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Have the fault codes read. Replace faulty items. Use only genuine items as replacement as non-genuine are not always compatible with the OEM fitted CPU units. This results in the fault codes not cancelling out. If nothing shows have the hydraulic tappets tested for leak back time . Ensure you have the right oil filter fitted to prevent oil leak back when the engine is stopped.. If you have over heated the engine it may be pickup on the cylinder walls from melted pistons.
Check and top up the coolant level. When an engine heats up fast and there is no heat from the heater it is low enough on coolant that it doesn't circulate through the heater core. Hope this helps.
Damage has been done to the engine, the noise you hear are the piston rod bearing ( knocking lower part of engine ) you can try putting in a crank kit and have the piston rods mechin but will not last very long, will start to knock again, best bet to replace engine,good luck.
Check the pipe from the top of the engine to the intake it may be clogged up. If the engine is low in power or it is burning oil then it could de broken or worn out pistons, cylinder's or piston ring's.
Well, if there are no leaks, then it has to be piston rings or valve seals. If it's only burning a quart every 1500 miles, you would barely see any smoke, and by the standards of 20 or 30 years ago, that was normal.
The Mazda B-Series and Ford Ranger are essentially the same after 1994. Mazda motors are made by Mazda. The seating is lower but they slide back far enough by 6'2" brother has plenty of room. Another neat fact is: the B-series is "non-interference", meaning that breakage of its timing belt does not result in damage to valves or pistons, because the opening of the valves, the depth of the combustion chamber
and (in some variants) the shaping of the piston crown allow sufficient
clearance for the open valves in any possible piston position
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