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Hey Anon,
First, make sure the clutch is adjusted correctly..This video is a basic tutorial.. use it for a guide BUT DO the steps as I TELL YOU..
1. Loose the cable adjuster at the handle bar.. run the adjuster in - (give it as much slack as you can)
2. The clutch actuator lever on the engine case should be able to move about 8mm (.325") before it starts to disengage (gets hard to move)..
3. Adjust the cable at the bottom adjustment to take up any slack at this point.. ..you MIGHT/should be able to feel some (NOT FULL TENSION) clutch disengagement in the handle bar (clutch) lever at this point.. IF YOU CAN'T - tighten the cable at the bottom adjustment ONE round at a time until you can feel (a small amount) tension and have at least/about 12mm (.48") max. of play in the lever (BETWEEN THE LEVER AND THE MOUNT when YOU START TO FEEL TENSION... - NOW - in the clutch lever (handle bar).. when you can feel tension in the lever... >> you should start adjusting the lever to have (at least) approximately 1/8" - (3mm) of play (gap) between the lever and mount.. when you have this set correctly, the clutch adjustment question is eliminated. If the adjustment has not helped and you had to do A LOT of adjusting. you need to replace the clutch cable.. and do this adjustment process again. NOW adjustment is NOT part of your problem. If this fixes your problem GREAT!!
.. If not.. now.. we have to move internally..The next issue will be grooves worn into the arms of the clutch basket be the fiber clutch plate ears..(see picture) (the ones that keep the plates stationary when you shift to help disengage the clutch). Also check the actuator arm (see picture below) for wear..
Ok.. if you have gotten this far and everything seems good, reinstall AFTER YOU HAVE METICULOUSLY CLEANED THE BASKET!! The clutch should be working now.
Congrats!! If you need professional port work contact me.. Suzuki RM80 250 89 95
The adjustment handle snaps down to lock. If the handle is coming loose, I recommend replacing the handle. You can also go to standard bar bolt set up if you prefer. Check with your Husqvarna dealer for part numbers.
Between the handle and the connection to the drive system, look for adjustment screw or nut and screw on cable. Maybe even check the spring tension, if handle is spring loaded and the spring is stretched it will not engage drive system. If no adjustment to be found then you must get new belt. Good Luck...
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This will be the basic instruction for most common
saws. Check that the chain brake is in disengaged position by moving the front
hand guard towards the front handle if the saw is equipped with a chain brake
on the handle. Loosen the bar nuts on the clutch cover. Loosen tension screw or
other adjuster (thumbscrew) to allow the bar to be moved toward the engine.
Some saws have this tension adjustment built into the bar. This will provide
enough slack in the chain to able to reinstall it. It may be necessary to
remove the side cover to gain access to the clutch/gear assembly on the side of
the engine if the chain also jumped the gear here. Remove the cover, inspect
for any debris or other obstructions in this area. If none, replace the chain
back over the drive gear and in the bar groove all the way around the bar. It
may be necessary to turn the bar adjuster screw more to provide enough slack in
the chain to do this. Once the chain is in place reinstall the cover and bar
lock nuts. Snug up the nuts but do not tighten these. Turn the bar/chain
adjuster screw to tighten the chain on the bar (take up slack). I usually
tighten to a point where there is no slack between the chain and the bottom of
the bar and I can still turn the chain easily around the bar by hand. With
experience you will get the feel for this chain tension. Once the chain is
properly tensioned, tighten the bar lock bolts/ nuts on the side cover.
Some Poulan Pros have an adjuster screw on the front of the engine case right beside the bar, some have a tool less adjuster on the clutch cover, and some have a slot in the bar for adjusting the chain tension.
Hello Michael;
If your saw is not a 4620????, reply below with the model and serial numbers. Poulan.com/CurrentModels http://www.poulanpro.com/node4043.aspx Type just the model numbers (choose the suffix after the list is provided). I find this easier to understand than the manual: Chain Adjustment
Make sure the chain brake is off (gloves will protest your fingers).
If necessary, loosen the bar nuts that are clamping the clutch cover in place (or whatever holds the clutch cover and bar on). They do not need these really loose - finger tight will do.
Ease the tension adjustment until the chain is obviously loose.
Using one hand, hold the nose of the bar up.
While holding the nose up, adjust the tensioner so that the center of the chain just touches the underside of the bar, add a touch more (1/8 or less).
Continue holding the nose of the bar up & tighten up the bar nuts / bolts / quick-release system.
If you have more questions or need additional help please reply below and I will get back to you. Thank you for using FixYa and Good Luck. HTH Lou
You must loosen the bar a tad. There is a nut on the side which will loosen the bar. Look for an adjuster screw near by. You should be able to move the chain by hand, snug but not tight.
WITH THE SAW OFF OF COURSE!!!!!!! Wear gloves to prevent injury.
Did you get a manual with your new saw? Of course you did. Please review the manual cover to cover before you continue to use this MOST DANGEROUS TOOL in most households. Few other tools are found in the home that will do as much damage as quickly as a chain saw.
There is an adjusting pawl with a screw that does the tightening. The nuts only clamp the bar once the chain is tightened. The adjusting screw is in the plane of the bar. The pawl may have disengaged the bar or may have broken.
Make sure the chain brake is off (gloves will protest your fingers).
If necessary, loosen the bar nuts that are clamping the clutch cover in place (or whatever holds the clutch cover and bar on). They don't need these really loose - finger tight will do.
Ease the tension adjustment until the chain is obviously loose.
Using one hand, hold the nose of the bar up.
While holding the nose up, adjust the tensioner so that the center of the chain just touches the underside of the bar, add a touch more.
Continue holding the nose of the bar up & tighten up the bar nuts / bolts / quick-release system. HTH
Lou Yours is electric there are probably a few differences but the process is very similar.
Look closely at your chain, I'll wager it is the opposite direction. Chain adjustment
Make sure the chain brake is off (gloves will protest your fingers).
If necessary, loosen the bar nuts that are clamping the clutch cover in place (or whatever holds the clutch cover and bar on). They don't need these really loose - finger tight will do.
Ease the tension adjustment until the chain is obviously loose.
Using one hand, hold the nose of the bar up.
While holding the nose up, adjust the tensioner so that the center of the chain just touches the underside of the bar, add a touch more.
Continue holding the nose of the bar up & tighten up the bar nuts / bolts / quick-release system. HTH
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