Check TPS shaft for breakage. This is the shaft that goes through the throttle body (butterly mounted on it) and it can break at the TPS end. The break can happen where the shaft enters the throttle body at the TPS side and you cannot see this. Mark the TPS before removing to ensure correct replacement.
SOURCE: when riding 2005 fuel injected harley road king,
Sounds like the intake manifold is leaking. The area where the leak usually happens, are those two rubber sleeves that go from the heads, (Cylinder heads) to the intake. Sometimes the clamp/s loosen up. Sometimes these rubber sleeves deteriorate, and cracks form.
This makes the engine backfire, pop, and idle fast.
The added air at the wrong time cause a backfire, when you let off the throttle. The added air causes the engine to pop, because the exhaust valve has sucked up some cold air.
The engine idles fast, because more air is being introduced, and not metered by the injection system.
(The exhaust valve thing. Exhaust valves are supposed to open, and let exhaust out right? Well there is a thing called Valve Overlap.
The Exhaust valve hasn't closed all the way yet, and the Intake valve is opening.
The 4 stroke engine, (Of which a Harley is), has these four strokes.
1.Intake Stroke. Fuel/air is sucked in.
2.Compression Stroke. The piston comes up and squeezes the fuel/air mixture.
3.Combustion Stroke. The spark plug lights the fuel/air mixture off.
4.Exhaust Stroke. The spent gases are expelled out.
Your Road King has one camshaft. There are four cam lobes on it.
Intake, Exhaust, Intake, Exhaust.
If you had the camshaft in your hand, and had the gear end facing you, look down the camshaft. You will see those egg shaped cam lobes. You will notice that No.1 cylinder Intake lobe is facing to the left.
No.1 Exhaust is facing to the right.
If you put a degree wheel on the gear end of the camshaft, and had the No.1 Exhaust lobe ramp nose facing straight up, you would see that it's about 110 degrees, before the Intake lobe ramp at .050 lift, comes into play. (The roller, of your roller lifter has raised the Exhaust valve up .050 inch) There is about 55 degrees before the Exhaust valve hasn't quite shut.
This is okay for normal running. Introduce a vacuum leak, and the surge of extra cold air, makes it pop.
Solution? I suggest checking to see if the clamps on those rubber sleeves are loose. You can also spray WD-40 towards the ends of each rubber sleeve, when the engine is idling, and see if it speeds up. Means, one or more, of those rubber sleeves has deteriorated.
SOURCE: Rear brake light not workiing
There are two brake light switches. One is in the right handlebar switch housing. This is front brake light switch and is a simple push button type switch actuated by the front brake lever.
The other switch is a pressure switch and it is located in a Tee usually somewhere under the bike near the rear of the transmission. Follow the metal tube coming out of the rear of the master cylinder. It will go back towards the rear brake. Somewhere in that line there will be a tee with the pressure switch in it. If you jumper across this switch, the brake light should work. If it does work when you do this but not work when you depress the rear brake signal, replace the rear brake light switch.
Good luck
Steve
SOURCE: oil change procedure 2000 road king
the oil tank is on the bottom of the transmission in your RK. There are two drain plugs. The plug towards the front left of the pan is the oil drain plug. The other one is for the transmission.
Drain the oil, replace the filter, refill with three quarts of oil and you're ready to go. The dipstick has two marks on it. The upper mark is "FULL HOT", and the lower mark is "FULL COLD". Do not overfill.
Don't forget to service the transmission and the primary at their recommended intervals.
Good Luck
steve
SOURCE: how do I replace a drive belt on a 1999 harley
On a Big Twin, you must pull the entire primary drive off the engine.
Disconnect the battery. Take the outer primary cover off the engine. Remove the compensator (engine sprocket) nut. This nut is very tight and has Loctite thread locker on it. 150-165 foot pounds of torque. You'll need to something to lock the chain up so the engine does not turn while loosening or tightening this nut. We use what is called a "locking bar". Remove the small plate with the screw and locknut in the center of the clutch assembly. Remove the mainshaft nut up inside the clutch assembly. It torques to 60-80 foot pounds LEFT HANDED TREADS. Remove the nut from the primary chain tensioner. Grab the compensator sprocket and the clutch assembly and lift the primary drive out of the cover.
Take the small screw out of the center of the jackshaft and remove the starter jackshaft.
From the right side of the bike, remove whatever you have to remove to get to the starter, exhaust pipes or whatever. Disconnect the battery cable and the small wire from the starter. Remove the two bolts holding the starter on inner primary cover.
Go back to the left side of the bike. Remove the four bolts that holds the inner primary to the engine, and the two that hold the primary to the transmission. There's one bolt coming in from the backside that has a braided wire on it on the early models. There may be four bolts holding the inner primary onto the transmission. When you have all the bolts out, the primary will come off easily. If it does not seem to want to come off, you may still have a bolt somewhere. Do not beat on the primary cover with even a rubber hammer. It should come right off.
Now, you'll have to remove the rear wheel, rear shocks, belt guards, and remove the swing arm.
As you can see, it's a pretty involved job on a Big Twin.
Good luck
Steve
SOURCE: how do I adjust rear shocks on my 2000 Road King?
Hi Patti, Road Kings have air shocks at the rear. You will need a FL touring hand pump and adjust the air pressure accordingly to your weight/load.
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