Sticking Rear Brake

if drum brake check / renew wheel cylinder

The throttle is sticking. Bike stand the machine. Follow the line.Lubricant the sticking point.

Could be sticking disc brake caliper(s), or sticking rear wheel cylinder(s). If one wheel locks up before the others, that would likely be the problem caliper or cylinder, since that brake wouldn't fully disengage, and would therefore be dragging (which would accelerate the wear on those brake pads or shoes, also).

notorious for that
your brake maybe worn out pistons are sticking out.when sitting,they cool an ease off.
to fix: while doing this.it maybe a good idea to replace the brake.
remove the piston .
i used wet or dry sand paper 1000 grit dipped in brake
fluid to sand them lightly.especially where you see a ring
around them. PLEASE BE VERY CAREFULL sometime air pressure is used to dismantal

You need to identify which brake light switch is sticking, simply unplug one switch at a time to determine the problem. It is possible that a brake light wire is chaffed and causing a problem but the most likely suspect is are the brake light switches. You can use a volt ohm meter to see if the switch circuits open and close when the brakes are applied.

Rust can build up in the rear calipers between the bracket and pad. This causes the outside pad to stick. When 15,30,45,60k etc services are done at a dealership, cleaning the rear brakes is a normal part of the service.

3 possible issues:

1) the cable is not moving through the housing freely. There could be a burr, a bend, a worn end or just simply rust in the housing and that is binding the cable up, not allowing for the return spring to happen and essentailly stick closed. Rock and Roll cable magic lube is the a great solution for the sticking cable. If it is bent or the end is worn then you need to replace.

2) The springs on the actual brake are binding. There should be an adjustment knob on the brakes to adjust the tension. If this does not work, then check the cable binding again.

3) The pads and/ or springs have some sort of problem. You can remove the pads and springs, clean and replace and see if the pads themselves are just sticking.

If none of these solutions work then you will need to go into a bike shop and have the mechanic look at it. You may have a broken part somewhere in the brake or lever or both.

Good luck, my guess is it is just sticking and cleaning the pads and lubing the cable will get it to stop sticking. By the way any bicycle lube will work down the cable, the Rock and Roll is just a special cable lube for sticky situations.

your parking brake shoe could be sticking on ur rear wheels

The Timberwolf has a cable operated brake system, not a hydraulic so there is not a master cylinder. Most likely causes are: mud in brake drum, broken/weak return springs (inside brake drum) or a sticking cable. Take off rear wheel to access the drum, and then remove the drum. The problem should become clear. BTW..hydraulic brakes use brake fluid, not oil.

Should be fairly easy if you are used to working on bikes in general. Disconnect rear brake torque arm from the brake housing and the lever from the cam arm (moves the rear brake shoes out when twisted). Remove the split pin from the castellated nut; remove the nut; loosten the axle pinch bolts and remove the axle. Pull the wheel back and to the right to clear the drive splines. Reassemble torque values are 77.4 ftlb for the castellated nut and 4.5 ftlb for the axle pinch bolt.