Gauges blow fuses,brake and turn signal lights dont work

Unfortunately, it sounds like you have a short in the wiring or in the gauge cluster itself.

There are multiple ways to diagnose this issue, however they do take a certain level of diagnostic and electrical circuit knowledge.

One of the easier ways that requires minimal invasive testing is to remove the gauge cluster from the vehicle and disconnecting the cluster itself. It is usually only a few fasteners and panels. Most novice technicians and hobbyists can do this type of work.

After doing so, replace the fuse #33 (10A) GAUGE with a new fuse, and start the vehicle and let it idle. See if the fuse blows after 5 minutes. If it does, you know the issue is on the control, or circuit, side. If it does not blow, replace the cluster or have it rebuilt.

If you need remove & replace data for the cluster, let Me know!

If the tail lights, low fuel light, temperature gauge, and fuel gauge are not working, there could be several possible causes:

1. Blown Fuses: Check the fuses for the tail lights, low fuel light, temperature gauge, and fuel gauge. If any of these fuses are blown, replace them with a new one.
2. Loose or damaged wiring: Inspect the wiring for the tail lights, low fuel light, temperature gauge, and fuel gauge. Look for any loose connections or damaged wires. Repair or replace any damaged wires and ensure all connections are tight.
3. Faulty sending units: The low fuel light and fuel gauge are connected to the fuel sending unit in the gas tank. The temperature gauge is connected to a temperature sending unit on the engine. Check these sending units for faults, and replace them if necessary.
4. Faulty instrument cluster: The instrument cluster itself could be faulty, causing the temperature and fuel gauges to not work. A qualified mechanic can test the instrument cluster to see if this is the issue.

It's also possible that the trike has a separate electrical system for the tail lights, and that this system is malfunctioning. A qualified mechanic can test the trike's electrical system to determine the cause of the issue.

If the temperature gauge in your 2001 Ford E150 cargo van is not working, there are a few potential causes:

1. Faulty temperature sensor: The temperature gauge in your van is controlled by a temperature sensor, which sends a signal to the gauge to display the engine's temperature. If the sensor is faulty or has failed, the gauge may not display the correct temperature or may not work at all.
2. Wiring issues: If the wiring that connects the temperature sensor to the gauge is damaged or broken, the gauge may not display the engine's temperature correctly. Check the wiring for any damage or loose connections.
3. Blown fuse: The temperature gauge is powered by a fuse, which can blow and cause the gauge to stop working. Check the fuse box for any blown fuses and replace them if necessary.
4. Instrument cluster issues: If the temperature gauge is not the only gauge that is not working, the problem may be with the instrument cluster itself. In this case, the instrument cluster may need to be repaired or replaced.
5. Faulty gauge: It's also possible that the temperature gauge itself is faulty and needs to be replaced.

Gauges have their own fuse. Under dash fuse panel. If it keeps blowing, you have a short to the power wire.

no my answer, dont buy that $500 PCM yet.
the Gauge fuse , see bottom left, above. runs lots of things,
the FSM covers this, fully 100%
it runs the Flasher module, the ECM, the integration module (BCM like) that runs interior lighting and many things off the IM.
if the fuse only blows, while blinking , id inspect all 4 corner lamps
id check the wires there and then replace all 4 lamps. if you
dont know how to bench test a lamp. then just replace them.
Gauge , (funny huh) runs the Alternator, if it shorts, boom the Gauge fuse blows. as you can see finding a short is not easy,
you never said how soon it blows. so,,,,, if quicky, id run it
with no alt connected. rear plug IG Plug pulled. do so for no more
that about 15minutes, the battery will drain fast (no head lights please,or fans for heater, no electrical things on, flashers on for sure.)
see???
there are 30 pages, to see all IG1 power feed wires.
i didnt try to find them all.
but that is my point, if you dont have the book or alldata.com login
then all this is pure wild speculation and guessing.
I did this for a living, so ,know the ropes.
once I have this information, i then use my ammeter to find it.
see a area MASTER here, do that.
Duane
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TZrCrBx4uFY

and chris.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n5FJDgcdii8

in your case you know what fuse blows. (stated wrong)
and with that , fact i can attach my ammeter, and the pull
modules to find which one has the active short.
in the case if the blinker module is passing excessive current
I then drop off the lamps loads from the flasher module
if that shows that my short is gone then the lamps are shorted.
i can even measure all 4 lamp wire feed to read this short with my ammeter and my CB.
using this.
http://www.fixkick.com/tools/25100B.jpg

http://www.fixkick.com/tools/25100.jpg
below.
this the red fuse below is GAUGE. the module on the right is the Flasher module.

It could be a short in the instrument cluster-maybe one of the non-working gauges. You could pull the cluster out and try to find it, or just try another cluster from a salvage yard.

Walker Muffler - Aluminized Steel Direct OE Replacement 1998-2001 Dodge Ram 1500.-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
SLIM HID XENON light

take out the plastic panel on the drivers side in the cargo area. tucked inside the body where the taillight wiring is you will find about 6 to 8 wiring plugs. disconect all of them (dont forget to mark them as you disconnect each one. put in a new fuse and turn on the ignition. start connecting them one by one, you will hear the fuse blow when you connect the one thats bad. it should be either the rear window defroster or the rear wiper. it may sound like a lot of work, but it's pretty simple. hope that works it did for me.

TO TROUBLE SHOOT ELECTRICAL YOU MIGHT NEED TO TRY A GOOD BULB OF CORRECT TYPE INTO SOCKET IN BRAKE FIXTURE THEN ALSO MAKE CERTAIN THE REGULAR TAIL LIGHT ELEMENT IS GOOD REPLACE FUSE WITHOUT PRESSING BRAKE LIGHTS ON IF FUSE IS OK THEN TURN ON THE RUNNING LIGHTS SEE IF THE ONE IN QUESTION IS COMING ON IF IT IS AND THE FUSE IS OK THEN PRESS BRAKE PEDAL AND SEE IF THE BULB LIGHTS WITH THE BRAKE ON ALSO THE FOUR WAY FLAHER IF FUSE IF STILL GOOD IT MIGHT ALLOW DASH LIGHTS TO COME ON MANY VEHICLES HAVE A SAFETY WAY OF LETTING YOU KNOW YOU HAVE NO TAIL LIGHTS BY ALSO TURNING OFF THE DASH LIGHTS.

Start by replacing your brake light bulbs. If it still blows the fuse, them your brake pedal switch. If it still happens then you have a shot circuit in your wiring between your fuse panel and your brake lights.