Bolt to short for jack shaft to bolt back to starter on FXDL 2003 model

Steve Allison

• 5569 Answers
• Posted on Aug 20, 2008

SOURCE: bolt torque specs

I have used Haynes service manuals for (hate to admit it) many decades and I recommend you check to see if this one:

http://www.amazon.com/Haynes-Toyota-Automotive-Repair-Manual/dp/1563923513

doesn't cover your engine.

I have found darned few 'holes' in their coverage.

Auto parts stores carry these and I suspect that even though sealed, the sales people will not give you too hard of a time if you explain you want to insure you are getting what you need.

Haynes is not the same as it was 20 years ago before they were acquired by Chilton but the price/utility ratio is still pretty good.
Mostly I'm annoyed by the move to cheaper paper (newsprint)that is fussier, picks up dirt, tears more easily than the better paper of yore.

SOURCE: change rotory blade on craftsman 917377794

This is a nice mower, it has a Honda engine. The blade bolts onto a "blade brake clutch" which is why you see 3 bolts. Removing the two outer bolts should release the blade. Normally these bolts are about 1/4" to 5/16" diameter at the threads, and have split washers to prevent them from accidentally coming loose from vibration or impact.

Here's the steps I use when replacing the blade:

1. Pull the spark plug wire off the spark plug.
2. Lay the mower over on it's side (gas filler cap should be up, so whichever side allows the gass filler cap to end up on the high side of the engine).
3. Find a wrench that properly fits the blade bolts.
4. If right-handed; wearing a garden or protective work glove on the left hand, grasp the blade.
5. Unbolt both bolts by turning in a counter-clockwise direction (left circular direction).
6. Remove the bolts being sure not to lose the locking washers.
7. Pull the blade off the blade mount (sometimes a light tap is necessary to loosen the blade from the blade mount).
8. Replace the blade with the exact Sears part number (diagram and parts list attached below).
9. Thread the bolts back on using your fingers to get them started - don't force them if they start to bind or you'll cross-thread them; bad thing).
10. Snug the bolts down tight, sufficient to compress the locking washers flat.
11. Don't overtighten, they need to be tight, but if you use a long handle wrench or ratchet drive you can cause them to break or fail while the balde is spinning, another bad thing. Tighten them snug assuring the washers compressed flat.
12. Turn the mower back upright onto its wheels.
13. Replace the spark plug wire back onto the spark plug.
14. Leave sit for 30 minutes before starting to assure the oil has returned level in the engine before you attempt to start the engine.

SOURCE: which way do you turn the crankshaft pulley bolt to loosen it?

It turns left (counterclockwise) to remove. An impact wrench is best if you can get one on it.

If you don't use an impact wrench, you may need to somehow keep the crank from turning when you loosen the bolt.

One way is to pull the belt tighter to put more tension on the crank pulley.

There are other creative ways I've used. If you have any trouble let me know.

SOURCE: How do I replace starter on 2000 sportster

You must remove the primary to reach 2 bolts holding in the starter. This is a pretty big job, first completely loosen the clutch cable, remove the derby cover, disconnect clutch cable, remove inspection cover, drain primary fluid, loosen primary chain tension er, remove shifter linkage, remove primary cover ( use a Styrofoam board to place bolts in order due to different lenghts), remove ramp and ball assembly ( need snap ring plyers), using a tool to lock the clutch basket and primary drive remove bolts( I don't remember which but one removes left hand), you now can reach the bolts holding in the starter. As I stated this is a pretty big job and you should have a manuel before starting, if you don't want to buy one you can check one out at most library's. Reverse to install and remember LOCK TITE everything.

Gar

• 384 Answers
• Posted on Jun 30, 2009

SOURCE: have devolped a small leak on 2005 road king.

Spray it off at the car wash to remove all the oil , then spray Right Guard (Yes, that Right Guard) on the area of the leak. It will show up, but you may not be able to see exactly where. There are a couple spots where it can leak. The jackshaft oil seal, as you said, transmission output shaft (clutch shaft) on the trans itself, the inner primary seal where the trans shaft runs thru, the engine sprocket shaft oil seal, inner primary O-ring, the bolts that hold the inner primary to the engine/trans, the primary chaincase gasket and the drain plug. Hopefully when you get it apart, you will see which seal is leaking. If not, replace them all. Still want to fix the leak? LOL