2007 ktm 200XC - new w/ only 2 hare scrambles - 1 one sand & mud - 2nd one clay/mud - have oil leaking from behind front sprocket - after sand race, i removed sprocket to clean area - seal spacer looked worn? from sand - does someone make a better part?

Thank you for contacting FixYa with this interesting question.
There has always been an ongoing debate on this issue. The objective is to make your front wheel stick in the corners while not pinching the tube against the wheel usually means more air 15 - 25 lbs front, 12 - 16 lbs rear. Wet or dry conditions make a huge difference. You can run a lot more air when it's dry (dessert racing etc...) even in the woods the clay gets really hard packed and you might as well leave the air at higher levels for flat tire prevention.
I ride in Oregon where we usually have mud. I pack a Malcolm Smith compressed air dispenser in my fanny pack so I can increase or decrease the pressure as needed when competing on special tests or sections where I need lower air pressure to get extra tread grip on my knobs. In muddy sections I like 10 - 14 lbs of rear tire pressure and new knobbies.
Suggestion would be to keep experimenting with pressure, keep sharp knobs on your tires and don't get any flats from tube pinches in the middle of now where. Carry a dozen or so of those 14 inch zip ties so if you get a flat you can zip tie the tire to the wheel and ride her back to the pits.
Happy ripping and keep the wire tight,
TF

Thank you for contacting FixYa with your inquiry.
Go to this link and drill down to below indicated: http://cyclehuttktm.com/FicheFinderNew/FicheFinder.aspx 2001 > 400 SX RACING > ENGINE > TRANSMISSION II
You can loosen the chain tension from the adjusters at the end of the swing arm. Then remove the mud guard (If exists) covering the front sprocket. Remove the M10 X 18mm bolt holding the sprocket. Slide the sprocket and chain off the spline and change out. If unable to slide off the spline you can always open the master link on the chain and do same step.

Use reverse process to re-install new sprocket. Readjust chain tension and make sure to re-tighten axel nuts. Good idea to use Locktite on the 10 x 18 bolt and spring washer holding the front sprocket. Replace mud guard or leave off as to your preference.
Kind regards,
TF

Thank you for contacting FixYa with your inquiry.
I have compiled a list of all the useful KTM torque setting that apply to your bike.

KTM Torque settings

1. Collar screw, front wheel spindle Front axle nut 40Nm 30ft lbs
2. Brake Caliper front Brake Caliper front Loctite 243 2 19ft lbs
3. Brake Disk, front Brake disk front Loctite 243 1 11ft lbs
4. Brake Disk, rear Brake disk rear Loctite 243 1 11ft lbs
5. Clamping screws, upper fork bridge Top triple clamp 20Nm 15ft lbs
6. Clamping screws, lower fork bridge Bottom triple clamp 15Nm 11ft lbs
7. Clamping screws, fork stubs Front axle pinch bolts 10Nm 7ft lbs
8. Collar nut, rear wheel spindle Rear axle nut 80Nm 59ft lbs
9. Hex nut swingarm bolt Swingarm nut 100Nm 74ft lbs
10. Hex collar screw handlebar clamp Upper handlebar clamps 20Nm 15ft lbs
11. Allen head screw handlebar support Lower handlebar clamps Loctite 243 4 30ft lbs
12. Shock absorber top Shock absorber top bolt 60Nm 44ft lbs
13. Shock absorber bottom Shock absorber botton bolt 60Nm 44ft lbs
14. Sprocket screws Rear sprocket bolts Loctite 243 3 25ft lbs
15. Ball joint for push rod Rear brake pedal pivot Loctite 243 1 7ft lbs
16. Engine mounting bolts Engine mounting bolts 45Nm 33ft lbs
17. Engine brace Engine brace 33Nm 24ft lbs
18. Screw adjusting ring spring preload Shock preload collar bolt 8Nm 6ft lbs
19. Spoke nipple Spokes 5Nm 4ft lbs
20. Other Screws on chassis M6 10Nm 7ft lbs
21. M8 25Nm 19ft lbs
22. M10 45Nm 33ft lbs
23. Other collar nutes on chassis M6 15Nm 11ft lbs
24. M8 30Nm 22ft lbs
25. M10 50Nm 37ft lbs
26. Front Sprocket 44ft lbs

Let us know if we can provide further assistance.
Best regards,
TF

remove the sprocket, hook out the seal and replace, make sure all is clean, and no grass or wire has caused it. You can usually remove the spacer that is over the shaft that the sprocket holds against, this will give room on the inside of the seal to hook it out

if you are lucky there is a clip behind the front sprocket remove both then pop the seal out drain gear box oil first though. if not which i think is most probable the engine will need splitting if you are good with spanners it is quite easy being a 2 stroke .in brief remove engine remove bore and carb in one lump remove sprocket gear lever split g-box .seal up push old seal out, from outside in, fit new then reverse prosses. a good manual will help.

Replace the output sahft seal

Yes and No, But it does depend on your knowledge. It will mearly be a seal that needs to be replaced. You will need to drain your gearbox oil and remove the cover, chain, sprocket etc etc...If you have no idea it is not worth attempting.

Good luck

My honest opinion? (40 years of riding, three years of motocross, and 15 years of hare scrambles)
All bikes are good, KTM...Honda...Kawasaki...Yamaha...Suzuki
It really up to maintenance, rider ability, and of course a newer the bike doesn't hurt either.
Go with what you can get parts for, and you'll be able to work with.

down on your console next to drivers seat is a button with 2nd start on it -push it and it will turn off light --- you can use this button to lock gearbox into 2nd gear at anytime -so it lets you take off in 2ng gear if you find that 1st gear is causing to much slipage when stuck in mud or on clay . i also use it on sand sometimes to get a better run up sand dunes so it misses that sudden **** changing up from 1st to 2nd.
hope this helps
**** in adelaide
95series gxl auto

Hi,

Oil from the breather is an indicator of compression bypassing the rings. This causes sump compression.
Cause of the problem is worn rings.
You need to conduct a compression test, if the compression is low then rings are probably the cause of the bike not starting.

Cheers

Jon