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Bad design of the trike. There should be no driveshaft movement between the engine and final drive that would allow it to move off the splines. Guessing it is something to do with excessive suspension movement.
classic kawasaki hydraulic lock symptoms...basically a combination of sticking fuel tap plunger and sticking float valve on one of your carbs causes a cylinder to fill up with fuel. As this will not compress when the engine turns over the cylinder then locks up with a clonk. Easily confirmed by checking the oil as this will be contaminated with fuel...the level will have gone up and there will be a smell of petrol when you remove the filler cap. Unfortunately the commonest result of hydraulic lock is a bent conrod requiring an engine rebuild to replace.
Uncouple the unit where the large locking knob is and check the mating connection. Turn the string head and note if the driveshaft is rotating where you uncoupled it. For the top driveshaft this is more difficult as it only turns once the clutch is engaged and this requires engine speed to do so. So if you attempt to turn just the upper drive shaft where it was uncoupled it will spin freely (unless the clutch has malfunctioned). If you have a unit that doesn't have the connecting link, then disassembly will be required at the front engine cover to test to see if the driveshaft has broken. Remove the four screws (Torx) in the handle that bolt to the front engine cover. You will also then need to remove the throttle cable off the throttle shaft lever on the carburetor. If the ON/OFF switch is in the handle, then the wires from it may or may not have enough slack to allow you to completely remove the trimmer handle off of the clutch drum. If not, you will need to loosen the front engine cover and remove any wires that go there (to the coil). Mark the location of any wires you remove. The top end of the driveshaft should be inside the clutch drum.
The oil level should be in the center of the window.
Use 10w40 motor oil in the gear box. Don't use any synthetic oils, oil marked "EC", or oil with "special" additives. Stick with the major brands; Pennzoil, Quaker State, Mobil or Shell.
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