Question about 1999 Suzuki VS 1400 Intruder
Is the clutch has to do something with this problem. or is there a engine mount on this bike
Hi Eric, and the usual suspects are:
1. Wheels and/or tires worn or damaged.
2. Engine/transmission/vehicle not aligned properly.
3. Primary chain badly worn or links too tight as a result of insufficient lubrication or misalignment.
4. Engine to transmission mounting bolts loose.
5. Upper engine mounting bracket loose.
6. Ignition timing incorrect/poorly tuned engine.
7. Internal engine problem/flywheels shift.
8. Broken frame.
9. Stabilizer links worn or loose.
10. Rubber mounts loose or worn.
11. Rear fork pivot shaft nuts loose.
12. Front engine mounting bolts loose.
For more information about your issue, please visit the websites below, and for specific information or questions you can reach me at firstname.lastname@example.org. Good luck and have nice a day.
Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e
Posted on Sep 27, 2015
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The carbs should be synchronized every 20k miles. If you are having a roughness in idle then I would recommend the carbs being synched. If the problem is at higher RPM's I'd check to see if the motor has a harmonic dampener that can be adjusted. This often resolves vibration issues. I'm just not sure if this bike has one. These big bikes usually have some sort of adjustable dampening device internally.
I'd also like to have you check the motor mounts. This is a common problem if your bike has any rubber in the motor mounts. The rubber wears or even breaks and you often cannot see it until you actually try to remove the mount. Often they will fall apart in your hands.
These big motors all vibrate a bit so many of the manufacturers have realized that adding modified motor mounts is helpful.
Posted on Dec 19, 2008
One the left-hand side of the bike (facing forward), there is cover plate just ahead of the drive shaft. Remove that cover (mine has 8mm bolts). The bleeder valve is under this cover. Go to an auto parts store and get a "one man bleeder kit" or if you have some plastic tubing that will fit over the valve, you can use that and a clean jar. Follow the instructions on the bleeder kit, or if you're using the jar and tubing, fill the jar about a quarter of the way with break fluid (use DOT4, but never DOT5!). Take the cover off the master cylinder up at the handlebars, place the tube over the end of the bleed valve (after loosening it a turn or two. Place the other end of the tube down in the break fluid in the jar. Work the clutch lever until you stop getting bubbles in the jar. Be sure to keep the fluid level up in the reservoir. Tighten the bleeder valve, remove the tubing, top off the fluid and replace the covers.
Be careful not to get brake fluid on anything. It will eat paint and mess up other things.
Posted on Feb 13, 2009
2001 Intruder electric starter does nothing. All other electrical is fine... The lights are on, horn works, all lights; but starter doesn't respond.
Posted on May 11, 2011
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