Battery spark at terminals

Either a shorting wire off a wiring loom somewhere in the electrics or a boot light or internal light not switching off.did you recently fit a new item to the vehicle as this could be part of the problem.

You could load test the battery ,to see if its good ,if it is good or new,it may be your stator,or charging system.You could check the voltage of the battery while its running to see if its charging. I found ,they dont like not being started,or sitting for awhile. Ive installed a battery tender ,that keeps my battery fully charged even if you let the bike sit for extended periods of time. Its a very low amp charging system ,then turns itself on and off,to keep your battery fully charged. Sometimes there called Float chargers too.

This is easy to test but you need a multimeter. Connect the multimeter to the battery and run the engine at a fast idle (say 2000 rpm). You should get a voltage reading anywhere from 14 to 15 volts if the battery is fully charged and the alternator is working. If the reading is around 12 volts, then the alternator is not working.

Sounds like the battery. If its not holding power it will cause the car to die. The alternator will charge the battery and keep power to the vehicle, but the battery is also apart of the process.

Replace the battery and check the battery cables for corrosion. At autozone or wherever you go to get a new battery get some terminal grease/protector for your battery. Its like .99 for a packet and will help keep your connections to the battery from corrosion.

If I understand your query right. Your truck keeps dying.
1. Might need a tune-up (plugs and gap adjust to spec.), plugs wires, fuel filter, cap, rotor. air filter)
2. I suspect the fuel filter-----or high voltage to ground (like spark to ground)
For charging system
1. Battery test (Voltage reading)
2. Take the CCA (Cold Cranking Amps) divide by 2
example: 600cca / 2 = 300
3. With a carbon pipe tester load 300amps for 15 seconds and read the voltage drop. Should not go under 9.5volts if not the battery won't pass the test.
4. The alternator has to be tested for "alternator max.output"
Make sure you have good terminals connection +and - of the battery before doing any test.

Hope it helps.

if your battery died while driving and the car cut off while your driving,, your problem is from your alternator!!!,, on a normal working car, you can start, remove ther battery terminals and the car would still run cause the alternator will be powering the car. In your case the alternator isnt working and the car was working on battery power therefore when the battery went dead the car cut off.. Your alternator need \s to be charging between 13.5 and 14.2 volts.. as little as 10 volts will keep the vehicle running.. I'd suggest you have the alternator replaced.

Does it crank well and all that but with no spark or is the battery just dead? If the battery is dead, it either won't charge while alternator is spinning or the alternator doesn't charge well enough to keep the battery charged well. If it jumps and runs indefinitely, battery is done. If it jumps and dies, alternator is done. If battery and alternator are fine, and you have no spark, you may need a new coil, new spark plug wires if they are worn out and too resistant, pick up coil inside of distributor, or you may have some other ignition system issue.

Most times when an alternator fails, it starts charging less and less till the car won't keep running or it won't start the next time. If the alternator hasn't failed, the battery needs replacing. If your battery is 5 or more years old this is a very good possibility. If your alternator failed and you have killed your battery many times before replace them both. Each time you drain a battery to dead you lose about 10% of its current capacity.

If the battery is fine and engine will not turn, starter may need replacing. Hope I helped.

This process takes (2) people to do easily. Once the battery is charged again from a charger or jump start, with the car off, open the hood with all the doors closed and disconnect the positive (RED) side of the battery using a wrench (many are 10mm). If you then touch the battery terminal back to the positive post of the battery you will likely see a small spark. That means something in the car is killing your battery. If not (no small spark) then you have an alternator problem. By taking needle nose pliers and removing and replacing each fuse in the fuse block individually and doing the aforementioned spark test, pulling ONE of those fuses will likely show NO spark when you touch the battery terminal to the battery. Once you have found that, you have found the circuit which is draining your battery. Look in the owners manual to find what that fuse is for. That will GREATLY narrow down your search to whatever is causing your problem.

I found the problem YEAH. It was the fuse that is in the side of the fuse box under the hood, Its where the battery wire from the alternator connects thru a fuse to go to the battery, Its one hundred and something volt fuse. It took care of the problem instantly.... Thank you all for your replies...

sounds as if you have an issue with the charging system, try using a volt meter to determine if the bike is charging. To do so you will need to access the battery under the seat, with the bike running hook up the volt meter to the battery terminals, at idle you should have around 11volts when reving you should have around 13volts. If not you may have a bad stator or other electrical issues. good luck