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incorrect carby settings
get it started and then try for full throttle
hold it at the point where it starts to die and adjust the high speed needle in or out until it picks up speed and stop when it reaches full speed easily and picks up speed easily
( high speed needle is the one closest to the air filter)
having done that let the accelerator off slowly until the engine will not idle
at this point adjust the low speed needle ( closest to the butterfly shaft) until it idle easily
If too slow adjust the screw where the cable stops on the carby
Farthest to closest. Did you bench bleed the master cylinder before installation? If not you will take forever to bleed the regular way. There are YouTube videos on how to do this.
if you have three screws then the one that is by itself will be the idle (usually labeled L) then you will have 2 side by side. the screw closest to the cylinder is the low and the one farthest from the cylinder is high. if you only have 2 screws then there isn't an adjustment for high
4.2-liter V-6 is: 1-4-2-5-3-6. facing truck from front, left bank of cylinders is 1-2-3, closest to farthest. The right bank is 4-5-6, closest to farthest. wires from coils to plugs. Good-Day!
The points are located under the distributors cap, that's the thing with the plug leads come from, open it you will see the points, hey open and close as the engine turns over, the cap is the space between the points when fully opened,adjust to the thickness of a credit card.
Both air in the brake lines and rear drums too far out of adjustment will cause the pedal to go to the floor repeatedly.
Bleed from the wheel that's farthest away from the master cylinder first, typically driver's side rear. Then bleed the others, ending with the one that's closest to the master cylinder. Generally, right rear, left rear, right front, left front.
Adjust the rear brakes until you hear them rub a bit as you turn the wheel, then back off a couple of notches. Be sure to use the brakes when backing up at first, let them adjust themselves up to where they should be.
It sounds like it is running lean. Back out your carbuerator adjustment screws a quarter turn counterclockwise. These settings should be 1 and a quarter on low speed (closest to engine block) and 1 and a half on high speed (farthest from engine block). These are starting points the adjustment may vary a little eigther way. Never adjust for max rpms that is too lean and will cause engine failure. Hope this helps ya.
Sounds like a carbuerator adjustment. Turn the low speed adjustment screw counterclockwise 1 guarter turn.(closest to engine block) Turn the high speed out the same (farthest from engine block). You may have to tweak it a little, those adjustments vary. Hope that gets ya going.
There are feeler gauges (extremely thin) to adjust the points gap. First find the proper gap for your model vehicle, and then purchase a gauge. these gauges have something like 10 different thicknesses, for different points, so make sure it includes the exact gap that you need. I remember in my youth adjusting the gap with cigarette wrapper paper, it seemed to have the proper thickness to get you out of dodge. Also remember that you have to rotate the engine until the points are in the open position, in order to adjust them.
System may have air in it bleed from farthest wheel to closest.
If rear shoes are out of adjustment re adjust them
Possible but most pads require a "bedding in" 20 stops 50 to25mph or so.
thank u
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