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If the saw ran without oil, it may be that the ring(s) have stuck in the piston groove due to metal transfer from the piston into the ring groove. Sometimes you can see this by removing the muffler and looking into the exhaust port--the end result is no/poor compression=no start. If this is the case you will have to disassemble the saw to replace the rings & the piston.
Yes. It is possible the timing chain popped. it is also possible you cracked the block. If there is a Distributor on the vehicle remove the cap and watch the rotor as you crank the motor. If the rotor turns your timing belt should be good or at least attached. If the Rotor doesn't turn when you crank the motor the Timing chain is broken. If the Timing chain appears good do a compression check and see if you have compression on ALL cylinders. If you lost compression on any cylinder you'll need to rebuild the engine. It could be bad rings, a broken Crank shaft or connecting rods. Only way to find out is to remove the oil pan and check them all and if you have to replace the rings you'll need to remove the head to get the pistons out to put new rings on. Get a Haynes repair manual on the vehicle so you have illustrations and directions on how to repair everything.
The cylinder must be removed from the crankcase (be sure to clean the exterior of the engine and all parts with compressed air first). That involves removing the carburetor, muffler, cylinder head, and possibly the entire outer case parts. If the piston/ring(s) requires replacement due to scuffing, the cylinder will likely need to be replaced also. Many modern engines use a chrome plated lining for the cylinder interior and any piston damage will affect the cylinder plating also. Use great care when installing the new piston in the cylinder as the ring(s) are quite fragile. Also look for direction marks on the piston as some engines use an offset pin. Be sure to lubricate everything as you go with saw oil to prevent start-up damage. Hope this helps!
what it probably is is you need new piston rings. the oil is splashed up from the crank case onto the bottom of the pistons, which keeps them lubricated. the piston rings are what seal the combustion chamber off from the crank case and when they go bad, oil gets into the combustion chamber and is burned.
Check the IPL for your saw to see if any special tools are needed.
There are metal piston stops available, when square (almost never) with the piston top these work well, if not square they have been known to punch through the piston. I suggest a length of starter cord or nylon rope be used instead of the piston stop (retain 6" ± so you can remove it). Make sure the piston is near the top of the cylinder before feeding the cord or it can fall through the exhaust port and damage the piston as it rises.
It is probably a left handed thread (tighten it to loosen it). Let us know how it worked for you. GL
i dont know this saw,but 50 to1 is a heavier mix of oil and it wont hurt your saw to run it ,worst case it will oil foul your spark plug.if that happens just switch to your 40 to 1 ratio. but if you start at 40 to1 and your wrong you will starve the motor of oil and in time cause damage ti the cylinder ,piston ,rings,and barrings
Don't use a rubber mallet! It shouldn't take that much force! Make sure the piston ring is compressed enough so it will fit inside the cylinder as you slide it down over the piston. Be very delicate! It doesn't take much effort to break a piston ring or screw up the crank bearings. Just take your time and make sure everything is lined up and extremely clean.a thin coat of 2-stroke oil on the piston, rings, and inseide the cylinder will help protect everything - just make sure you're working in a clean environment where there's no dirt and grime for the thin coat of oil to attract.
the 455 rancher chain saw is a two cycle motor.Two cycle motors do not have valves in them.Stihl in another matter.Take the muffle off the saw and look to see what the piston rings look like.If they are brownish in color then you need to thak the cylinder head off and clean the piston and rings. usualy it is carbon and old oil.Hogwash works very well in this situation.Use only your hand to rub the hogwash around the piston.Even thought this doesn't sound like your problem.The trouble will be in the car. itself.The gas that was in the carb is on longer.You will need to replace the diaphram and gaskets in the carb.Once you do this the fuel will get to the cylinder.and the saw will fire.Make sure that you ran the oil mixture on the heavy side for the first tank of fuel.This will oil the bearings down in side the crank case.they way be gummed up from sitting for so long.After the first tank of fuel is used up then use regular mixture.
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