2011 Harley Davidson FLHTK Electra Glide Ultra Limited Logo
A
Anonymous Posted on Jan 07, 2014

Charging system failure low voltage

Volt meter at 11 volts when bike at 1,500 rpm in neutral - engine light and battery light came on during local ride and volt meter stopped working all together, then worked, then went to 11 volts and remains at 11 volts in garage start at 1,500 rpm.

4 Related Answers

czaa

Arnie Burke

  • 7339 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 19, 2009

SOURCE: Voltage Regulator Problem?

u want to chec alternator as well-ther r test u can do so buy a clymer manual which r very detailed-iv seen hd books in library sec 629

Ad

Anonymous

  • 4088 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 25, 2009

SOURCE: Voltage problem when running bike

The voltage regulator should present 13.5 to 14.5 volts at the battery to charge it properly (engine at fast idle). I'm not sure if the V regulator is adjustable or not. If not, then it probably needs to be replaced. The alternator appears to be trying to do it's job, although it may have an open diode or winding if the alternator is 3-phase. An oscilloscope is the best tool to check for all three phases working properly. Good luck!

Anonymous

  • 4565 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 31, 2010

SOURCE: After leaving the last gas

Ok, let's check the charging system. The battery is easy. Take the battery out of the bike and take it to an automotive parts store. Ask them to load test the battery for you. If the battery is over two years old, it could need replacing.

Once you're sure the battery is good and it is FULLY CHARGED, we can test the rest of the system. You'll need a DVOM (digital volt ohm meter) to check the system. With the battery back in the bike, connect the DVOM across the battery. Red meter lead to the positive terminal of the battery, black meter lead to the negative. Put the meter's function selector switch in DC VOLTS, 20 VOLTS or greater. Start the bike and bring it to a high idle. The meter should read 14.5 - 15.0 volts.

Now, to test the stator, follow the wires from your regulator down to where it goes into the engine cases. Disconnect the connector and look into the engine side of it. You'll see two metal contacts down in there. Set you meter's function selector to AC VOLTS, 50 VOLTS or greater. Start the engine and bring it to a high idle. Touch each one of the metal contacts down in the engine side of the connector with a meter probe. It makes not difference since we're measuring AC voltage at this point. The meter should read at least 30 volts.

Now, if the alternator (stator test) does not put out at least thirty volts, the stator is bad and needs to be replaced. If the alternator does check good but not enough voltage at the battery, your regulator may be the culprit. Make sure all connections are clean and tight and that the body of the regulator is grounded good. Recheck the test at the battery. If it still fails, replace the regulator.

Now, I've seen may problems such as your's that are intermittant. In other words, the problem is here on minute and gone the next. I fought that on one bike for over a year until we finally replaced the entire charging system and fixed it. If your bike proves to be doing that, you may wish to consider that option. Fix the thing and be done with it. I wouldn't buy the rotor, just the stator and the regulator.

Good Luck
Steve

Testimonial: "right on with the test procedure. Battery didn't show it was charging. While the stator test showed 30vac, an ohm test showed it was grounded. Thanks "

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Jun 10, 2012

SOURCE: 2005FLHTCI The charging system keeps

I had the same problem with mine, then the volt gage droped to 0...
It had a bad stator

Ad

Add Your Answer

×

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

0helpful
1answer

I have a 01 flht the has a problem with the voltage or charging system the bike volt gauge sits around 11 volts at idle but when driving the bike around 2 thousand rpm the volt gauge reads at 14 volts the...

Sounds close.

The faster the engine's RPMs, the faster the alternator spins, causing the voltage to increase.
The voltage regulator (as the name implies), regulates the voltage coming from the alternator, and going into the electrical system.
Factory instrument gauges are not alway accurate, and more so just gives you a rough idea of what is going on.
A better test is to get a DC voltmeter, and connect to the battery terminals and see what's going on.
At idle, should be about 11-12-13 volts.
When the engine is reved, it should never go above 14-15 volts.
Apr 26, 2014 • Motorcycles
0helpful
1answer

Charged battery, then checked out put was on 11.3 an it should be 14.4 or better where do i start ?

11.3 indicates that your staring out with a low battery.

a fully charged battery should be at least 12.5 volts before you even start the bike.
Once the bike is started the voltage meter should read 12.8 + volts at an idle.
Once the bike is reved to 2000 RPM the voltage meter should read 13.75 - 14.80 Volts.

I would start withe a good battery. Have it load tested before you install it to ensure it is a good battery. Your local auto parts store load test them for free.
0helpful
1answer

I just purchased yesterday and found recall notice in upper tour pack. The battery was low charged over night and am going to check voltage and amps at battery while running today. What are the telltail...

With the battery fully charged, use a DVOM (digital volt ohm meter) to check the output of the charging system. Connect it across the battery, red meter lead to positive, black meter lead to negative. Put the meter's function switch in DC VOLTS, 20 VOLT range. Start the engine and bring it to a high idle of about 1500-2000 RPM. The meter should read 14.5 to 15.0 volts.

If the meter does not read correctly, unplug the regulator where it enters the front of the engine case. You'll be measuring the AC voltage at the engine case side of the plug. Put your meter's function switch in AC VOLTS, 50 VOLT range. Put one meter lead into one metal contact in the plug and the other lead into the other metal contact in the plug. Makes no difference which lead goes to which metal contact. Start the engine and bring it to a high idle. You should read 30 volts or better.

If you do not read 30 volts at the engine, your stator is bad. If you have 30 volts or more at the engine but low voltage at the battery, your regulator is probably bad. This is a simple test and it's accuracy is about 90% or so.

Good Luck
Steve
1helpful
1answer

After leaving the last gas stop returning from a 1700 mile ride, the check eng light came on, the volt meter read 8-9 volts. Shut off the passing lights and the volt meter slowly rose to 11-12 volts. Next...

Ok, let's check the charging system. The battery is easy. Take the battery out of the bike and take it to an automotive parts store. Ask them to load test the battery for you. If the battery is over two years old, it could need replacing.

Once you're sure the battery is good and it is FULLY CHARGED, we can test the rest of the system. You'll need a DVOM (digital volt ohm meter) to check the system. With the battery back in the bike, connect the DVOM across the battery. Red meter lead to the positive terminal of the battery, black meter lead to the negative. Put the meter's function selector switch in DC VOLTS, 20 VOLTS or greater. Start the bike and bring it to a high idle. The meter should read 14.5 - 15.0 volts.

Now, to test the stator, follow the wires from your regulator down to where it goes into the engine cases. Disconnect the connector and look into the engine side of it. You'll see two metal contacts down in there. Set you meter's function selector to AC VOLTS, 50 VOLTS or greater. Start the engine and bring it to a high idle. Touch each one of the metal contacts down in the engine side of the connector with a meter probe. It makes not difference since we're measuring AC voltage at this point. The meter should read at least 30 volts.

Now, if the alternator (stator test) does not put out at least thirty volts, the stator is bad and needs to be replaced. If the alternator does check good but not enough voltage at the battery, your regulator may be the culprit. Make sure all connections are clean and tight and that the body of the regulator is grounded good. Recheck the test at the battery. If it still fails, replace the regulator.

Now, I've seen may problems such as your's that are intermittant. In other words, the problem is here on minute and gone the next. I fought that on one bike for over a year until we finally replaced the entire charging system and fixed it. If your bike proves to be doing that, you may wish to consider that option. Fix the thing and be done with it. I wouldn't buy the rotor, just the stator and the regulator.

Good Luck
Steve
1helpful
1answer

Battery not charging

First, take the battery to an auto parts store and ask them to test the battery for you. Usually this is a free service. You don't want to tear your bike apart and spend a lot of money only to find that it was a bad battery all along so rule that out first.

Next, with a fully charged battery in the bike, connect a DVOM (digital volt ohm meter) to the battery. Connect the red meter lead to the positive post and the black meter lead to the negative post. Put the meter in DC volt, 20 volt or higher scale. Start the enigne and bring it to a high idle. Your meter should build up rather quickly to read, 14.5-14.8 volts or so.

In not, turn the engine off for the time being and look at the left front of the crankcase to find the alternator plug. Disconnect the plug and look at the connectors inside the case. There will be two metal connectors down inside the plug. Take your DVOM and put one lead into each metal connector making sure you don't touch the crankcase with the leads. It makes no difference which lead goes where as we'll be measuring alternating current. Put the meter in AC volts, 50 volt range. Make sure the meter is in AC voltage as the current produced by the alternator is alternating current, not direct current. Start the engine and bring it to a high idle. Your meter should read at least 30 volts or higher.

Do not allow the leads to touch the case. It may be better to get everything set up, then start the bike and stick the probes into the connectors. You don't want to short anything out.

Now, if your read the correct voltage across the battery, your charging system is fine. If you read 11 or less across the battery but good voltage at the engine case, your voltage regulator is probably bad. If you read low voltage at the engine connector, your stator is probably bad.

Good Luck
Steve
3helpful
1answer

Recently having problems with my 2000 Fatty not holding charge. What should stator be putting out on voltage meter? Voltage meter climbs as rpms go up, I would presume that this indicates stator ok? Bike...

First, take your battery somewhere and have it load tested. Fat Boys are tough on batteries as the battery sits in the "horseshoe" oil tank and is subjected to high temperatures due to the hot oil in the tank. Battery life is typically two years although I've seen some go longer and some not last that long. Have the battery tested before you start spending money.

To check the stator, you unplug the regulator at the engine case. Down inside the plug you'll see some electrical connectors. Connect a DVOM (digital volt ohm meter) to these connectors (one lead to eac pin) and put the meter in the 50 volt or higher range AC voltage. This is important that your meter be set to measure AC voltage because at this point, the voltage is indeed an Alternating Current voltage coming out of your alternator. Start the engine and bring it to a high idle. You should be reading over 20 volts AC. The book says that you should read 12-18 volts per 1000 engine RPM. If your engine is turning 2000 rpm, your meter should read 24-36 volts AC.

To test the regulator, first charge your battery to a full charge. Then connect your DVOM across the battery, red to positive, black to negative. Put the meter in the 20 volt DC range. Start the bike and bring it to a high idle. The voltage will start at somewhere around 12.5 volts and climb to about 14.5-15 volts. This would indicate that the regulator MAY be alright.

Now, have you changed any of the lights on your Fat Boy? I've seen people change and add lights to the point where their alternator could no longer put out the current necessary to handle the load. If this is the case, you may need a higher out charging system.

I don't know where you're located but $260 seems quite high for a voltage regulator.
Not finding what you are looking for?

332 views

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Harley Davidson Experts

Arnie Burke
Arnie Burke

Level 3 Expert

7339 Answers

Sean Wright
Sean Wright

Level 3 Expert

2045 Answers

ZJ Limited
ZJ Limited

Level 3 Expert

17989 Answers

Are you a Harley Davidson Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...