Leaky carb just got carb fixed 2 days ago and still does the same thing it leask gas out of the carb when i turn off the motor of if it stalls out please help!!!! me

you may need to turn the Hi screw on the carb in 1/4 of a turn. Make sure the gas and mix are fresh.

.This is in answer to no soap on the Karcher Factory-Reconditioned 2,600 PSI 2.3 GPM Gas Pressure Washer G 2600 VHR
Use the 65 degree low pressure nozzle for soap. The nozzle is black.
I missed it in the manual..drove me nuts until I slowed down to recheck the manual..

you have a vacuum problem, I would have the intake gasket checked or you can spray carb/choke cleaner around the intake where it meets the heads and if the rpm of the motor reacts then you have a leak, my explorer was the same way, idle raised and lowered,idled rough, stalled, and my vents acting up. new intake gaskets a month ago and wham runs great. My yukon i did 2 days ago as it had the same actions and yep it runs great now. I'm sure its your intake.

Get some sta-bil fuel stabilizer. add twice the amount recommended on the bottle for storage to your mixed gas. Empty out chainsaw tank and refill with the new mix. Rub for 2 minutes, then shut off. Remove cover over carb and spray inside carb, soaking it down good and cleaning all internal surfaces visible - allow to sit overnight.
Next day
Spray down carb with carb cleaner for about 15 seconds. Start saw, allowing 2 minutes to warm up and reduce choke. If saw stalls, restart and spray inside carb as it runs with choke on - keep motor at the highest rpms you can as you spray - spray in 2 second bursts, not allowing motor to stall from spray. If it stalls, change sparkplug and try again. You have varnish build up in the carb and are trying to remove it so the carb will work without the choke. This may take some time but it is the exact procedure I used for my Poulan Team Realtree last spring - I spent about an hour spraying and staring before it ran without the choke.
Good luck!!

Check your petcock on your tank. This is a vacume operated valve. If it is not shutting off, when you put it on the kickstand your float level changes. It allows fuel to run through carb into motor.

Did you try pulling the spark plug and spraying some starter fluid or carb cleaner into the cylinder, putting the spark plug back in and starting it? If you've got spark and it doesn't start for a few seconds then you probably have carb problems. Good luck!

idle air flow motor

so you have a hole in your tank somewhere. or leaky fuel **** gasket. firstly you need to find the leak. or is your gas just flowing right thru your carbs and out the overflow? shut off fuel to eliminate carbs. if it stops leaking then its probably gummed up carb floats. use Berrymans B12 fuel additive this will work into the carb and hopefully break down the gum. or strip and clean them by hand with a good spray carb cleaner. or remove air cleaner and spray directly into carb and let sit for a few days.
if it's a gas tank leak then you will have to get it lined, (liquid sealer) so long as the hole is not too big. if it is then drain and dry the tank, get it welded professionally or patch it with a filler or fiberglass and then get it sealed, i used my local radiator repair shop to het mine done.

Do you have the H and L adjuster screws on the carb? If so, then normally I'd back out a little bit on the L (low speed side of carb) The instructions for adjusting carbs, years ago, on 2-stroke, say to back out on the L when motor will not rapidly rev up. Most 2-stroke carbs have these 2-jets. The L is for gas to pass to motor with butterfly throttle plate closed. When opening throttle plate, there is a sudden rush of air, at first, and this L adjustment is allowing enough gas to pass for motor to begin to rev. up. Then the gas will also flow through another small port H, usually a small brass tube in the venture area (smallest diameter section of carb). You adjust the H with the throttle wide open, motor revved up. Turn either in or out slightly till highest RPMS reached, motor smooth and fast, then turn H out about 1/4 turn. The idea is to run motor slightly rich for highest HP when under load (cutting). Hope this helps

timing chain/belt ?