Question about 2007 Peugeot Speedfight Motorsport 50

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17.5 jetting speedfight 3

I have have just bought an installed a 17.5 carb, it came with a 95 main jet. my original main jet in my old carb started at 54 and then i changed the exhaust so put in a 60. i put the 60 in the new carb and am wondering if this is correct the bike rides as before no performance gain. i have kept my standard filter as the noise was to much with a tnt open air filter with no gain so reverted back to stock filter. i have changed the clutch springs and torque springs. there are no other perfomance mods yet. maybe someone with the same bike and mods will understand if im correct with jet sizes. my exhaust is a leovince touring so the best performance pot but not load either. this is why i went to a 60 not a 62 jet as performance was diff.

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  • 6 Answers

Check your ignition system as there is usualy a restricter built in.

Posted on Apr 11, 2017


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  • Peugeot Master
  • 60,751 Answers

Hi, Anonymous for more information about your question and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Carburator Theory and Tuning
PEUGEOT SpeedFight 3 Workshop Manual
Browse Product Categories
PEUGEOT Speedfight 2 Owner Manual

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at

Posted on Apr 04, 2017


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6ya staff

  • 2 Answers


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Posted on Jan 02, 2017


  • 89 Answers

SOURCE: honda xr600r cutting out at 3/4 & full throttle

when you put on a new air filter you have to rejet the carb in order for the air/fuel mixture to be correct,because with a aftermarket air filter it is allowing more air in than before and not enough fuel. as the piston speeds up upon exceleration the air is not getting burnt off into exhaust because you do not have enough fuel in the mix

Posted on Jun 03, 2009

iain kelly

  • 311 Answers

SOURCE: 81 xj650lh midnight maxim black exhaust, sooty plugs keep fouling

hi,fairly common problem with modified exhaust,start with the pilot screws,turn right in untill the screws are firm then back out 1 and 3/4 turns,this is a fairly standard rule of thumb that will get most things going,as far as the jets go,the original size would be a good starting point,but you should only need to go up 10-15 sizes to compensate for the exhaust mods(ie stock might be 127 may need to go to138 or 140 etc),the other thing that i would recommend is getting hold of a set of damped carb balancers these will enable you to get the mixtures and carb balance dead right,they are relitively cheap and easy to use and will have paid for themselves the first time you use them.(i regularly get 4-8 sometimes 10-11 extra hp over stock by tuning the carbs up properly).hope this helps

Posted on Jul 06, 2009

iain kelly

  • 311 Answers

SOURCE: Which size Jet Kit for 800 Vulcan Classic?

general rule of thumb is to go up about 10 jet sizes,unfortunately it is a bit of trial and error,and you may have to swap out diferrent sizes to get the bike running right,(jets are quite cheap though)but first step about 10 sizes from standard,your local dealer should be able to tell you what jets are in it and supply replacements,if you change to a hgh flow aftermarket air filter you may have to change jet sizes again as changing the filter may effect the mixture ratio in the carbs,,hope this helps

Posted on Jul 10, 2009


  • 115 Answers

SOURCE: 2000 Honda CR125 stock jet.

Here is a website to for different jets for the carb.

Pull out the jet and it should have a number on it.

Now you can use this site to determine which jet you need.

This page will help you determine which jet you need for your area.

I hope this helps

Posted on Aug 08, 2009


  • 3 Answers

SOURCE: What jet sizes???? GS750.

i put 115 main jets in my 77 ge 750 and it will run but was told to jump up to 140 with pobs and 4into1 pipe (SM6) race pipe at the low side run 130 main and leave the stock pilot in. i rorde mine from NE to SD roude trip about 1300 miles got about 62 MPG with 115 jets jumping up to the 140 will drop the MPG but lets be real im not looking for MPG. hope this will help.

Posted on Nov 18, 2010

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1 Answer

Suzuki impulse GSX400X

Here is specs for those carbs
I.D. No. - 04A10
Bore - 27 mm
Idle r/min - 1300+/-100 r/min.
Fuel level - 9.0+/-0.5 mm
Float height - 20.5+/-1.0 mm
Main jet - #94
Main air jet - 1.2 mm
Jet needle - 5B10-3rd
Needle jet - 2.60 mm
Throtlle valve - 11.0
Pilot jet - #34
By-pass - 0.8,0.8,0.8 mm
Pilot outlet - 10.8 mm
Valve seat - 2.5 mm
Starter jet - GS1 #60, GS2 #54
Pilot screw - PRE-SET (2 turn out)
Pilot air jet - 1.35 mm
Throttle cable play - 0.5 - 1.0 mm
Choke cable play - 0.5 - 1.0 mm

Aug 27, 2014 | Motorcycles

1 Answer

17.5 carb jetting speedfight 3 rs ac

the carby would have had the correct jet installed for the venturi size
It would have been better to leave it at that and then cut back in jet size
air filters do not affect performance unless they are blocked and it is a fact the so called high performance air filters let larger dust particles through and that cause a shorter engine life
mufflers can be changed to get better performance but it can be a trade off for noise
price is no guarantee of better so consider going to a bike shop that has a bike dyno and asking what muffler make and design will give the best increase in performance then have the bike tuned to get max performance from the muffler and new carby
the real way to get performance is not by guessing but by running the bike on the dyno so all performances can be graphed and improved upon

Mar 24, 2017 | Motorcycles

1 Answer

17.5 carburetor jetting speedfight 3 AC RS

Hi, Gavin nice novella if you have changed your fuel delivery system, air filter size or flow rate, mufflers or exhaust system or a significant change in altitude your carburetors need re-tuning and if your fuel system (gas tank, filters, fuel valve and carburetor) is contaminated with ethanol sludge, varnish, rust, dirt, water etc. or your bike has been sitting for months or years without running these components must be "PROPERLY" cleaned and reassembled "CORRECTLY" before any adjustments can be made. Tuning your carburetor is fairly simple once you understand the basic principals. You engine is a simple airbox sucking air in and blowing it out, it is finely tuned at the factory for maximum performance once you upset that delicate balance by changing air filters, camshafts or exhaust systems your performance may go down the and the engine may run poorly, you need to compensate the air-fuel mixture in the carburetor in order for the engine to run smoothly and at peak performance. If you are running multi carburetors you need to sync them first and make sure your air cleaner element is clean and dry for paper elements or lightly oiled for foam and meshed elements and properly installed. Here is how and where you compensate trouble: "TIP" if your engine "BOGS" your not getting enough fuel.
1. Closed to 1/8 throttle is managed by the air screw and pilot/slow jet.
2. 1/8 to 1/4 throttle is managed by the air-screw, pilot/slow jet, and throttle slide.
3. 1/4 to 1/2 throttle is managed by the throttle slide and jet needle.
4. 1/2 to 3/4 throttle is managed by the jet needle, needle jet, main jet, and air jet.
5. 3/4 to wide open throttle is managed by the main jet and air jet.
6. Wide open throttle is managed by the main jet.
If you are running lean, spark plug electrode color is white, engine runs hot and feels like it is starving for fuel you need to go up on the jet size or move the c-clip down one notch. If you are running rich, spark plug color is black or dark gray, engine runs cool, and bogs down when accelerating you need to go down on jet size or move the c-clip up one notch. When your carburetor is properly tuned for maximum performance your spark plug electrode will be a light tan color like coffee with cream. If you prefer fuel economy over performance you can go down on main jet sizes until a satisfactory level of lower performance is acceptable versus MPH, your spark plug color will be whiter and your engine will run warmer. These tuning adjustments will only make improvements if your intake and exhaust system have no air leaks or sealing issues and the entire electrical system is in proper working order and you have no mechanical issues. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the websites below. Good luck and have nice a day.
Life On 2 Wheels
50cc GET Carburetor Basic Tuning
PEUGEOT SpeedFight 3 Workshop Manual
Browse Product Categories
PEUGEOT Speedfight 2 Owner Manual

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at

Mar 24, 2017 | Motorcycles

1 Answer

2010 ktm 65 bike hesitates when you give it throttle but when it hits the power band it takes off.

It sounds like moving the main needle clip position may solve this if it's jetted properly. Remove the slide assembly from the top of the carb, pull back the spring and remove the cable. There will be a retainer clip that holds the e-clip and the needle in the slide. Remove that clip and the needle will slide out. Note the original position of the e-clip on the needle, remove it and move it down 1 position. This will raise the needle in the main jet and richen the mixture on acceleration. Reinstall and repeat adjustment until satisfactory acceleration is achieved.
If moving the needle position doesn't solve it, a larger main jet is required. Put the e-clip back to it's original position. Remove the main jet thru the 17mm drain bolt in the bottom of the carb, note the size stamped on it and get the next larger size. A selection of main and pilot jets a couple sizes up and down from stock is always handy to keep around with the 2-strokes as they are sensitve to temperature change.
Always check the condition of the spark plug when making jetting changes. Start with a fresh plug and run it for 10 min at normal riding RPM. Tan is good, black is rich and white is too lean. A lean condition is really bad and must be corrected immediatly. Good luck!

Jun 08, 2011 | KTM 300 EXC Motorcycles

2 Answers

I took the stock air filter off my 2000 Suzuki Katana 600 and put a K&N air filter in it, when i accelerate it stalls out a bit before kicking up to speed. a slight lag then go.

Changing to a K&N air filter changes the air/fuel mixture for your bike, and you're probably hitting an overly lean spot before things start to even out. For bikes still running carburetors, which I think you have, you can compensate for this by changing to a slightly larger idle jet. Your main jet is probably fine (it's kicking in after the lag); it's the crossover from idle to main jet that's causing the flat spot.
Talk to your dealership parts counter to get recommendations about jet settings. They may suggest, for example, to keep your existing idle jet and go with a different main jet. Expect to try a couple different setups to find one that works best for your bike and your riding style. I would highly recommend keeping your original jets, though, in case you ever go back to the stock air box.

May 09, 2011 | 2000 Suzuki GSX 600 F (Katana)

1 Answer

My 2008 ttr 230 has been started in months. i purchsed a new battery and it still would not start.

The battery is only the beginning. The carbs are most likely gummed up. The idle jets are plugged, and the old gasoline in there wouldn't help. Your idle jet, (pilot jet, whichever name you prefer) is plugged up in your carburetors. If the bike was stored improperly, or old/dirty gas was in the tank, these jets get plugged up pretty easily. The idle jet is where your bike pulls gas while it has a closed throttle position. Its the smallest jet in the carbs and makes it hell to start a bike when they are plugged up. Good thing for you, is that you only have one carb, and it is very easy to take out and clean. The jets are under the BOTTOM cover of the carbs. You will see the main jet is on a Taller part of the carb and the idle jet is next to that. Here is a picture to help you, It isn't the exact carb, I borrowed this pic from another website. Number 1 is the pilot jet, 2 is the main jet and 3 is where the fuel comes into the carb. This is your float valve. This has to be clear of stuff too or it won't shut off properly and you will leak gas from the carbs. So get yourself a can of carb cleaner and start spraying!


Nov 17, 2010 | 2002 Yamaha TT-R 225

1 Answer

Just had carbs rebuilt and jeted 110 in front 120 in back,has good idle but fall flat on face unber a load

Stock jetting mains F/carb#90 R/carb#100
When you changed to larger jets your fuel to air ratio changed causing a richer mixture of fuel and out of balance fuel to air ratio=loss of power and performance.
you should have started if you where going experiment with jetting in increments like 95 for the front 105 for the rear, or just left the factory settings alone and maybe depending on what you want to
achieve a little more mid range performance shimmed up the needles.

May 27, 2010 | 1999 Suzuki VZ 800 Marauder

1 Answer

How to install a new jet kit with my new pipes

You can change the jets in your Keihen carb without removing the carb. First remove the air cleaner cover, air filter element, and the backing plate. There are four screws holding the float bowl onto your carb, turn the petcock to the off positon (if it has an off positon) and remove the four screws and drop the float bowl down.

You will be able to see them main jet very easily. It's screwed into the main jet holder and extends down to the very bottom of the float bowl when the bowl is on the carb. Simply screw the old jet out and screw the new one in.

The slow jet will not be visible directly. It's up inside a hole just to the rear of the main jet holder. You may need a mirror to find it. Once you've found it, use a narrow bladed screwdriver to remove the old one and install the new one. Replace the fuel bowl, air cleaner assembly. Check for proper operation of the throttle before starting the engine.

Now, if you jet kit contains a different slide needle, you'll have to remove the carb to replace this. Once you get the air filter assembly off the carb, loosen the throttle cables at the throttle grip and disconnect them at the carb. Then disconnect the fuel line and the vacuum line from the carb. Pull the carb out of the intake manifold.

To replace the needle, remove the four screws that hold the top cover on the carb. One screw is longer than the rest, remember where it goes. Carefully remove the cover. There is a large low tension spring under the cover and a rubber diaphragm. You do not have to remove the slide to change the needle but it's a lot easier if you do. Lift the diaphragm out of the groove around the top of the carb. Carefully. lift the slide out of the carb. Down inside the slide, you'll see a plastic needle retainer. Take this out and lift the needle out of the slide. Install the new needle as instructed with your jet kit. Reassemble in reverse order being very careful to insure the diaphragm is properly seated in it's groove around the top of the carb. If not, you will puncture the diaphragm and then have to replace it. It ain't cheap either, Sometimes you have to use just a bit of grease to get the diaphragm to stay in the groove.

While you've got it down this far, you need remove the anti-tamper plug that covers the idle mixture adjustment screw in the event it hasn't been removed previously. Turn the carb upside down and locate a round plug just on the engine side of the float bowl. It is about 1/4" in diameter. Using a small drill bit, carefully drill though this plug. It isn't thick and you just want to drill through the plug, If you put too much pressure on the drill, you will damage the screw beneath it. Just barely drill through the plug. With the plug drilled, insert a small self tapping sheet metal screw. Use a pair of pliers to work the plug out of it's hole. Now, you'll see the idle adjuster screw. Carefully turn it inwards until it seats while counting the turns. Once the adjuster barely seats, turn it back out three complete turns. This is your starting point.

Reinstall the carb with a new carb to manifold seal. Check for the proper throttle operation before starting the engine. Start the engine and allow it to warm up a bit. Adjust the idle mixture screw for smoothest idle and the throttle stop screw so that the engine idle speed is about 1000-1200 RPM.

Good Luck

Apr 11, 2010 | 2003 Harley Davidson FXD Dyna Super Glide

1 Answer

Changing carb jets

the main jets just unscrew out use a socket if you can but dont over tighten when refitting.undo the 4 screws holding the carb bowl on and the jets are straight in view.

May 26, 2009 | 1995 Yamaha FZX 750 (Not in Europe)

1 Answer


  • First I would go get stock plugs from the dealer. Plugs with incorrect heat range can cause overheating.
  • Drain the oil and replace the oil filter. Refill the crankcase with fresh oil. Also be sure exhaust gasses are getting through the exhaust pipes okay
  • Check the spark timing. and clean or replace the air filter.
Your mechanic probably installed carb rebuild kits in each carb. This is good but the correct main jets may not have come in the generic kits he bought. Too small a main jet can cause overheating. Pull the float bowl of whichever carb is easiest to get to. Remove the main jet and look to see what size it is. There will be a number i.e. 3.0 stamped on the jet. Call your dealers parts department and ask what size main jet is stock. The smaller the number, the smaller the jet. Re-jet the carbs if needed.

I hope you can rate this solution as a "FixYa". Thanks!

Mar 17, 2009 | 2001 Suzuki GSX 600 F (Katana)

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