I just put a new clutch kit in a new oem basket and clutch wont engage if i tighten up clutch cable too much it sticks how can i get the clutch to engage?
yea ive put it back together the way it was supposed to it needed a basket becuz it had been broken and im running 15-40 oil in ityea ive put it back together the way it was supposed to it needed a basket becuz it had been broken and im running 15-40 oil in it
super tech 15-40 well i try adjusting it so the clutch works but it still doesnt i can start it and push it put it in first and drive it around but the clutch still doesnt worksuper tech 15-40 well i try adjusting it so the clutch works but it still doesnt i can start it and push it put it in first and drive it around but the clutch still doesnt work
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It sounds like the clutch must be incorrectly assembled. No offense meant, is is easy to miss one little thing. Go to the site below and look at the clutch diagram. Note that the assembly begins and ends with a friction plate and that a metal pressure plate goes between each friction plate. You should have 7 metal pressure plates and 8 friction plates.
The clutch outer basket seldom goes bad unless hit with a hammer or a tree. Why did it need to be replaced? Did you compare the new OEM hub to the old one? They may have given you the wrong basket. The tighter the cable the less likely the clutch will engage. You should have 1/4" end play at the handlebar lever. By the way, exactly what oil did you put in the gearbox after replacing the clutch? Okay, this is a good start. Post a comment if you need to get back to me.
Go to the site below where you can see a parts diagram for your specific bike. You will select the actual brand, year, model, etc., once you go to the site. Part numbers and prices are also shown. You can order parts from this site. In the event no price is shown on a particular part, the part is not in stock.
Go to the site below where you can see a parts diagram for your specific bike. You will select the actual brand, year, model, etc., once you go to the site. Part numbers and prices are also shown. You can order parts from this site. In the event no price is shown on a particular part, the part is not in stock. www.babbittsonline.com/pages/parts/viewbybrandand/parts.aspx
Did you compare the new OEM hub to the old one? They may have given you the wrong basket. Do you have 1/4" end play at the handlebar lever? By the way, exactly what oil did you put in the gearbox, what brand and type?
Use 10w40 motor oil in the gear box. Don't use any synthetic oils, oil marked "EC", or oil with "special" additives. Stick with the major brands; Pennzoil, Quaker State, Mobil or Shell.Did you compare the new OEM hub to the old one? They may have given you the wrong basket. Do you have 1/4" end play at the handlebar lever? By the way, exactly what oil did you put in the gearbox, what brand and type?
Use 10w40 motor oil in the gear box. Don't use any synthetic oils, oil marked "EC", or oil with "special" additives. Stick with the major brands; Pennzoil, Quaker State, Mobil or Shell.
Did you compare the new OEM hub to the old one ?????
Again, use 10w40 motor oil in the gear box. Don't use any synthetic oils, oil marked "EC", or oil with "special" additives. Stick with the major brands; Pennzoil, Quaker State, Mobil or Shell. Some oils can swell the fiber pressure plates and the clutch cannot disenguage because of the swelling of the cork on the disc.
When disconnected, does the cable operate freely? Pull the side cover, with the cable connected to the clutch arm, does the handlebar lever operate freely now? Can you see proper motion in the clutch lever at the case? You mentioned sticking eariler. Any sticking now? Look at the parts diagram, part # 92200, washer. There should be one on each side of the basket. Is there? Any chance the clutch pusher #13091-1712 is not mating properly with the #13236-1264 clutch release rod?
Did you compare the new OEM hub to the old one ????? Take some measurements.Did you compare the new OEM hub to the old one ?????
Again, use 10w40 motor oil in the gear box. Don't use any synthetic oils, oil marked "EC", or oil with "special" additives. Stick with the major brands; Pennzoil, Quaker State, Mobil or Shell. Some oils can swell the fiber pressure plates and the clutch cannot disenguage because of the swelling of the cork on the disc.
When disconnected, does the cable operate freely? Pull the side cover, with the cable connected to the clutch arm, does the handlebar lever operate freely now? Can you see proper motion in the clutch lever at the case? You mentioned sticking eariler. Any sticking now? Look at the parts diagram, part # 92200, washer. There should be one on each side of the basket. Is there? Any chance the clutch pusher #13091-1712 is not mating properly with the #13236-1264 clutch release rod?
Did you compare the new OEM hub to the old one ????? Take some measurements.
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Here's how I'd try to fix the clutch:
1.) Try to adjust the cable at the handlebar; usually there's a little bid of clutch lever travel (like 1/4"-1/2") before the clutch disengages. For right now, adjust the clutch so that there isn't any play and the adjustment all the way out. If the clutch disengages the transmission, then you know you have to fiddle with the cable to get it adjusted properly.
2.) The clutch plates could be sticking: here you'd have to take the clutch cover off and get to the clutch. Remove the clutch (usually an impact is ideal for removing the clutch holding nut. Take the clutch apart (steels and clutches), make sure they aren't sticking together. Then dip the clutches in oil, then reassemble.
3.) Sometimes the clutch basket (holds all of the clutches and steels in a "basket") gets grooves in it. These grooves prevent the clutch from disengaging. Sometimes you can file the clutch basket fingers down to remove the grooves. Alternatively, if the clutch basket fingers are really worn, you may have to replace the clutch basket.
Typically, when your in the clutch side of the engine case, I'd examine 2 and 3 (above) at the same time.
There's no exact spec cause you set the clutch to the way you like it. With the clutch cable adjusted loose. ( the cable adjuster at the clutch handle backed up so thiers alot of free play at the handle). Lossen the lock nut at the clutch pushrod and screw in the adjuster screw till it tightens up. If the handle losses all of the freeplay them back up the cable adjustment even more You may find another adjuster wher the cable enters the engine case. Reconizing the only reason you need to do this is because your putting on a new cable or have installed a new clutch, If you did'nt do any of these repairs the problem that your trying to correct may be a sticking and binding cable. This is a common problem and you pull in the clutch and it's hard to do and you let the clutch out and it slips and engages badly,, With the cable removed ( or loosened up good) It should move very easily in the housing. if it doesn't remove it and move it back an forth all the way and see if it'll loosen up putting it in solvent or rust buster working it back and forth with a good cable lube in it till it works real smooth with little or no resistance. If you can't getr it to work smoothly you need a new cable. with the cable installed loosly turn the screw in till it tightens up and then pull the clutch handle. if the cable is still loose tighten it up till theiers just a little free play ( almost none) This adjusts the cable. Then back out the clutch rod screw trying the handle as you turn the screw till you get a noticeable amount of freeplay at the handle. ( 1/4-1/2 inch) . once completed put the bike in gear and with the bike off and in gear pull the cluch in and rolol the bike slowly letting the cluch out to see where it engages. if it seems good start it up and if it feels good and does'nt grind the gears and starts moving at a reasonable space off the grip, lock all the adjustments and take it for a ride. If the cable acts up any get a new one.
I had a Tri Z, and every time it sat the clutch stuck. I'm not exactly sure why your clutch won't disengage when you tighten the springs-I do know that the springs MUST be tightened to where the bolts bottom out for it to work. I do also suspect that running it with the springs loose has burned what was left of the clutch. The basket and inner hub grooved could be an issue. It would depend on how bad it's notched. They will normally operate fine with some notching. Filing down the basket is not recommended-you would have to take the exact same amount of material off each finger of the basket for it to work properly. I've done this only to get it running while waiting for a new basket and drive hub to arrive.
The main thing now is to get the clutch to disengage w/ the lever. Take the pressure plate off, and watch for the lifter to mave about 1/8" when you pull the lever. If it's not moving, or is too high, remove the lifter, the round ball behind it and the engaging rod out of the hollow clutch shaft. A small magnet tool works well.It may have gotten past the cam on the cable end of the system. With the rod out, turn the cable actuating lever back to the end of it's slack and reinstall the rod,ball and lifter. You should be able to turn the cable actuating rod with your fingers and watch the lifter come up. You can feel when the rod is in the right position on the cable arm-it should bottom out and lift within the working rotation of the lever. So if you get that working, put what's left of the clutch back together, tighten the springs and make sure it works.You will at the very least need to replace the friction plates in the clutch. The steels should be checked for warpage on a flat surface. If you can get .002 feeler gauge under the warp it's too far gone and they should be replaced as well. Most Yamaha clutches have a first and last friction plate that's a different part number when you order them, be sure to check that when replacing the plates.I'd get new springs as well, they're cheap. Good luck!
could be a few different things,But always start with the small( inexpensive )first and work your way up...#1 check your clutch cable adjustment to be sure its engaging and disengaging properly(clutch cables stretch over time and need replaced or adjusted)...but if you have never done any clutch work to the bike(and you ride it like i do mine) #2. it probably needs new clutch plates and #3 maybe clutch basket from your description of the problem. the clutch plate fibers wear down over time(they are like brake pads and wear out).and the plates wear groves in the clutch basket and interfear with the plate movement...hopefully its just your cable..hope this helps..
What kind of oil is in the crankcase? Wet clutches take a sprcial oil, noy motor oil. If oil is correct, Is the cable and release levers fully disengaging the clutch? There is an adjustment for the rod inside the clutcjh hub . That could be short stroking.
hi m8,, wen u put spring bolts and springs on,, u must do them right up ,, untill the spring is completly comprest,, ,untill the spring bolt wont do up any more,,cheers
yea ive put it back together the way it was supposed to it needed a basket becuz it had been broken and im running 15-40 oil in it
super tech 15-40 well i try adjusting it so the clutch works but it still doesnt i can start it and push it put it in first and drive it around but the clutch still doesnt work
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