,The shifting gets smother within 1000 miles, I have 1300 miles and rarely have any false neutrals or as clunky shift problems any more. Like Scotty said give the throttle screw a turn to increase idle( should turn by hand located on the carburetor). I did have a loose carburetor to cylinder head(jug) rubber boot loosen on me and was leaking air making the idle rough on my bike .After I repositioned the boot back on and tighten the clamp at the carburetor I never had the problem return.,,,

everything working perfect. Wednesday night i was riding home from work and got about halfway home bike had a small bog while coming up for a turn onto another street pulled in the clutch and stall. Rolled to a stop and fired the magic button. The motor would turn over and act like it wanted to run (had to give a small amount of throttle) for about 2-3 seconds and then would die. Did this about 5 times and the typical dead or low batter clicking occured. Got the bike home and it has been on the tender for the last 2 days and i just put some time in on the bike and sure enough bike will turn over although kida sputtering and making slight backfire sounds (almost as if timing is off) and will run for about 2-3 seconds and dies. I can do this about 4-5 times and the infamous clicking starts to happen again. Now my bike has never been a cold start bike, i always have to give it a bit of throttle when its cold to keep it running, but once it warms up runs like a champ...or atleast it used to. Its a fairly new battery and has been kept on the tender when the bike is not used for a few days. Now the other thing that bothers me is it seems that oil may be seeping out from where the head and the case meet, but very little. The motor does have a slight coating of oil around the gasket area. I did send the motor to ATK back in late 04 or 05 and had the reliability and upgrade done to it but have only about 500 total miles on it since then, with about 400 of those in the last coulple of months. ,Even with a good bike battery 4-5 tries is about all they have.So forget about the battery and go with basics fuel,compression and spark. Also sounds like you need some mapping help, you should never have to touch the throttle when starting. The will run perfect if they are tuned. Do you know what map is in it? Did ATK also change the ECU to a .atj map?,,,