I have a 2003 ultra classic.Starts fine but engine light goes off then comes back on after few seconds. then going down the road with engine light on the volt meter starts dropping then around 8 or less engine dies.
SOURCE: 2004 electra glide classic- cut out going down the
Call your local dealer and have them run your vin( Vehicle Identification Number ) through HD Net to see if you have any outstanding recalls. There was a recall on the circuit breaker and the ignition switch around that time of production. better to be safe than sorry.
I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/robert_5bac37c3cb991fdb
SOURCE: 2003 Ultra Classic. Above 2000RPM, the volt meter
Dont do that, your voltage regulator is faulty. It is in the alternator. Max charging voltage should be 14.2 and min 13.6v. Chk battery water level. but get an alternator 4 sure
SOURCE: engine cranks starts for a few seconds shuts off
have you checked the pump relay sounds like your relay is ready for a change
SOURCE: My 2003 Harley Davidson Ultra Classic is cutting
I had a problem like that on my 2003 ultra classic. turns out there was a recall on some electric block in the fairing. It was a main connection power block kinda thing. Anyway they replaced it and then it never happened again.
it would ride a while on a hot day 25 min freeway and then just shut down. wait and cool down and it would restart.
I hope this helps.
JD
SOURCE: After leaving the last gas
Ok, let's check the charging system. The battery is easy. Take the battery out of the bike and take it to an automotive parts store. Ask them to load test the battery for you. If the battery is over two years old, it could need replacing.
Once you're sure the battery is good and it is FULLY CHARGED, we can test the rest of the system. You'll need a DVOM (digital volt ohm meter) to check the system. With the battery back in the bike, connect the DVOM across the battery. Red meter lead to the positive terminal of the battery, black meter lead to the negative. Put the meter's function selector switch in DC VOLTS, 20 VOLTS or greater. Start the bike and bring it to a high idle. The meter should read 14.5 - 15.0 volts.
Now, to test the stator, follow the wires from your regulator down to where it goes into the engine cases. Disconnect the connector and look into the engine side of it. You'll see two metal contacts down in there. Set you meter's function selector to AC VOLTS, 50 VOLTS or greater. Start the engine and bring it to a high idle. Touch each one of the metal contacts down in the engine side of the connector with a meter probe. It makes not difference since we're measuring AC voltage at this point. The meter should read at least 30 volts.
Now, if the alternator (stator test) does not put out at least thirty volts, the stator is bad and needs to be replaced. If the alternator does check good but not enough voltage at the battery, your regulator may be the culprit. Make sure all connections are clean and tight and that the body of the regulator is grounded good. Recheck the test at the battery. If it still fails, replace the regulator.
Now, I've seen may problems such as your's that are intermittant. In other words, the problem is here on minute and gone the next. I fought that on one bike for over a year until we finally replaced the entire charging system and fixed it. If your bike proves to be doing that, you may wish to consider that option. Fix the thing and be done with it. I wouldn't buy the rotor, just the stator and the regulator.
Good Luck
Steve
Testimonial: "right on with the test procedure. Battery didn't show it was charging. While the stator test showed 30vac, an ohm test showed it was grounded. Thanks "
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