2011 Harley Davidson FLHTCU Ultra Classic Electra Glide Logo
A
Anonymous Posted on Jul 15, 2013

2011 FLHTCU brakes

Rear brake drag's. Have been bleed ,dis-assembled cleaned and re-assembled.On third set of pads

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 2336 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 10, 2008

SOURCE: replace rear brake pads

Remove right saddlebag, pull the two caliper mounting bolts and remove the caliper. Do not open bleeder or disconnect line. You will need to push a large screwdriver between the old pads before removing them in order to push the pucks back into the caliper or the new pads will not spread enough to reinstall. Then pull the two smaller bolts from the caliper and the pads will fall out. The pads are different for inside and outside, so pay attention, and remember, after reinstalling, before riding, be sure to pump brake pedal, and it may take a few stops before brakes stop as effectively as before.

Ad

Anonymous

  • 2336 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 20, 2008

SOURCE: Stuck Brake Pad Pins

I suggest pulling the axle out a bit to allow the caliper assy more freedom of movement. Then see if you can get the pins out. If not, you can put something (like a piece of wood) between the pistons and the rotor on the outside and gently pump the pedal to see if that does in fact loosen the pins. But a more fundemental question: is the new floating rotor the EXACT diameter as the OEM (or whatever was on there) rotor? It sounds to me like the rotor is jammed against the pins. If it is the same size, are the new pads the same shape as the old ones (same profile on the metal backing)?

Anonymous

  • 69 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 21, 2009

SOURCE: How do I change the front and rear brakes on a

Not too hard - Undo the two bolts on the caliper and then seperate the caliper and pull the old ones out. Insert the new ones and put the bolts back in to hold the caliper back together and then install them back on the bike with the two retaining bolts. Use a bit of lock tight (Blue) on the threads. Warning do not let anyone apply pressure on the brakes while you have them off the bike or you will have a mess and/or a problem.

Anonymous

  • 149 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 30, 2009

SOURCE: how to change brake pads on a 2005 1200 Harley

there is 2 bolts on the caliper take them off and there are pad pins that need to be taken out.. inside the caliper there is a metal clip where the pad sits in.. put them in the same way they came out once you start its pretty self explainatory.. you should not have to blead them

Anonymous

  • 4565 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 24, 2009

SOURCE: Want to replace rear brake pads 1995 Harley Fat boy

Replacing the pads on your Fat Boy is not difficult but you need to pay close attention to the way things are put together as you take it apart. Particularly the little steel pad retainers and the anti-rattle spring. These parts are made and go together in such a way that it's very hard to describe how they go in.

To remove the pads, take the two caliper retaining bolts out of the disc brake caliper. These are usually Torx head bolts. Once you get the bolts out, the caliper simply slides to the front and off of the pads. You'll need a way to push the piston back into the caliper so it will go down onto the new pads. I usually do this with a large pair of slip joint pliers. Make sure you put a rag or something on your calipers so you don't damage the piston or the paint.

Now, look at the way the pads, the little steel pieces at each end of the pads and the anti-rattle spring are in the caliper support bracket. Remove the old pads and parts and install the new pads and parts in the same way. Make sure you put the fiber face of the pad TOWARDS THE ROTOR. Don't laugh, I've lots of people put them in backwards, especially on the back side of the rotor.

Now, carefully slide the caliper back down over the pads taking care not to knock the pads out of there positions. I put a little Loctite 242 (med. strength blue) on the threads of the caliper retainer bolts and reinstall them. Torque them to about 25 foot pounds.
Check the brake fluid level in the rear master cylinder and slowly "pump" the rear brake pedal until the rear brake feels firm. Wait a few minutes and mash the brake pedal one time to the bottom. If it goes down to lower point and then on the next "pump" is higher, you probably need to bleed air from the system.

Open the bleeder valve on the caliper, press the rear brake pedal to the bottom and hold it there, close the bleed valve, and then release the brake pedal. Continue to do this until all the air is out of the system and the rear brake pedal feels firm on the first time it's depressed. While doing this, never allow the rear brake fluid reserviour to run out of fluid. If it does, you'll have to start all over with the bleeding process. Use only DOT 5 brake fluid. DOT 5 and DOT 3 or 4 are NOT compatible and will not mix. If they are mixed, it will cause you a lot of trouble in the future.

Test the brakes before you ride the bike and then again when you first ride the bike at a very low speed. Failure to do this job properly can cause serious injury or death. Brakes must operate properly. Good Luck!

Ad

Add Your Answer

×

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

0helpful
1answer

I replaced the brake pads on the rear of my 1999 Olds Bravada. We didn't bleed the brakes because we didn't feel that we had compromised them. Now the brakes are dragging and it seem

Replace the calipers my friend. Corrosion on the caliper pistons is holding the brakes on causing the drag. That rubber boot over the piston doesn't seal from condensation and makes surface rust/corrosion and won't allow the pistons to release all pressure.
0helpful
2answers

No peddel

keep bleeding the system,if u didnt bench bleed the master cylinder,you will need to do that.Its a must
0helpful
1answer

I put new brakes in my saturn. i put new front calipers,rotors and pads and power bleed front only. i also put new brake pads in rear but did not replace drums.after all that i can't get a hard brake...

try adjusting the rear brake shoes but.....spin the rear wheels first is u get the feeling of the shoes grabbing then releasing ( the tire gets loose then tight as u rotate it) u will need to have the drums cut on a brake lathe or replaced...when u have this done , then adjust the rear shoes until u get a slight drag on the rear wheels..go pump the brake pedal to seat the shoes if the wheel spins free adjust the shoes more an repeat until they have a slight drag after pumping the brake pedal
0helpful
1answer

I replaced my rear brakes. Does the emergency brake automatically adjust itself?

Yes.....and no. Emergency brake should have been checked during brake pad replacement.
Most do adjust to new pads...ie: return to factory adjustment setting due to new pads .

The E brake lever should be applying braking to the wheels after three clicks are heard during application of the Emergency brake.

Lift rear of car and apply emergency brake to the third click. Now both rear wheels should drag equally but not be locked up.
.
If not, adjustment required.

However, late model cars need a scanner to pull back the pistons and install pads.
0helpful
1answer

Replacing rear brakes on 96 deville

quite an involved repair if unfamiliar. Include proper setting of park brake arm to get proper pedal height , or the pedal might go to the floor.. Also includes bleeding of the brake system, with a power bleeder.
0helpful
1answer

Brake pedal won't return.

There could be a couple reasons for this. First thing to check is your return spring, is it still there and attached properly? Next thing to check is your master cylinder pressure release. Loosen the bleed nipple on the rear caliper. Does the brake release now? If so, your master cylinder has some debris clogging the fluid return passageway. Remove and clean it. If the brake still does not release after opening the bleed nipple, at least one of your caliper pistons is binding. Remove the rear caliper and the brake pads. Now press the pedal and force the pistons out. Looses the bleed nipple and attempt to press the pistons back into place. They should move smoothly when you apply firm pressure. Clean the caliper thoroughly. If you have a rebuild kit for the caliper this is a good time to rebuild it. After cleaning, put it back together, bleed the brakes and test again. It is normal for disk brakes to drag SLIGHTLY on the rotor, but they should not stop a free spinning wheel in less than a coupld revolutions when spun by hand.
7helpful
2answers

Rear disc brakes drag after installing new pads

Just did my rear brakes this weekend, Monday had a very slight drag. Noted that when I installed new pads I had to tap them on. That shouldn't be. When brakes are released, there should be enough play to allow the pads to back off the disc. Tonight, I removed the pads and filed down the ends of the tips that go into the top and bottom channels until I could install and remove them with fingertips, that gives them enough play to grab and release. Drag disappeared; the old girl ran like she should.
4helpful
1answer

2000 Silvrado z71 4wd Brake Pad Replacement

crawl underneath the front and look at the caliper if it has a duel piston caliper you will see 2 circles about 3 inches across and if it is a single piston caliper it will only have one of these circles in the middle this iswhere the pistons are. yes those pads are suitable. As for bleeding the brakes you need to start at the passengers side rear wheel and bleed it first then go to the drivers side rear wheel then go to the passengers side front wheel and then finally the drivers side front wheel. If you are only replacing the brake pads and shoes then you don't need to bleed the brakes. If you are bleeding the brakes then you will want to be sure to top up the brake fluid as you are doing thebleeding process as if you don't you will end up having to start all over again. as for special tools you may need a 3/8 hex bit and a 8 inch " C " clamp to compress the calipers after you remove the brake pads. If you are replacing the rotors you may require a special socket fo dis-assebleing and re-assembly of the front hubs.
Not finding what you are looking for?

144 views

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Harley Davidson Experts

Arnie Burke
Arnie Burke

Level 3 Expert

7339 Answers

Sean Wright
Sean Wright

Level 3 Expert

2045 Answers

ZJ Limited
ZJ Limited

Level 3 Expert

17989 Answers

Are you a Harley Davidson Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...