Fuel leaking from petcock bolts

• It sounds like the fuel line or fuel petcock might be clogged. You bike does not have a fuel pump so the fuel is delivered to the carburetor by gravity, check the fuel line for obstruction. You may have to remove the petcock from the tank, if you do be sure to drain all of the fuel from the fuel tank first. The petcock has a screen that serves as a filter, the only way to clean it is to remove the whole petcock assembly from the tank. Also, its a good idea to replace any gaskets and o rings with new ones, you dont want any fuel leaks no matter how small Good luck

To remove a 2011 XL fuel tank FIRST purge the fuel supply line of high pressure gasoline by removing the left side cover, removing the fuel pump connector from the ECM caddy cover (2), unplugging the fuel pump connector, starting the engine and allowing it to run until it quits and then operating the starter for another 3 seconds, turning the ignition switch to OFF, releasing/disconnecting the fuel tank quick-connect fitting, removing the main fuse, removing the seat and draining the fuel tank, (If inserting a tube into the fuel tank to remove fuel do so only on the right side to avoid damage to the fuel pump assembly on the left side of the tank interior.)THEN remove the vent hose, cable clip securing the fuel pump wiring harness, unplug the unplug the fuel pump connector, remove the bolt thread protective caps, lock nuts, screws and washers from the front and rear of the fuel tank, put a clean soft cloth or towel over the front of the fuel tank protect it from damaging contact with the top fork clamp, lift the rear of the fuel tank up, remove the fuel pump harness from the clip on the frame backbone tube and remove the fuel tank from the bike to a workbench area. Where the fuel pump assembly can be removed if necessary and where the tank can be cleaned if necessary.

To install a 2011 XL fuel tank FIRST install the fuel pump into the fuel tank with a new gasket, THEN place the fuel tank onto the bike over the frame backbone tube ensuring that the front fuel tank brackets go on outboard of the ignition coil bracket, put the washer on the long bolt and insert if from the left side into the front fuel tank bracket, the ignition coil bracket, the frame and the right side fuel tank bracket, put the second washer over the bolt threaded end and start the locknut. THEN put a clean soft cloth or towel over the front of the fuel tank to protect it from damaging contact with the top fork clamp, lift up the rear end of the fuel tank and put the fuel pump wiring harness into its clip on the frame backbone tube ensuring that the harness forms a loop between the clip and the fuel pump module to keep from pinching the harness between the fuel tank and the frame backbone, route the fuel pump wiring harness down along the left side of the H-bracket, secure it with a cable clip, push the clip into its hole in the H-bracket mounting boss, lower the rear of the fuel tank into place, put the washer on the short boltandfrom the right side push it into place through the rear fuel tank bracket and frame, put the second washer over the threaded end of the bolt, and start the locknut onto the bolt threads. And then tighten both the front and rear fuel tank mounting nuts and bolts to 15-20 ft-lbs (20.4-27.1 Nm), install the protective caps over the bolt threaded ends, install the vent hose, connect the fuel tank quick connect fitting and ensure that it is locked into place, fill the tank with fuel, carefully inspect for leaks , install the main fuse, turn the ignition switch ON and verify fuel pump operation, again inspect for fuel leaks, turn the ignition switch OFF, close the side cover and install the seat.

If the bolts are spinning you will have to drill off the bolt heads and extract the threads from the base inserts. Replace the petcock base o-ring, epoxy the base nuts into the tank body, install petcock. Or replace tank and valve. It's a choice of time or money.

The Enricher is only there for starting the bike as it makes the fuel mixture too rich. Over use causes carbon deposits to build up and this can cause more problems.
The Petcock is a 'Screw On' fitting. First disconnect or remove the battery to prevent any accidental sparks.
**NOTE** Do this outside or in a very well ventilated area.
Cover the side of the COLD engine with a plastic sheet to protect from splashes of fuel.
Next drain the fuel tank. ALWAYS make sure the gas can you fill into is bigger than you need to prevent overspill. Use an extra long piece of fuel line so you can stand the gas can on the floor as it might take a while to empty. Set the petcock to Reserve as it feeds from lower in the tank. Remove the filler cap and put it to one side until you are finished fitting the new part. (Faster flow when your emptying and better ventilation when working).
An extra option is to put some masking tape on the underside of the tank to prevent scratching the paint. It might be easier to disconnect any fuel line at the petcock before removing it.
Using a suitable wrench unscrew the nut between the tank and the top of the petcock. It should twist towards the front of the bike.
**NOTE** Watch for any fuel dripping from the hole as you slide the petcock down and out.
Refitting.. Before fitting unscrew the mounting nut on the new petcock so it spins freely. This allows it to grab more threads when fitted giving a better fuel tight fit.
Clean the threads and hole on the tank with a rag. (Safely dispose of the rag when finished). Set the new tap to the OFF position. Carefully slide the filter body into the tank so you don't damage the filter mesh. Position the tap to the correct angle, (it doesn't have to be exact). With you fingers push the petcock firmly into position and wind the nut into place until it is finger tight. Then using a suitable wrench turn the nut until it is firmly tight. DO NOT over tighten the nut. This will strip the threads and leak fuel all over you and the engine.
Connect your fuel lines and fill the tank with about half a litre of fuel and open the petcock to the Reserve position. This is to test for any obvious leaks. Refill the tank to full, refit the fuel cap, and recheck all your pipes and connections. If you had any drips or spills Clean them up properly. Reconnect the battery and take you bike out for a run getting her up to working temperature. On your return recheck all your pipes and connections. Job done.

It maybe time to remove the gas tank and make sure you do not have a rust problem,,, Some tanks have an equalizer tube that runs from one side to the other...it should never leak, The petcock can usually be cleaned and new orings installed.

Removal

Remove fuel filler cap and perform Fuel System Pressure Release procedure.

1. Disconnect negative cable from battery.
2. Insert fuel siphon hose into fuel filler neck and push it into the tank.
3. Drain fuel tank dry into holding tank or a properly labeled GASOLINE safety container.
4. Raise vehicle on hoist.
5. Use a transmission jack to support the fuel tank. Remove bolts from fuel tank straps. Lower tank slightly.
6. Clean area around fuel tank module and tank to keep dirt and foreign material out of tank.
7. Disconnect fuel lines from fuel pump module by depressing quick connect retainers with thumb and fore finger
8. Slide fuel pump module electrical connector lock to unlock.
9. Push down on connector retainer and pull connector off module.
10. remove plastic locknut counterclockwise to release pump module
11. Carefully remove pump module and O-ring from tank
12. Discard old O-ring.

INSTALLATION

1. Wipe seal area of tank clean and place a new O-ring seal in position on pump.
2. Position fuel pump in tank with locknut.
3. Tighten locknut to 53 N·m (43 ft. lbs.)
4. Connect fuel lines.
5. Plug in electrical connector. Slide connector lock into position.
6. Raise fuel tank, install bolts into fuel tank straps and tighten.
7. Lower vehicle on hoist.
8. Connect negative cable from battery.
9. Fill fuel tank. Check for leaks.
10. Install fuel filler cap.

It is believed that the fuel pump is in the fuel tank, and you have to take the tank off the vehicle to replace it.

Camaro, Firebird, 1999 - 2002 Repair Guide
Fuel Pump - Removal & Installation

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
   
2. Relieve the fuel system pressure.
3. Drain the fuel tank.
4. Clean the area surrounding the sender assembly to prevent contamination of the fuel system.
5. Remove or disconnect the following:
   Fuel tank Fuel sender-to-fuel tank retaining ring Fuel sender from the fuel tank Fuel pump from the sending unit
   
   
   Fig. Fuel sender/pump assembly component identification
   

To install:

1. Install or connect the following:
   NOTE The fuel pump strainer must be in a horizontal position and must not block the float arm travel.
   Fuel pump with new strainer onto the sending unit New O-ring in the tank opening groove New O-ring on the fuel sender feed tube
2. Fold the strainer over itself and slowly position the sending assembly in the tank so the strainer is not damaged or trapped by the sump walls.
   Retaining ring Fuel tank. Torque the bolts to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm). Fuel filler cap Negative battery cable
   
3. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position for 2 seconds, OFF for 10 seconds, then back to the ON position. Check for fuel leaks.

Hope this help (remember rated and comment this), good luck.

In the fuel tank.

Sorry - misunderstood.
sounds like Kreem tank sealer or similar (there are lots of brands...) - treat for same.

• Work in a well ventilated area
• Don't have ignition sources around (if you light-up, you might REALLY light-up!)
• Be aware that acetone can eat away at a nice paint job, wipe it off immediately
• Sucking acetone fumes into a shop vac can cause fire from the electric

MATERIALS:


1. two gallons of acetone
2. 3 foot length of chain - the type of brass chain used for plant hangers works well.
3. large drip pan
4. two fabricated petcock hole covers
5. tank epoxy from Caswell or other suitable tank conditioner(?)
6. shop vacuum that can be set to blow
7. baggies
8. optional expandable rubber plug for fuel fill hole
9. 10 mm wrench (open-end helps) for dealing with sender unit
10. wire cutter (may be needed for sender unit)
11. plenty of shop rags
12. replacement O-rings for petcock gaskets
PROCEDURE IN DETAIL: 1. drain tank of all gas
2. remove petcocks
3. remove fuel gage float/sender unit
4. fabricate covers to cover petcock holes
5. remove gaskets from petcocks
6. use petcock gaskets with fabricated covers and install on tank
7. disconnect lead wires from sender unit (may have to cut and then reattach later)
8. use gasket from sender unit, install sender unit backwards on tank with float on the outside
9. pour chain into tank
10. pour gallon of acetone into tank
11. install leak proof cap (I suggest using an expandable rubber drain plug, but I just held the fuel cap down tight)
12. check for leaks
13. shake periodically, to remove rust and Kreem (keep in tank at least a day shake often enough to keep the Kreem damp prior to draining or it will re-solidify)
14. open one petcock hole and sender unit port and drain out the acetone saturated with Kreem and rust
15. remove chain - use a coathanger.
16. CAUTION acetone fumes are flammable and can ignite with the motor of a shop vacuum. Manually remove them.
17. reseal tank sender unit port and petcock holes
18. pour in 1/2 gallon of fresh acetone
19. shake often
20. remove one petcock cover
21. drain acetone into drip pan
22. replace petcock cover and gasket
23. filter the used acetone through a coffee filter into a mason jar (use the mason ring to hold filter)
24. pour in the filtered acetone (or use fresh)
25. add fresh if needed
26. shake periodically
27. repeat steps 20 to 25
28. remove petcock cover and drain tank contents
29. remove all other seals
30. use shop vac and hook it up for BLOWING.
31. Place hose over fuel filler hole and dry the inside of the tank very thoroughly (outside, of course)
32. Reseal petcock holes and sender unit port, but this time, use baggies between the tank and the gaskets to protect them from the resin. Note that I had to buy new O-rings anyway because my official Yamaha petcock gaskets were too deformed to seal after this process.
33. thoroughly mix the Caswell Tank epoxy (I used a drill attachment)
34. pour into the fuel filler hole and seal it.
35. rotate the tank, shake it, rotate it several minutes to cover all inside surfaces
36. continue for about 20 minutes or so (might depend on the temperature)
37. remove a petcock cover and drain excess epoxy
38. remove other petcock cover and sender unit
39. wipe off epoxy drips with acetone rag around open holes
40. let epoxy firm a little, install all screws with a drop of light machine oil, and then remove all screws to clear off threads, then let cure at least over night
41. Reassemble
That is, if you want to reseal it...

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
2. Relieve the fuel system pressure.
3. Drain the fuel tank.
4. Clean the area surrounding the sender assembly to prevent contamination of the fuel system.
5. Remove or disconnect the following:
   • Fuel tank
   • Fuel sender-to-fuel tank retaining ring
   • Fuel sender from the fuel tank
   • Fuel pump from the sending unit Fuel sender/pump assembly component identification

To install:

1. Install or connect the following: NOTEThe fuel pump strainer must be in a horizontal position and must not block the float arm travel.
   • Fuel pump with new strainer onto the sending unit
   • New O-ring in the tank opening groove
   • New O-ring on the fuel sender feed tube
2. Fold the strainer over itself and slowly position the sending assembly in the tank so the strainer is not damaged or trapped by the sump walls.
   • Retaining ring
   • Fuel tank. Torque the bolts to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm).
   • Fuel filler cap
   • Negative battery cable
3. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position for 2 seconds, OFF for 10 seconds, then back to the ON position. Check for fuel leaks