Bleed up aftermarket calipers - 2005 Harley Davidson FLHT - FLHTI Electra Glide Standard

The front calipers are closer to the master cylinder so you are bleeding a short brake line.
The rear calipers are farther away so the lines are longer and it requires more brake fluid to flush the air out of them.

replace both calipers and bleed system. remove wheel, unbolt brake flex hose where it mounts to the caliper,clamping hose to keep from losing brake fluid, unbolt caliper from caliper mounting bracket. and remove caliper. re-install in reverse order bleeding front brakes making sure master cylinder doesn`t run out of brake fluid.

replacing brakes or the brake master cylinder, or brake caliper? If your just doing brakes then you can get away with not bleeding brakes. Just open the master cylinder before you push the caliper in with the C-clamp. If your changing the caliper then yes you have to bleed the brakes. There is a bleed screw on the caliper.

Your rear brake pedal operates the rear caliper and the front disc. When you tried to bleed the left front caliper you let air into the rear brake system. Bleed the rear brake and front left caliper using the rear brake pedal that should restore the rear (and front) brakes.

Yes, just the replaced caliper, but make sure you get all the air out of the new caliper, thoroughly.

For left hand drive vehicles: (If the car does not have ABS system you do not need any diagnostic equipment!)

IMPORTANT NOTE: You need using diagnostic equipment connected to the data link connector of the car in order to bleed the ABS block. Follow instructions by scantool equipment for bleeding the ABS block.

1. This bleeding procedure requires two people. Remove the brake system reservoir cap, and fill up with new brake fluid until "MAX" level is reached.
2. Lift the car, or use a channel for access under vehicle.
3. Put the gearbox in "N" - Neutral position, or in "P" - Parking position for automatic transmission.
4. Start the engine and push the brake pedal firmly for 4 - 5 times to the floor, and maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor.
5. Begin with the rear right wheel. Another person remove the dust cap and loose the brake caliper bleeding screw until the brake pedal goes to the floor. At this moment maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor, engine idling, and tight the brake caliper bleeding screw. Use a plastic hose: one end connected to the brake caliper bleeding screw, and another end inside a recovery bottle for used brake fluid.
6. Repeat steps no.#4 and no.#5 until no air flows through the brake caliper bleeding screw. Tight the brake caliper bleeding screw, and put the dust cap in their place.

IMPORTANT NOTE: All the time check the brake fluid level in the brake system reservoir, and fill up if necessary!

7. Push the brake pedal firmly for 4 - 5 times to the floor, and maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor, engine idling.
8. Continue with the rear left wheel. Another person remove the dust cap and loose the brake caliper bleeding screw until the brake pedal goes to the floor. At this moment maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor, engine idling, and tight the brake caliper bleeding screw. Use a plastic hose: one end connected to the brake caliper bleeding screw, and another end inside a recovery bottle for used brake fluid.
9. Repeat steps no.#7 and no.#8 until no air flows through the brake caliper bleeding screw. Tight the brake caliper bleeding screw, and put the dust cap in their place.

IMPORTANT NOTE: All the time check the brake fluid level in the brake system reservoir, and fill up if necessary!

10. Push the brake pedal firmly for 4 - 5 times to the floor, and maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor, engine idling.
11. Continue with the front right wheel. Another person remove the dust cap and loose the brake caliper bleeding screw until the brake pedal goes to the floor. At this moment maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor, engine idling, and tight the brake caliper bleeding screw. Use a plastic hose: one end connected to the brake caliper bleeding screw, and another end inside a recovery bottle for used brake fluid.
12. Repeat steps no.#10 and no.#11 until no air flows through the brake caliper bleeding screw. Tight the brake caliper bleeding screw, and put the dust cap in their place.

IMPORTANT NOTE: All the time check the brake fluid level in the brake system reservoir, and fill up if necessary!

13. Push the brake pedal firmly for 4 - 5 times to the floor, and maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor, engine idling.
14. Continue with the front left wheel. Another person remove the dust cap and loose the brake caliper bleeding screw until the brake pedal goes to the floor. At this moment maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor, engine idling, and tight the brake caliper bleeding screw. Use a plastic hose: one end connected to the brake caliper bleeding screw, and another end inside a recovery bottle for used brake fluid.
15. Repeat steps no.#13 and no.#14 until no air flows through the brake caliper bleeding screw. Tight the brake caliper bleeding screw, and put the dust cap in their place.
16. Now the brakes are bleeded. Check the brake fluid level in the reservoir. Fill up with new brake fluid until "MAX" level is reached. Put back the brake reservoir cap.
17. Test the car brake system. The brake pedal movement no more than 1/3 of total stroke until the floor, when brake pedal is applied. Maximum admissible is 1/2 of total stroke.

Support the vehicle on Jack Stand. Remove the Tire. Loosen the two retaining bolts on the back of the Caliper, 1 on each end, Disconnect the brake line. Install the new caliper and from there you have two options. 1. Let the Caliper hang free and open the bleed valve on the Caliper with the engine running, when you see fluid start to drip from the Bleed valve close the valve then complete the installation. (Make sure you remove the rubber cap from the bleed valve) 2. (This takes two people) Install the pads in the Caliper then install the Caliper. Make sure the brake fluid is topped off. Start the vehicle and pump the brakes 3 to 4 times then hold the brake pedal down. The person on the outside releases the Bleed valve, in this process the brake pedal will go to the floor, Once the Pedal is all the way down close the valve and repeat the process checking to make sure the Fluid is topped off after each attempt. Repeat the process until only fluid comes out when you open the bleed valve. This usually takes 2 to 3 cycles. Once the air is removed from the caliper and brake line top off the fluid one last time and install the tire.

Disk brakes are automatically self adjusting. If you have too much travel in the pedal, bleed the brakes. Let us know if you need the procedure.

Usually the master cylinder was allowed to run low of fluid. Pre bleed the m/c. Aftermarket parts stores sell a kit that helps, it has flexible hoses that screw in where brake lines fasten at m/c, and the other ends go into the reservoir. Pump until good flow and no bubbles, then reattach the brake lines and proceed bleeding. DO NOT let m/c run low of fluid, or start over again.

if you can get the bleeder out replace it otherwise you will need to replace the caliper remember to start at the the line furthest away from the mastercylinder when you bleed them and work your way to the closet