It's not a button, it's a process that has been the same since 2001. In addition to what is below, there is a list of diagnostic codes as well. Let me know if you don't have them. Too long for this post. Here it is. Thanks goes to Road Captain:
The IM (instrument module) is capable of displaying DTC's (diagnostic trouble codes).
Speedometer Self Diagnostics: The speedometer is capable of displaying and clearing speedometer, tachometer, TSM/TSSM and ICM/ECM Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC).
1- Turn Ignition switch to OFF & Run/Stop switch is to Run.
2- Push odometer reset button in & hold.
3- Turn ignition switch to Ignition and release odometer reset button. Background lighting should illuminate, speedometer needle should sweep its full range and indicator lamps (battery, security, low fuel, check engine and cruise) should illuminate. The word "diag" should then appear.
4 - Push the odometer reset button once and you will see the selection menu "PSSPt" with the first P flashing.
5 - Each letter represents an area of the diagnostics module. The module that is flashing is the one you are going to check. To move from one letter (module) to the next, you push the odometer reset button one time. (from P to S to SP to t and back to P, etc.)
P = ECM/ICM (Electronic Control Module [EFI] / Ignition Control Module [Carbureted)
S = TSM/TSSM (Turn Signal/ Turn Signal Security Module)
SP = speedometer
T = tachometer
6 - To get the DTC within an area of diagnostics, push and hold the odometer reset button in for 5 seconds and release. If there are any DTC's the code will be displayed or the word "none" will appear if there are no DTC's. Push the odometer reset button again to view additional codes if they exist.
7 - Record the codes.
8 - If DTC's are not to be cleared, Press and release the odometer reset button. Part number of module will be displayed.
NOTE: To determine if a code is current or historic, clear the displayed code by pushing in and holding the odometer reset button ( longer than 5 seconds) until 'clear' comes up. Release the odometer reset button. Turn OFF the ignition switch. Run your bike and shut it down then recheck the DTC's again by repeating steps 1 to 9. If the code is current it will reappear.
9 - Press and release the odometer reset button to continue to the next module.
10 - Turn Ignition switch to OFF.
On models not equipped with a tachometer "No Rsp" will appear when the tachometer identifier is selected.
"No Rsp" will also appear if the run/off switch is in the off position when doing this procedure.
Also if the code set is a historic code (not a constant light) after 50 start and run cycles of at least 30 seconds each in duration, the light will extinguish itself as long as the error hasn't occurred again.
If it were a current code, the light would remain lit while running.
SOURCE: Tire Pressure - Harley Davidson Heritage Softtail
30 psi front
36 psi rear (single rider)
40 psi rear (dual riders)
SOURCE: Check engine light is on
you have a trouble code,to get the code push in and hold speedo reset button and turn ignition on speedo will read diag. release button and push again to see the code,make sure you write them down then clear them out by pressing and holding the button.Then after you record them and erase them turn ignition off. then turn ignition on again and off then check the speedo again and if any of the same codes come back it is a current trouble code
SOURCE: harly davidson heritage softtail
many things can cause this ,if you change your seating postion ( lean forward / move backwards does it go away?....
front forks loose at triple tree,
new front / rear tire more aggressive tread than before,
front wheel loose,
worn head bearings,
bent rim,
loose spokes if any,
wrong tire pressures,
loose handle bars
,some new addition to change the handling of the bike , rear seat rest etc,
SOURCE: 2004 harley heritage softtail. Battery dead.
Battery is under seat, either 8 or 10mm wrench to remove terminal nuts. Be careful with cables.
SOURCE: Where is the oil drain plug on 2007 Heritage
Look at the bottom of the oil tank from the right side of the bike. You'll see one hose or pipe that goes downwards towards the back of the transmission. The hose will follow the frame and come out way down low on the backside of and slightly under the transmission. There is a plug in the hose or pipe. Take the plug out and the oil tank will drain.
To change the oil, drain the tank, change the oil filter, refill with three quarts of oil in the tank. You also have oil in your primary that should be changed every 5000 miles or so, and the transmission serviced at the same interval as the primary.
To drain the oil on the primary, there is a drain plug under the primary case at the very rear of the case. Remove this to drain the case. Refill the primary through the derby cover. Fill with oil until the level is just to the bottom edge of the clutch spring. 38-42 ounces of oil. Do not overfill or the clutch will drag and make finding neutral with the engine running impossible to find.
To drain the transmission, there is a small plug on the bottom side of the chrome cover on the right side of the transmission. Remove the plug, drain the tranny, and refill through the large plug that takes a hex key in the chrome cover. 20-24 ounces of transmission lube.
Good Luck
Steve
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